Baxi Statesman Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Regular Oil Discontinued

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
2 Emergency 111 High 7 Medium 9 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 green flash

Your boiler has reached the correct temperature and is simply taking a normal break from firing until the heat is needed again.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat is set to the temperature you want
  2. Wait for the temperature to drop; the boiler will restart automatically
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are turned on
1 red flash

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot or that water is not moving through the system correctly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and any isolation valves are fully open.
  3. Press the reset button on the control panel to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has switched itself off because it got too hot, which is a safety measure to prevent damage to the system.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down completely (at least 20-30 minutes).
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open and there are no obstructions to water flow.
  3. Locate the manual reset button (typically under a small black cap on the control panel) and press it firmly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Thermistor

Related codes

3 green flashes

Your boiler has lost its flame briefly and is trying to restart itself, which could indicate a temporary issue with your fuel supply or a dirty sensor.

Low DIY-safe £90-200

What to check first

  1. Check that you have enough oil in your storage tank
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve is fully open
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic reset process

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell (flame sensor)
  • Oil filter

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot start, usually because of an empty fuel tank or a blocked oil line.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check your oil tank to ensure you haven't run out of fuel.
  2. Verify that the oil supply valve on your tank is fully open.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the burner control box once.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Oil pump

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler is having a temporary 'conversation' issue between its internal electronics which should resolve itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to self-reset as this is often a temporary glitch
  2. Switch the boiler off at the fused spur switch for 30 seconds and turn it back on
  3. Ensure no external controls or thermostats are being adjusted rapidly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Interface

Related codes

4 red flashes

Your boiler's internal safety system has detected that the fan, which clears exhaust gases, is not spinning correctly or has lost power.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • PCB (Control Board)

Related codes

5 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief internal memory glitch and is currently trying to restart itself.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to automatically reset itself
  2. If the flashing continues for more than 10 minutes, turn the boiler power switch off and on again
  3. Monitor the boiler to ensure it returns to normal operation

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if fault recurs

Related codes

5 red flashes

Your boiler's internal memory chip has developed a communication fault, meaning the control system can no longer read the settings it needs to operate safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Parameter Storage Unit (PSU)
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

6 green flashes

Your boiler has encountered a minor temporary glitch and is currently trying to restart itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £80-160

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 15 minutes for the boiler to complete its self-test and restart
  2. Ensure there is enough oil in your storage tank
  3. Press the reset button if the light continues to flash after a long wait

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control Box
  • Photocell
  • Oil Nozzle
Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has detected an internal communication error or a generic failure that is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £150-£400

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control PCB
  • Ignition Lead
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

FLASH OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected that the electrical supply coming into the property is too weak for it to run safely.

Medium DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check if other appliances in your home are flickering or behaving strangely
  2. Contact your electricity network provider to see if there is a known power dip in your area
  3. Switch the boiler off at the fused spur, wait 30 seconds, and switch it back on to reset the electronics

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Transformer
FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough oil in your storage tank
  3. Once the boiler has cooled down, press the 'Reset' button on the control panel or the high-limit thermostat reset
  4. Check that the system pressure is correct if you have a sealed system

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Thermistor
FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's main control computer has developed an internal electronic fault and can no longer manage the system safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

FLASH ON ON

Your boiler's internal computer has likely developed a fault and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box

Related codes

ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly or there isn't enough water inside the unit to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Low Water Pressure Switch
  • Flow Temperature Sensor

Related codes

ON FLASH ON

Your boiler's temperature sensor has failed or is disconnected, meaning the system cannot safely tell how hot the water is and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected an electrical wiring issue where the power supply wires are connected in the wrong order.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main control board
  • Electrical wiring harness
ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Board Wiring Harness

Related codes

110

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down completely.
  2. Check all radiator valves are open and bleed your radiators to remove trapped air.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the control panel to restart the unit.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

117

Your boiler has too much water inside its system, which is causing it to shut down to prevent damage from the excess pressure.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver filling loop valves are tightly closed.
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce system pressure.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Restart the boiler once the pressure has been lowered.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valves
  • Pressure relief valve (PRV)
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely, causing it to shut down temporarily.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose with small valves.
  2. Slowly open the valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal or external filling loop (the silver flexible hose).
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

125

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which causes it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating valves under the boiler are fully open.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to their highest setting.
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is too low.
  4. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Pump Overrun Thermostat
  • Pressure Sensor

Related codes

127

Your boiler has failed to heat the water to a high enough temperature to kill off any potentially harmful bacteria in the system.

