Baxi Eco Compact Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-30 kW 2017-present

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
113 High 8 Medium 8 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 green flash

Your boiler has reached the required temperature and is taking a normal break from firing while it waits for the water to cool slightly.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat is turned up
  2. Wait 5-10 minutes for the boiler to restart automatically
  3. Ensure radiator valves are open
1 red flash

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot too quickly or that water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds and then back to the original setting

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down into a safety mode to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water flow
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically 1 to 1.5 bar on the gauge)
  3. Turn the selector switch to the 'R' (Reset) position for five seconds and then back to its original position

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

3 green flashes

Your boiler has temporarily lost its flame and is trying to restart itself, which might cause your heating or hot water to cut out briefly.

Medium DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is active (e.g. check other gas appliances)
  2. Wait for the boiler to attempt an automatic self-reset
  3. Monitor the display to see if the fault clears or progresses to a solid lockout

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler has tried to light the flame several times without success, so it has shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property.
  2. Verify that your gas meter has credit if you use a pre-payment system.
  3. If it is freezing outside, check that the white plastic condensate pipe leading outdoors is not frozen or blocked.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler is having a temporary glitch in its internal computer system and is attempting to fix itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to automatically reset itself
  2. Check that external controls (thermostat) have power and batteries
  3. Turn the boiler off and back on at the fused spur switch

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External Control/Thermostat Receiver

Related codes

4 red flashes

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of the flue, is not spinning correctly, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • PCB

Related codes

5 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a temporary electronic glitch in its settings and is currently trying to fix itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic self-reset process
  2. If the flashing continues for more than 10 minutes, turn the power switch to the boiler off and back on again
  3. Ensure there is no debris blocking any external ventilation

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

5 red flashes

Your boiler's internal memory chip has developed a communication fault, meaning the control board can no longer read its essential settings.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Parameter Storage Unit (PSU)
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
6 green flashes

Your boiler has encountered a minor temporary glitch and is currently pausing before it attempts to restart itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 15 minutes for the boiler to complete its self-test and restart cycle.
  2. If the flashing continues, turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds and then back to 'On'.
  3. Ensure the system water pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • PCB (Internal circuit board)

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has encountered a general communication error or internal glitch that is preventing it from running properly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector switch on the front of the boiler
  2. Turn the switch to the 'R' (Reset) position and hold it for at least five seconds
  3. Return the switch to the original 'On' position and wait to see if the green light remains steady

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

FLASH FLASH ON

Your boiler's fan unit is not spinning correctly, which means the system cannot safely vent exhaust gases and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FLASH OFF FLASH

Your boiler has stopped working because the electrical supply from your home is too low to safely power the system.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Voltage Regulator
  • External Wiring

Related codes

FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has switched itself off because it got too hot and needs to cool down and be reset.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Turn the selector switch to the 'R' (Reset) position and hold for 5 seconds, then release.
  2. Check that all radiator valves (TRVs) are open and not turned to zero.
  3. Check the boiler pressure gauge — if it is below 1.0 bar, top it up to 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer control the heating or hot water safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FLASH ON ON

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a serious communication error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system or has detected it is getting too hot too quickly without enough water inside.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is too low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Automatic air vent
  • Flow/Return thermistor

Related codes

ON FLASH ON

Your boiler has detected a faulty temperature sensor, which means it cannot accurately measure how hot the water is and has stopped working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected an electrical wiring issue where the power supply wires are connected in the wrong order.

High Engineer only £80-130

Parts commonly replaced

  • External power supply cable
  • Fused spur connection
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's main control computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring loom

Related codes

110

Your boiler has become too hot and has switched itself off to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down for 20 minutes.
  2. Check all radiator valves are open and bleed any trapped air from your radiators.
  3. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is too low.
  4. Reset the boiler using the selector switch or reset button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

117

Your boiler has too much water in the system, which puts extra stress on the internal components and causes it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop taps are fully closed and not letting in water
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to lower the system pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to the normal range (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is corrected

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve (PRV)

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely and has shut down as a precaution.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with two small taps) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both taps one at a time until you hear water flowing into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both taps tightly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Reset the boiler if the error code does not clear automatically.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small lever valves) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both lever valves until you hear water flowing and the pressure gauge on the boiler front rises to between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both valves tightly and the boiler should automatically reset or be ready to restart.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

125

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system properly, causing it to get too hot too quickly.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the code clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Safety High Limit Thermostat
  • Water Pressure Sensor

Related codes

127

Your boiler has failed to heat the stored water to a high enough temperature to kill off any potential bacteria in the tank.

