Atag S 25CR Fault codes & diagnostics

15 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural Gas 25 kW 2015 onwards Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-310-1841-310-1941-310-2141-310-2341-310-2541-310-2741-310-29
Download the Atag S 25CR manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
12 High 2 Medium 1 Low

All 15 documented codes

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10

Your boiler has lost the connection to the weather sensor outside your home, meaning it cannot automatically adjust your heating based on the outdoor temperature.

Low Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside sensor probe
  • Wiring loom
20

Your boiler is struggling to detect the movement of water inside the system, which is preventing it from heating your home or water safely.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
40

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of the water returning to it, which prevents the system from heating your home properly.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
50

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of your hot water supply, so it has safely switched off your hot water to prevent an error.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
61

Your boiler's internal computer is struggling to communicate with its control panel or thermostat, causing it to stop operating as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control circuit board
  • Wiring harness
  • External thermostat
78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside your heating system is either too low or too high for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Check your pressure gauge, which should ideally read between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, locate the filling loop under the boiler.
  3. Slowly open the valve to let water in until the pressure reaches 1.5 bar, then tightly close it.
  4. If the pressure was above 2.5 bar, you may need to bleed a radiator to release excess pressure.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
110

Your boiler has automatically shut down because its internal temperature has risen above safe operating limits.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC sensor
  • Central heating pump
  • Plate heat exchanger
111

Your boiler has detected that it is getting dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Diverter valve
  • Heat exchanger
  • NTC sensor

Related codes

117

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has risen too high, likely due to a faulty filling loop or a system issue.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the radiator bleed valves throughout your home.
  2. Place a cloth under a valve and use a radiator key to slowly release some water until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Check the boiler control panel to see if the error has cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system, so it is limiting its performance to protect itself.

Medium DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible metal or plastic pipe) underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valves on the filling loop to allow cold mains water to enter the system.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (usually between 1.0 and 1.5 bar).
  4. Once the pressure is correct, ensure the filling loop valves are turned firmly off.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor/transducer
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has detected that a small safety wire or bridge connection inside its control panel has come loose or is missing, preventing the system from starting.

High Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Link wire
  • Control PCB

Related codes

129

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan required to safely vent exhaust gases is failing to turn on.

High Engineer only £200-400

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly unit
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
133

Your boiler has failed to light its flame after several attempts and has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap
  • PCB
151

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot properly regulate the air flow required for safe combustion.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • Control board
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

154

Your boiler has detected that the water is moving incorrectly or failing to circulate properly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow sensor
  • System filter

Related codes

4 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.