Medium DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water programmer is set to 'On' for long enough to allow the tank to reach full temperature.
  2. Ensure your cylinder thermostat is set to at least 60°C.
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the cycle completes successfully on the next attempt.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder thermostat
  • Immersion heater element
  • Control PCB

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap

Related codes

133

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has been unable to create a steady flame, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your home gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob
  2. Ensure your external condensate pipe hasn't frozen if it is currently very cold outside
  3. Press the reset button on the control panel to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • PCB

Related codes

153

Your boiler has experienced a lockout and needs to be manually cleared to restart the system.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart cycle

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Control PCB
160

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that safely removes exhaust gases, meaning the system has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • APS (Air Pressure Switch)
  • PCB (Main Control Board)

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler has detected an issue with how air is moving through the system, preventing it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venting tubes
  • Fan

Related codes

164

Your boiler has detected a problem with how water is flowing or being measured, causing it to stop running as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Flow switch
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

166

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot confirm that the fan is blowing safely and the chimney is clear.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that it is firing without enough water inside it, which could cause the unit to overhead rapidly.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Heat Exchanger
  • Water Pressure Sensor

Related codes

432

Your boiler has detected an electrical grounding issue which is preventing it from running safely for your protection.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Grounding cable
  • External wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

433

Your boiler has shut down because the internal water has reached a dangerously high temperature and is overheating.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Heat exchanger
  • Thermistors

Related codes

E.00 – .04

Your boiler has lost connection with its internal temperature sensor, meaning it cannot monitor water temperature correctly and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness / Connector
E.00 – .05

Your boiler's internal thermometer that monitors water returning to the unit is either broken or not plugged in correctly.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness
E.01 – .02

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water going out, which usually means water is flowing in the wrong direction or a sensor is faulty.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow/Return thermistors
  • Circulation pump
  • Non-return valve
E.01 – .04

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit and has stopped working after failing to stay ignited several times within a day.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Burner nozzle
  • Photocell
Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler's fan isn't spinning at the right speed, often because strong winds are blowing into the flue pipe or a component has failed.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Flue terminal
E.01 – .12

Your boiler has stopped working because it believes the water returning to the unit is hotter than the water leaving it, which usually indicates a circulation problem or a sensor error.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or dial on the front control panel
  2. Press or turn to the 'R' position for five seconds and release
  3. Check that all radiator valves are open and not blocked

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump
E.01 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system properly or a vital internal sensor has lost its connection.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Press the reset button once to see if the error clears.
  2. Check that your home's central heating valves are open.
  3. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness
E.01 – .20

Your boiler has shut down because it has become too hot internally, likely due to a lack of water flow or a sensor malfunction.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that the system water pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Try resetting the boiler once the unit has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas NTC sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (cleaning or replacement)
E.02 – .00

Your boiler is simply acknowledging that the reset button has been pressed and is now attempting to restart its normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait a few moments for the boiler to complete its startup sequence
  2. Check if the display returns to showing standard temperature or pressure
  3. Ensure there are no other active fault codes preventing the boiler from firing up
E.02 – .07

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose with two small valves.
  2. Slowly open both valves one at a time until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both valves tightly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
E.02 – .16

Your boiler's main internal computer has suffered a serious electronic failure and can no longer communicate with the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Channel Service Unit
E.02 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal control board and the fuel delivery system are no longer talking to each other correctly.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .19

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been altered or are not being read correctly, meaning the control board doesn't know which model it is operating.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configurator Jumper Chip
E.02 – .20

Your boiler's internal control settings have been disrupted, likely due to a configuration error on the main circuit board.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Board Jumpers
Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been altered or detected an error in its configuration chips.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Jumper Link
E.02 – .47

Your boiler has lost communication with an external control, such as your thermostat or programmer, due to a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External thermostat wiring
  • Timer unit
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your external thermostat or smart controller, meaning it cannot receive instructions to turn the heating on.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat or smart hub has power and fresh batteries.
  2. Ensure the thermostat is within signal range of the boiler.
  3. Try 're-pairing' the device following the manufacturer’s instructions, usually by holding a pair button on the receiver.
  4. Restart your Wi-Fi router if you are using an internet-connected smart system.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • External RF receiver
  • Wireless room thermostat
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost its connection to the fuel control system and cannot safely light the flame to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £220-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring loom
E.04 – .01

Your boiler has detected a electrical fault with the sensor that measures water temperature, meaning it cannot safely determine how hot the water is and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.04 – .03

Your boiler has shut down because the water inside is getting too hot too quickly, usually because it isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air which may be blocking circulation

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Main heat exchanger (de-sludging)
E.04 – .04

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, and it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .05

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board
E.04 – .06

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected dangerously high internal temperatures or a lack of water movement, and it requires a professional reset and inspection.

