Common problems guide

The most common Atag iC Range problems

The faults most likely to send a Atag iC Range into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

31 documented codes
6 most common
6 DIY-safe checks
0 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
78 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is either too low for the system to run or there is a problem with the sensor that measures it.

What to try first

Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or the digital display.If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop valves to top up the system to 1.5 bar.Ensure the valves are fully closed after topping up and restart the boiler.

Est. cost
£80-220
Parts
Water pressure sensor, Filling loop, Expansion vessel
Full guide for 78
02
101 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

What to try first

Check that your radiator valves are open to allow water to flow.Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.Press the Reset button on the control panel to see if the fault clears.

Est. cost
£150-450
Parts
Circulation pump, Overheat thermostat, Heat exchanger cleaning/flushing
Full guide for 101
03
104 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly through the system, which prevents it from heating up safely.

What to try first

Check that the boiler pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 barEnsure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully openBleed all radiators to remove trapped air bubbles from the pipeworkReset the boiler using the reset button once pressure is confirmed

Est. cost
£120-£350
Parts
Circulation Pump, Water Pressure Sensor, Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)
Full guide for 104
04
108 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low and needs to be topped up.

What to try first

Locate the blue-handled filling link underneath the boiler.Slowly turn the lever(s) to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.Close the lever(s) tightly once the pressure reaches between 1.2 and 1.5 bar.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop, Expansion vessel, Auto air vent
Full guide for 108
05
110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has switched itself off because it detected that the internal water temperature has become dangerously hot or a sensor has failed.

What to try first

Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.Turn the boiler off and back on again once it has had 30 minutes to cool down.

Est. cost
£120-280
Parts
Flow/Return NTC Thermistor, Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump
Full guide for 110
06
111 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally, likely due to a lack of water flow or a blockage.

What to try first

Check that your central heating pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.Ensure all radiator valves and internal stop taps are fully open to allow water to flow.Try resetting the boiler by pressing the 'Reset' button on the control panel.

Est. cost
£120-450
Parts
Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger, Overheat Thermostat
Full guide for 111

on the Atag iC Range

Water pressure sensorFilling loopExpansion vesselCirculation pumpOverheat thermostatHeat exchanger cleaning/flushing

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Atag shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue

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See the full 31-code list for the Atag iC Range