Medium DIY-safe £80-200

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water temperature is set high enough on the boiler control panel (usually above 60°C).
  2. Ensure your hot water timer allows enough time for the cylinder to reach its target temperature.
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the cycle completes successfully on the next attempt.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) sensor
  • Cylinder thermostat
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

133

Your boiler has failed to light after several attempts, meaning it is not currently producing any heat or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active (e.g. check if a gas hob lights or your credit hasn't run out).
  2. Press and hold the 'R' or reset button for at least five seconds.
  3. Ensure the condensate pipe (outside white plastic pipe) isn't frozen if the weather is very cold.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

153

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times and needs to be cleared by holding the selector switch in the 'R' position for a few seconds.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector switch on the front control panel
  2. Turn the selector switch to the 'R' (Reset) position and hold it for 3 to 5 seconds
  3. Release the switch and see if the error clears and the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if reset fails permanently

Related codes

160

Your boiler has detected that the fan, which safely removes waste gases from your home, is not spinning at the correct speed or has stopped working.

High Engineer only £220-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it moves air and waste gases through the system, preventing it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan

Related codes

164

Your boiler has detected a problem with how water is flowing or being measured, which is preventing it from heating up safely.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Flow switch
  • Pump

Related codes

166

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it moves air and waste gases through the system, preventing it from firing up for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Flue Fan
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that it is heating up without enough water circulating through the system, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is too low, use the filling loop to top up the water level.
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open and bleed any trapped air from the radiators.
  4. Press the 'R' or Reset button to restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

432

Your boiler has detected a problem with its electrical earthing connection, which prevents it from operating safely.

High Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness
  • Earth Connection Lead

Related codes

433

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has started to get too hot, usually because water isn't flowing through the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (check the gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar)
  3. Try resetting the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

E.00 – .04

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water returning to the unit due to a faulty or disconnected sensor.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E.00 – .05

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly read the temperature of the water returning to the unit due to a sensor connection problem.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor wiring harness
E.01 – .02

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water going out, which usually means the water isn't circulating through your heating system correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Return NTC Sensor
  • Flow NTC Sensor

Related codes

E.01 – .04

Your boiler has tried to light several times but the flame keeps going out, so the system has locked itself for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is being supplied.
  2. Check if your gas meter has credit or if the emergency control valve is open.
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler has detected that the fan is not spinning at the correct speed to safely clear exhaust fumes, often caused by a strong gust of wind or a mechanical fault.

High Engineer only £150–£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E.01 – .12

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water leaving the boiler, which usually means the water isn't circulating correctly.

High DIY-safe £90-220

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation pump
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

E.01 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving around the system properly or a internal temperature sensor is failing to report correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector switch and turn it to the 'R' (Reset) position for five seconds, then release.
  2. Check that your radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open.
  3. Ensure the system pressure gauge is sitting between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E.01 – .20

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, likely due to water not moving through the pipes correctly or a part failure.

High DIY-safe £120-450

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open to ensure water can flow.
  2. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is too low.
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset button to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flue NTC sensor
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

E.02 – .00

Your boiler is simply notifying you that the reset button has been pressed and it is restarting itself.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence
  2. Ensure no further buttons are pressed while the display clears
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if it returns to normal operation or displays a different code
E.02 – .07

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small valves) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) until you hear water entering the system and watch the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valves tightly once the pressure gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E.02 – .16

Your boiler's internal electronics have encountered a communication failure or hardware fault that is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal wiring harness
E.02 – .17

Your boiler's main control board has lost connection with the gas supply system, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.02 – .19

Your boiler’s internal control board has detected an incorrect configuration setting which is preventing it from running properly.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Jumper Link

Related codes

E.02 – .20

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected an incorrect internal setting, likely caused by a configuration pin being moved or failing.

High Engineer only £80-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configurator Jumper
Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected an incorrect internal setting or a configuration mismatch.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Jumper Link
E.02 – .47

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with an external control, such as your thermostat or timer, due to a likely wiring fault.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Timer
  • Room Thermostat
  • Wiring Loom
E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your thermostat or wireless control system.

High DIY-safe £80-200

What to check first

  1. Check if your wireless thermostat has run out of batteries and replace them if necessary.
  2. Ensure the thermostat is within range of the boiler and has not been moved too far away.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • Wireless receiver
  • Smart thermostat hub
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost communication with its gas control unit and cannot heat your water or radiators for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E.04 – .01

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, usually due to a faulty sensor or a loose wire.