Emergency Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Main heat exchanger
Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has locked itself out because it has reached a dangerously high temperature or detected a lack of water circulation.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check that there is power to the external pump (if applicable)
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down and press the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
E.04 – .10

Your boiler is failing to ignite a flame, meaning you will not have any heating or hot water at the moment.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your external oil tank has fuel in it
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve is turned to the 'open' position
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Oil pump
E.04 – .12

Your boiler thinks a flame is burning when it shouldn't be, which is a safety lock-out caused by a sensor issue or electrical glitch.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .13

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan, which safely clears exhaust fumes and brings in fresh air, has stopped spinning correctly.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a serious internal fault with the fuel control system and has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
E0

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors internal heat levels, causing the system to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down for safety, often because air is trapped in the heating system or water isn't circulating properly.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler and radiators to cool down completely.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators in the house.
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped.
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • System Pressure Sensor

Related codes

E2

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which is usually caused by trapped air blocking the pipes.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and wait for the radiators to cool down.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators, starting with the ones on the ground floor.
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up the water if it has dropped too low.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Automatic air vent
  • System pressure sensor

Related codes

E3

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the system safely.

High Engineer only £350-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E4

Your boiler has failed to light, which may be caused by excess air in your heating system preventing proper operation.

High DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Switch off the boiler and wait for the system to cool down
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators in the house
  3. Check the system pressure and top up if it has fallen too low
  4. Reset the boiler to see if it fires up

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler has detected a communication problem between its main control board and the internal gas valve, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £140-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E10

Your boiler is having trouble reading the outside temperature, which may cause it to run less efficiently or at the wrong temperature.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor temperature sensor
  • External sensor wiring

Related codes

E12

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect water moving through the system to safely carry heat away.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential water flow switch
  • Circulating pump
  • Microswitch

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that a internal water safety switch is stuck in the 'on' position, preventing the system from starting up safely.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential water flow switch
  • Pump
  • Microswitch

Related codes

E15

Your boiler has detected an internal communication error with the gas control system and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water for your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating NTC thermistor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem releasing waste gases safely, which could be due to a sensor fault or a physical blockage.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E50

Your boiler's hot water sensor has detected a fault, meaning the system cannot accurately measure or control the temperature of your hot water.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness or connector

Related codes

E53

Your boiler is struggling to breathe properly because something is likely blocking the exhaust pipe where it exits your house.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Locate the flue terminal on the outside of your property
  2. Check for and remove any obstructions such as bird nests, debris, or autumn leaves
  3. Switch the boiler off and on again to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue terminal
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Fan assembly
Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is struggling to detect when you turn on a hot tap, meaning you might have inconsistent or no hot water.

Medium Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Flow Turbine

Related codes

E55

Your boiler has lost its settings and needs to be professionally synchronised to ensure it burns fuel correctly and safely.

High Engineer only £100-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E78

Your boiler has lost track of the system's water pressure because a sensor has stopped reporting correctly.

High Engineer only £140-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Pressure transducer
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's internal computer has lost its connection with the control panel or sensors, preventing it from functioning correctly.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring loom
  • Digital interface/Display board
E92

Your boiler has detected an issue with the air and fuel mixture while trying to automatically adjust its settings for efficient burning.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Electrodes
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB
  • Air Pressure Switch

Related codes

E100

Your boiler's computer board has lost track of the current time, which can disrupt your scheduled heating periods.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the control panel on the front of the boiler
  2. Enter the menu settings to find the 'Time' or 'Clock' option
  3. Adjust the hours and minutes to the correct current time and save the settings

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system effectively, which is causing it to stop running to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Central heating filter

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has reached a temperature that is too high, often caused by a blockage or a pump issue.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down completely (at least 30 minutes)
  2. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero
  3. Press the reset button on the control panel to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Central heating pump
  • Temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has detected that there is too much water pressure in the system, which can prevent it from running safely.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the bleed valve on a radiator
  2. Use a radiator key to slowly release water into a container until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops into the green zone (typically 1 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Ensure the filling loop valves are fully closed so no more water enters the system

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal filling loop or external silver braided hose (usually underneath the boiler or nearby pipework).
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or underneath
  2. Find the silver braided filling loop valves on the pipework
  3. Slowly open the valves until the gauge settles between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Close the valves tightly and press the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E125

Your boiler is overheating because the water is not moving around the system properly.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Check if any bypass valves are closed or restricted

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Primary flow sensor
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

E128

Your boiler is repeatedly losing its flame during operation, causing it to shut down to prevent damage or unsafe running.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to keep a steady flame while trying to set itself up, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, which can be a sign of a serious internal blockage or overheating.

High Engineer only £130-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger
  • Fan

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has shut itself down because it detected that the exhaust gases have become dangerously hot, which could indicate a blockage or a serious internal circulation issue.

Emergency Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Primary Pump

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has failed to light because it either cannot get enough gas or the flame has gone out unexpectedly.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit (if you have a prepay meter).
  2. Ensure your gas stopcock is fully open.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to attempt a restart.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Ignition electrode
  • Spark generator
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E134

Your boiler is trying to light but cannot find a steady supply of fuel, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is fully open
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, ensure you have sufficient credit
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds to clear the lockout

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Spark Generator

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas supply or is experiencing an internal electronic failure preventing it from lighting.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Electrode

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has noticed that water isn't moving through the system correctly, which is causing its internal sensors to record conflicting temperatures.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that safely removes exhaust gases, meaning it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E160 / E161

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that clears away waste gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E163

Your boiler's hot water sensor has failed or has a wiring issue, meaning it cannot accurately measure how hot the water is or provide it to your taps.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

E164

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly detect the water pressure, often caused by a faulty internal sensor or a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £130-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a communication fault and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E168

Your boiler's internal computer is experiencing a communication error or has detected an internal fault, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Main Control Board
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E193

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system properly before it starts the heating process, often due to a blockage or a pump issue.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Try resetting the boiler to see if the error clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

E270

Your boiler has detected that it is overheating because there is not enough water moving through the system to keep things cool.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical power timing coming into the unit, which is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External power supply/Inverter

Related codes

E321

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has stopped working correctly, meaning your taps may only provide cold or lukewarm water.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks it is firing up when it shouldn't be, causing the system to lock out for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler is not receiving the correct amount of electricity from the mains supply to operate safely.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness
  • External Voltage Stabiliser

Related codes

E430

Your boiler is performing a temporary check to ensure there is enough water pressure in the system to operate safely.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or under the casing.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the external filling loop to top it up to 1.5 bar.
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure sensor

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer has lost contact with the control system that manages the gas flow.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler is getting too hot because water isn't moving through the system quickly enough or a sensor is misreading the temperature.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Check that the condensate pipe has not frozen if it is a very cold day
  4. Restart the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensors (NTC Thermistors)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

H.01 – .08

Your boiler is heating up too quickly or water isn't moving through the system properly, causing the unit to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system water pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Check for any unusual noises that might suggest an air lock

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (de-scale)
H.01 – .14

Your boiler has detected that the water is getting too hot too quickly, usually because it isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets
  4. Reset the boiler using the control dial

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Heat Exchanger

Related codes

H.01 – .18

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system correctly or a temperature sensor has detected a problem.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your boiler system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature NTC Sensors
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

H.01 – .21

Your boiler is heating up too quickly because water isn't moving through the system properly or a sensor is misreading the temperature.

Medium DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air from the system
  3. Ensure the system pressure is topped up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Plate Heat Exchanger
H.02 – .02

Your boiler’s internal computer has forgotten its identity and needs to be told which model it is before it can start up again.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler's computer is confused because its internal settings do not match the specific model requirements, often following a power cut or a part being replaced.

Medium Engineer only £90-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Configuration Key
H.02 – .04

Your boiler's internal computer is temporarily confused by its own settings and cannot operate correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External Parameter Reset Module
H.02 – .06

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is either too low or there is a leak somewhere in the heating system causing the unit to stop working.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the boiler (it should usually be between 1 and 1.5 bar).
  2. If the pressure is low, use the external filling loop to top up the system.
  3. Inspect visible radiators and pipes for any signs of water leaks.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
H.03 -.00

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer has lost contact with one of its temperature sensors.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC sensor
  • Return NTC sensor
  • Flue sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

H.03 – .01

Your boiler's main internal computer is having trouble communicating with the rest of the unit, preventing it from starting up correctly.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
  • Display interface cable
H.03 – .02

Your boiler has unexpectedly lost its flame while it was running, meaning it can no longer heat your water or radiators.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Fuel pump
  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes

Related codes

OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler has no electricity and is completely powered down, which could be due to a simple tripped switch or a blown fuse.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler isolation switch (usually a white switch near the boiler) is turned ON.
  2. Check your main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped and flip it back to ON.
  3. Inspect the fuse in the boiler's fused spur and replace it with a 3-amp fuse if it has blown.

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3-amp Fuse
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom
ON OFF ON

Your boiler has failed to ignite several times and has locked itself out for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your fuel tank has run out of oil
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve is fully open
  3. Press the reset button on the control panel once

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Oil pump
ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected a communication problem between its electronic internal components, meaning it cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Main control board (PCB)