Common problems guide

The most common Atag iR Regular problems

The faults most likely to send a Atag iR Regular into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
13 documented codes
6 most common
4 DIY-safe checks
2 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has shut down because it detected it was getting too hot or a temperature sensor has failed.

What to try first

Check that your radiator valves are open to allow water to flow.Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Wait 15 minutes for the unit to cool down, then press the 'Reset' button.

Est. cost
£90-220
Parts
NTC Temperature Sensor, Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger cleaning
Full guide for 110
02
111 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature and shut down to prevent damage or overheating.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are open to ensure water can flow properly.Ensure the central heating pump is not making unusual grinding noises.Try resetting the boiler using the reset button once the system has cooled down.

Est. cost
£120-£350
Parts
Circulating Pump, Overheat Thermostat, Flow/Return Thermistor
Full guide for 111
03
133 High DIY-safe

Your boiler is failing to light the gas to create a flame, meaning you will not have any heating or hot water until it is reset or repaired.

What to try first

Check that your gas supply is turned on and that other gas appliances (like a hob) are working.Ensure your condensate pipe (the plastic pipe leading outside) isn't frozen if it is very cold weather.Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel once to see if it restarts.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Flame Sensing Probe
Full guide for 133
04
154 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that water is heating up too quickly or moving in the wrong direction, which usually means the water isn't circulating properly through your radiators.

What to try first

Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 barEnsure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully openBleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pocketsReset the boiler once circulation is confirmed

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Circulation pump, Flow and Return thermistors, Main heat exchanger (flushing)
Full guide for 154
05
20 High Engineer

Your boiler has stopped heating because it is unable to accurately measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

Est. cost
£120-£210
Parts
Flow NTC temperature sensor, Wiring harness, Control PCB
Full guide for 20
06
40 High Engineer

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors water returning from your radiators, causing the system to stop running for safety.

Est. cost
£90-160
Parts
Return NTC thermistor, Wiring harness, Control PCB
Full guide for 40

on the Atag iR Regular

NTC Temperature SensorCirculation PumpMain Heat Exchanger cleaningCirculating PumpOverheat ThermostatFlow/Return Thermistor

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Atag shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 13-code list for the Atag iR Regular