High Engineer only £90-£160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E.04 – .02

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, leading to a complete shutdown for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .03

Your boiler has shut down because the water inside is getting too hot too quickly, usually because it isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open.
  3. Wait for the boiler to cool down and try pressing the Reset button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)

Related codes

E.04 – .04

Your boiler has stopped working because it has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E.04 – .05

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust chimney, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermistor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .06

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, which could be caused by a lack of water flow, a blockage in the chimney, or a faulty sensor.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas NTC Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Circulation Pump
Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has overheated or detected that water is not moving through the system correctly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

E.04 – .10

Your boiler has failed to ignite, meaning it is unable to create a flame to provide heating and hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm your gas supply is active.
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, check that you have sufficient credit.
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or 'Reset' button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing cable
  • PCB

Related codes

E.04 – .12

Your boiler's electronic safety system thinks a flame is burning when it shouldn't be, which has caused it to shut down for your safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .13

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan, which safely clears exhaust fumes, is stuck or not spinning correctly.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a serious internal problem with how it manages gas and air for the burner, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas/Air Unit
E0

Your boiler's internal thermometer has stopped working correctly, meaning the system cannot safely monitor the water temperature to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are turned on and not closed.
  2. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air which may be blocking water flow.
  3. Check your boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Primary Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E2

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system, usually because air is trapped in your radiators or the pressure is too low.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  2. Bleed all radiators using a radiator key to release trapped air
  3. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Water Pressure Switch
  • Central Heating Filter (Cleaning)

Related codes

E3

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E4

Your boiler has failed to light, which could be due to air trapped in the system or a temporary interruption in your gas supply.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas stopcock is open and you have credit on your meter
  2. Bleed your radiators using a radiator key to remove any trapped air
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for 5 seconds to restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing lead

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas control valve, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas control valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E10

Your boiler has lost connection with a thermometer outside your home, which helps it adjust its temperature based on the weather.

Low Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring

Related codes

E12

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly through the system, preventing it from heating up safely.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Differential pressure switch
  • Central heating filter (cleaning)

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that a internal water flow sensor is stuck in the 'on' position even when the pump is not running.

High Engineer only £120-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential pressure switch
  • Microswitch
  • Circulating pump

Related codes

E15

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication error with the gas control system, preventing it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler has likely stopped heating your radiators because a temperature sensor responsible for the central heating has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a blockage in the exhaust pipe or a fault with its internal sensors, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check the white plastic condensate pipe outside for signs of freezing or blockage.
  2. Inspect the external flue terminal on your wall to ensure no debris, bird nests, or leaves are obstructing it.
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E50

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has stopped working correctly, meaning your boiler can no longer tell how hot your water is.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E53

Your boiler is not burning gas correctly because something may be blocking the external exhaust pipe or the air intake.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Locate the flue pipe on the outside of your property
  2. Check for any visible obstructions such as bird nests, debris, or overgrown foliage
  3. Carefully remove any external blockages if it is safe to reach

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue assembly
  • Gas valve
  • Fan

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is having trouble detecting when you turn on your hot taps, which means your water may not heat up consistently or at all.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Flow Turbine
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E55

Your boiler’s internal computer needs to re-sync its gas and air settings to ensure it is burning fuel efficiently and safely.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Electrode

Related codes

E78

Your boiler's internal computer has lost communication with the sensor that monitors water pressure, meaning it has stopped working as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's internal computer has lost contact with its control components, meaning it cannot receive the instructions needed to operate.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E92

Your boiler has detected an error while trying to automatically adjust its internal settings to ensure the gas is burning correctly.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E100

Your boiler has lost track of the current time or date due to a clock error inside its control centre, which may prevent your heating schedules from working correctly.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the clock or timer settings on the boiler control panel
  2. Reset the current time and date to the correct local time
  3. Press the 'Reset' button for 5 seconds to clear the error code

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system effectively, which is causing it to stop running to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Central Heating Filter (Cleaning)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has reached an unsafe temperature, usually due to poor water circulation or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down and press the 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has too much water inside it, causing the internal pressure to rise above the safe operating limit.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop valves are fully closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key into a container
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. Reset the boiler if the code persists

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system is too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps/levers on the filling loop until you hear water moving.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) under the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves when the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E125

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system correctly, which could be due to a blockage, air bubbles, or a pump issue.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Automatic air vent
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

E128

Your boiler has lost its flame multiple times during operation and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame steady while trying to set itself up, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, or the sensor itself has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £100-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger cleaning service
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has switched itself off because it detected that the exhaust gases have become too hot, which is a safety measure to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat exchanger
  • Flue thermistor
  • NTC sensor

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light a flame, which is usually caused by a gas supply issue or a frozen condensate pipe.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. If it is freezing outside, check if the plastic drain pipe from the boiler has frozen and thaw it with warm water
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Spark Ignition Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E134

