Atag S 25CR Fault codes & diagnostics

30 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural Gas 25 kW 2016-present

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22 High 2 Medium 6 Low

All 30 documented codes

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10

Your boiler has lost the connection to the weather sensor outside your home, meaning it cannot automatically adjust your heating based on the outdoor temperature.

Low Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside sensor probe
  • Wiring loom
20

Your boiler is struggling to detect the movement of water inside the system, which is preventing it from heating your home or water safely.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
40

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of the water returning to it, which prevents the system from heating your home properly.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
50

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of your hot water supply, so it has safely switched off your hot water to prevent an error.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
61

Your boiler's internal computer is struggling to communicate with its control panel or thermostat, causing it to stop operating as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control circuit board
  • Wiring harness
  • External thermostat
78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside your heating system is either too low or too high for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Check your pressure gauge, which should ideally read between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, locate the filling loop under the boiler.
  3. Slowly open the valve to let water in until the pressure reaches 1.5 bar, then tightly close it.
  4. If the pressure was above 2.5 bar, you may need to bleed a radiator to release excess pressure.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
105

Your boiler is automatically running a short seven-minute cycle to remove trapped air from the system after it detected low water pressure.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the seven-minute de-aeration cycle to complete automatically
  2. Ensure your system pressure remains between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Monitor the boiler for a few minutes to see if normal operation resumes once the cycle finishes
110

Your boiler has automatically shut down because its internal temperature has risen above safe operating limits.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC sensor
  • Central heating pump
  • Plate heat exchanger
117

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has risen too high, likely due to a faulty filling loop or a system issue.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the radiator bleed valves throughout your home.
  2. Place a cloth under a valve and use a radiator key to slowly release some water until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Check the boiler control panel to see if the error has cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system, so it is limiting its performance to protect itself.

Medium DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible metal or plastic pipe) underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valves on the filling loop to allow cold mains water to enter the system.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (usually between 1.0 and 1.5 bar).
  4. Once the pressure is correct, ensure the filling loop valves are turned firmly off.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor/transducer
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 30
119

Your boiler has detected that a small safety wire or bridge connection inside its control panel has come loose or is missing, preventing the system from starting.

High Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Link wire
  • Control PCB

Related codes

129

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan required to safely vent exhaust gases is failing to turn on.

High Engineer only £200-400

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly unit
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
133

Your boiler has failed to light its flame after several attempts and has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap
  • PCB
151

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot properly regulate the air flow required for safe combustion.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • Control board
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

154

Your boiler is struggling to pump water around your heating system correctly, so it has turned itself off to avoid overheating.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow sensor
  • NTC thermistor
180

Your boiler has successfully completed an automated diagnostic or calibration test and is ready to return to normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check the boiler display to see if the status has returned to standard operation
  2. If the code persists, try turning the boiler off at the fused spur for 30 seconds and turning it back on
  3. Monitor the unit to ensure it resumes heating or hot water production as expected

Related codes

C 20

Your boiler is currently unable to detect the flow of water because the sensor responsible for monitoring it is providing an incorrect reading or has stopped communicating with the system, which will prevent your heating and hot water from working.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Wiring harness
C 40

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of the water returning to it, which prevents the system from heating your home correctly.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
Showing 21–30 of 30
C 61

Your boiler has lost the ability for its internal parts to 'talk' to each other, meaning it cannot start up or function until the communication is restored.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control board
  • Wiring harness
  • Display unit
C 78

Your boiler has detected that there is either too little water circulating through the system or that the internal pump responsible for moving that water has stopped working.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
C1 10

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become dangerously overheated.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Pump
  • Heat exchanger
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

C1 11

Your boiler has detected that the water inside has become dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage or safety issues.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Diverter valve
  • Primary sensor
  • Heat exchanger
c1 18

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-£120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a silver braided flexible hose connected to two valves beneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both valves to allow mains water to enter the system while watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.
  3. Once the needle reaches the green zone (ideally 1.5 bar), tightly close both valves to stop the water flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
C1 29

Your boiler's air circulation system has failed to start properly, so it has shut down to prevent unsafe operation.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB

Related codes

C1 33

Your boiler is failing to light the fuel inside because it cannot detect a flame, causing the system to stop trying for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame rectification probe

Related codes

C1 51

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan responsible for safety and combustion is not spinning at the correct speed, so it has shut down to prevent any risk.

High Engineer only £200-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB
C1 54

Your boiler has detected that hot water is flowing in the wrong direction or circulating much faster than it should be, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Non-return valve
  • Flow and return sensors

Related codes

F1

Your boiler has detected that the concentration of chemical protector added to your heating system to prevent corrosion and freezing is outside of the recommended range.

Low Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • System inhibitor
  • Water quality chemical test kit