Baxi 124 Combi Fault codes & diagnostics

23 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24 kW 2016 onwards Discontinued
GC Numbers 47-077-2547-077-26

Replaced by: Baxi 200 Combi

Download the Baxi 124 Combi manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 22 High

Which version do you have?

The GC number on your boiler's data badge identifies the exact appliance and production years, as recorded in the UK Product Characteristics Database.

GC number Appliance (register name) Produced
47-077-25 124 COMBI 2016–present
47-077-26 128 COMBI 2016–present

All 23 documented codes

Tap any card for details

09

Your boiler has lost communication with the gas control unit, meaning it cannot ignite safely to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve Wiring Harness
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
15

Your boiler is unable to control the flow of gas into the system, which means it will shut down for safety purposes.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

20

Your boiler has lost its ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water used for your radiators, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

28

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
40

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating Return NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

55

Your boiler has lost its internal settings and needs a professional to recalibrate the software so it can safely control the combustion process.

High Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

109

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating valves under the boiler are fully open.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting.
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is too low.
  4. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Flow/Return Thermistors
110

Your boiler has overheated because the water isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

117

Your boiler has switched off because there is too much water pressure in the system, which can put unnecessary strain on the internal seals and components.

Emergency DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop valves (the blue handles or levers under the boiler) are fully closed.
  2. Turn off the boiler and wait for the radiators to cool down.
  3. Bleed a radiator using a radiator key, catching the water in a bowl, until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops back into the green zone (usually between 1 and 1.5 bar).

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (braided silver hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Open the one or two taps on the loop slowly until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Close the taps once the pressure gauge on the boiler reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 23
125

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving around the system correctly, causing it to overheat and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Pump Lead
  • Primary Resistance Thermometer (NTC Sensor)

Related codes

128

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, which means it cannot continue to provide heat or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, check that you have enough credit
  3. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working correctly
  4. Press the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

130

Your boiler has shut down because it detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, which is a safety feature to prevent damage or dangerous fumes.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger
  • Burner Insulation

Related codes

133

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has failed to sense a flame, meaning your heating and hot water will not work.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a gas hob, are working correctly.
  2. Ensure your gas meter has credit if you use a prepay meter.
  3. Check that the condensate pipe (the plastic pipe leading outside) isn't frozen if it is currently cold weather.
  4. Press the Reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrodes
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing lead
  • PCB

Related codes

134

Your boiler is attempting to ignite but cannot detect a flame, meaning it has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. Hold the reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Spark Lead

Related codes

135

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas supply or cannot detect the gas it needs to ignite, which has caused it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a gas hob, are still working correctly.
  2. Ensure your gas meter has credit and the emergency control valve is in the 'on' position.
  3. Attempt to reset the boiler by following the reset procedure in your user manual.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Electrode

Related codes

160

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fan that safely removes exhaust gases, meaning the system has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Fan wiring harness
270

Your boiler is overheating too quickly because water isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensors

Related codes

321

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of your hot water, which usually means the water will either be too cold or not come on at all.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC thermistor sensor
  • Wiring harness connectors

Related codes

384

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame when there shouldn't be one, which stops it from starting up correctly for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 21–23 of 23
E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-90

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose with one or two valves underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the valve(s) slowly to allow cold mains water into the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly and check that the fault code has cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
E128

Your boiler's flame has gone out because air has entered the gas pipes or the gas supply is not steady enough to keep it running.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working properly to confirm gas supply.
  2. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for at least five seconds.
  3. If the fault persists after three reset attempts, you must call a Gas Safe engineer.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe

Related codes

E133

Your boiler is struggling to light because there is either a blockage in the gas supply or air trapped in the pipes, often caused by a recent gas interruption or frozen pipes.

High DIY-safe £80-220

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. Turn on a separate gas appliance, like a hob, to help purge air from the system
  3. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds
  4. Check if the white condensate pipe outside is frozen; if so, thaw it with warm water

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • PCB

16 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.

01 Diagnostic Your boiler has likely overheated or is struggling to move water around the system correctly, causing it to shut down for safety. 02 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to read the outdoor temperature, which may cause it to run less efficiently or use the wrong settings for the weather. 03 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors your hot water temperature. 04 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors your hot water temperature, meaning your water might not get hot enough or could be too hot. 05 Diagnostic Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low. 06 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected that the water returning from your radiators is either too hot or is not flowing correctly through the system. 07 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, which has caused the system to shut down for safety. 10 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected a problem with the temperature sensor that controls your central heating, which may stop your radiators from warming up properly. 12 Diagnostic Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect a steady flame inside the unit to safely heat your water. 13 Diagnostic Your boiler is simply letting you know that it has reached a specific milestone of runtime and is due for a routine service check. 14 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently heating your radiators normally and this is an status indicator rather than a fault code. 16 Status Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensors or control components responsible for providing hot water to your taps. 17 Status Your boiler is currently reporting its status rather than a fault, which usually indicates it is in a specific operating mode or is busy processing a command. 18 Status Your boiler has switched into a specific mode intended for systems connected to solar panels, which usually happens due to a settings error or a sensor detecting an unusual temperature. 19 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected a problem with the internal sensor that monitors the speed and operation of the fan. 154 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected that the water temperature is rising too quickly or is not circulating correctly through the system.