Your boiler is struggling to ignite because it cannot detect a flame or a steady gas supply despite trying to start several times.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect a steady flow of gas or is experiencing an internal electronic fault related to the gas valve.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition leads

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has noticed that water is not circulating correctly or the temperature readings are inconsistent, causing it to stop for safety.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that helps remove waste gases is failing or there is a communication problem between the fan and the control board.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • PCB (Main circuit board)
  • Fan wiring harness

Related codes

E160 / E161

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that clears out exhaust gases, meaning it cannot start up safely for heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E163

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has developed a fault, meaning the system cannot accurately measure or provide hot water.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC thermistor sensor
  • Wiring harness connectors

Related codes

E164

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that measures water pressure, which means it cannot tell if it is safe to keep running.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's internal computer has developed an electronic fault and is struggling to communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E168

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a glitch or hardware failure and has shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £280-450

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the Reset button for 5 seconds
  2. Turn the power to the boiler off and back on at the fused spur switch
  3. Check if any other household electrics have recently tripped or surged

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Surge protector

Related codes

E193

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly through the system before the burner ignites, often due to an air lock or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air from the system

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Auto air vent
  • Flow temperature sensor

Related codes

E270

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system properly, which is causing the unit to overheat or risk running dry.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Water pressure sensor

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical power timing coming into the unit, which is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Voltage Regulator/Protector

Related codes

E321

Your boiler is having trouble measuring the temperature of your hot water, which usually means it cannot provide a consistent warm flow to your taps.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC thermistor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks there is a flame present even though it hasn't actually started the ignition process.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler has detected that the electrical supply voltage is too low for it to operate safely and effectively.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Voltage Stabiliser

Related codes

E430

Your boiler is checking if there is enough water pressure to run safely and may have paused temporarily.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the needle is below 1.0, use the filling loop handles to top up the water pressure to 1.5 bar
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  4. Press the Reset button once the pressure is stable

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure sensor

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal control board cannot talk to the gas valve, meaning the system cannot safely ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler has detected that the water is heating up too quickly or isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open and not turned off.
  3. If you have recently bled your radiators, top up the system pressure using the filling loop.
  4. Gently reset the boiler to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow and return thermistors (NTC sensors)
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

H.01 – .08

Your boiler is overheating or water isn't moving through the pipes fast enough, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

H.01 – .14

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot too quickly, usually because water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Check for any frozen outdoor condensate pipes if it is winter
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the temporary fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Cleaning/Flushing)
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensors

Related codes

H.01 – .18

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which is likely caused by low water pressure or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature NTC Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

H.01 – .21

Your boiler is heating up too quickly when you turn on the hot water, likely because water isn't flowing through the system as fast as it should.

Medium DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Ensure all internal stop taps and isolation valves are fully open
  2. Check that your mains water pressure is normal and hasn't been interrupted
  3. Turn the hot water tap on and off slowly to see if the error clears itself

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Plate Heat Exchanger
  • Secondary Pump

Related codes

H.02 – .02

Your boiler's main control board has lost its internal settings and does not know which model it is supposed to be operating.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler has hit a temporary software snag where it is confused about its internal setup and needs a simple reset to clear the error.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector switch on the front of the boiler
  2. Turn the switch to the 'R' (Reset) position and hold for at least 5 seconds
  3. Return the switch to its original position (Heating & Hot Water)
  4. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset usually resolves this)
  • Main PCB (only if fault persists after reset)
H.02 – .04

Your boiler's internal computer is having a temporary glitch with its settings and is struggling to understand its own configuration.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the Reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the Reset button for at least 5 seconds.
  3. Wait up to 10 minutes for the boiler to complete its reboot cycle.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Parameter Key
H.02 – .06

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, which is usually caused by a small leak or the need to top up the system.

High DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves until you hear water flowing and the pressure gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Firmly close the valves and check if the fault code clears and the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
H.03 -.00

Your boiler is struggling to communicate with its internal temperature sensors, which is temporarily preventing it from heating your home or water.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler off at the fused spur switch
  2. Wait 30 seconds
  3. Turn the power back on and press 'Reset' if the code persists

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flue Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.03 – .01

Your boiler's internal computer is having trouble talking to its main control board, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness
  • Display PCB

Related codes

H.03 – .02

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, meaning it can no longer heat your water or radiators.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler is not receiving any electricity and the display has completely shut down.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Check if other appliances in the house have power
  2. Check your main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit has tripped
  3. Ensure the boiler's fused spur switch near the unit is turned on
  4. Check the fuse in the boiler's external plug or switched spur

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal PCB fuse
  • Fused spur fuse
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
ON OFF ON

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has failed to stay on, so it has locked itself for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances (like a hob) are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem between its main components.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes