Baxi Suprima 50 Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Regular Natural Gas 14.7 kW 1998-2005 Discontinued

Replaced by: Potterton Suprima HE

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
2 Emergency 111 High 9 Medium 7 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 green flash

Your boiler has reached its target temperature and is simply resting until it needs to heat up again.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is normal operation.
  2. Ensure your room thermostat is set to the desired temperature.
  3. Check that your programmer or timer is currently calling for heat.
1 red flash

Your boiler has likely overheated or a sensor has detected an incorrect temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down for 20 minutes
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to circulate
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermistor/Temperature Sensor
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally and needs to cool down for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down for at least 20 minutes
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to circulate
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the control panel to restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)

Related codes

3 green flashes

Your boiler is struggling to keep its burner lit and is trying to restart itself automatically.

Medium Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • PCB (Control Board)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler is failing to light its burner after five attempts, which means it cannot provide heat or hot water and has gone into lockout for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Check if your prepayment gas meter has credit
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the boiler for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler is having a temporary 'conversation' issue between its internal parts and should fix itself momentarily.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait a few minutes for the boiler to automatically reset itself.
  2. If the flashing continues, turn the control knob to 'Reset' for 5 seconds and then back to your desired setting.
  3. Check that any external thermostats or timers are calling for heat.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually self-correcting)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 red flashes

Your boiler has detected that its internal fan is not spinning correctly, which means it cannot safely vent exhaust gases and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

5 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief electronic 'hiccup' or data error and is trying to clear itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-280

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to self-reset as it is programmed to do.
  2. If the flashing continues for more than 10 minutes, turn the power off at the fused spur switch for 30 seconds and turn it back on.
  3. Press the reset button if the light pattern changes to a static red light.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually self-corrects)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
5 red flashes

Your boiler's computer memory has developed a technical fault, causing the system to lock out for safety.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Parameter Storage Unit
6 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief internal glitch and is currently attempting to restart itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 10 minutes for the boiler to complete its self-reset process
  2. Monitor the control panel to see if the flashing light stops and returns to steady green
  3. If the flashing continues, turn the temperature control knob to 'Off' and back to the desired setting to trigger a manual reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • PCB (if fault becomes permanent)
Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has detected an internal communication error and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Ignition Lead
  • Electrode Set
FLASH OFF FLASH

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power from the mains supply to operate safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Power Supply Components

Related codes

FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has got too hot and has shut itself down for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds.
  3. Check if your internal central heating pump is making a humming noise or running.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £240-£380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Ignition Lead
FLASH ON ON

Your boiler's internal computer brain has developed a terminal fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Potted Ignition Lead
ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler has detected that water is either not moving through the system properly or there is no water inside the unit, causing it to overheat quickly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check your system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • External Pump Valve
  • PCB (Control Board)
ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected an electrical wiring issue, meaning the power supply polarities are the wrong way around and need correcting for safety.

Emergency Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box
ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Ignition Lead

Related codes

110

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down for at least 30 minutes.
  2. Check all radiator valves are open and bleed any air from your radiators using a radiator key.
  3. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar, then press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
117

Your boiler has too much water in the system, which puts extra stress on the internal pipes and components.

Medium DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver braided filling loop valves are fully closed
  2. Locate a radiator and bleed water from the air vent using a radiator key
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. If pressure continues to rise on its own, call a Gas Safe engineer

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps on the hose until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler to restart the system.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a silver braided hose usually found underneath the boiler or near the hot water cylinder.
  2. Slowly open the one or two valves on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

125

Your boiler has stopped working because the water isn't moving through the system properly, which is causing it to overheat and shut down.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check that the central heating pump is not stuck by gently tapping it
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that could be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

127

Your boiler hasn't been able to heat the water hot enough to kill off harmful bacteria in the system, which is a safety setting meant to keep your water clean.

Medium DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water cylinder thermostat is turned up to at least 60°C.
  2. Ensure your heating and hot water controls are set to run for long enough to reach full temperature.
  3. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler to clear the temporary warning.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder thermostat
  • Wiring center
  • NTC thermistor

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame rectification electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • PCB (Control board)
  • Gas valve

Related codes

133

Your boiler has failed to light the gas flame after several attempts, which has caused the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas credit has run out or if other gas appliances in your home are working
  2. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the boiler control panel
  3. If the boiler is located in a very cold area, check if the external condensate pipe has frozen

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

153

Your boiler's internal computer has been reset too many times in a short period and has temporarily locked itself for safety.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler power off at the wall switch or fused spur
  2. Wait for at least 30 seconds
  3. Turn the power back on and press the reset button once firmly

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset usually sufficient)
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board) if fault persists
160

Your boiler has detected that its internal fan is not spinning correctly, which means it cannot safely blow away waste gases and has shut down as a result.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • PCB

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler has detected an issue with how air is moving through the system, meaning it cannot safely clear waste gases and will not fire up.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

164

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system correctly or a sensor that monitors water flow has failed.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Switch
  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Circulating Pump

Related codes

166

Your boiler has detected an issue with the airflow system which is preventing it from firing up safely.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that it is trying to heat up without enough water flowing through it, which could cause the unit to overheat.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your system water pressure is too low and top it up using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Press the reset button once the system is pressurized

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • External Filling Loop
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

432

Your boiler has lost its electrical ground connection, which is a vital safety feature that prevents electrical faults.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Earthing Cable/Harness

Related codes

433

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water inside the main heating unit has reached a dangerously high temperature.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Thermistor
  • Main PCB
  • Heat exchanger

Related codes

E.00 – .04

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor is disconnected or faulty, which prevents it from monitoring the water heat levels safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector
E.00 – .05

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-170

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector
E.01 – .02

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water going out, which usually means a sensor is failing or the water flow is mixed up.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.01 – .04

Your boiler is repeatedly struggling to keep the burner flame lit, forcing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame rectification electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Control Board)
  • Spark electrode
Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler's fan is not spinning at the correct speed to safely clear exhaust fumes, which could be caused by strong winds outside or a mechanical fault.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Venturi tube
E.01 – .12

Your boiler has sensed that the cool water returning is hotter than the water leaving, which usually means the water isn't circulating correctly or a sensor is misreading.

High DIY-safe £90-210

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the boiler control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least five seconds.
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to circulate properly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Circulation pump
  • Main PCB
E.01 – .17

Your boiler has likely stopped working because water isn't moving through the system properly or a temperature sensor has a loose connection.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Press the 'Reset' button on the front control panel and hold for 2 seconds
  2. Check that all radiator valves are open and not turned to zero
  3. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to roughly 1.5 bar if a gauge is visible

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Central Heating Pump
  • Wiring harness
E.01 – .20

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor thinks the exhaust gases are getting too hot, usually because water isn't flowing through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's radiator valves (TRVs) are turned up and not all closed.
  2. Verify that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the control knob to the 'R' position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flue gas NTC sensor
  • Heat exchanger (descaling)
E.02 – .00

Your boiler is simply notifying you that the reset button was recently held down or pressed.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart cycle
  2. Ensure the reset button is not stuck in the 'in' position
  3. Monitor the boiler for any further fault codes that may have prompted the reset
E.02 – .07

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small valves at either end of the hose until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves when the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop hose
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
E.02 – .16

Your boiler's internal computer has suffered a serious electronic failure and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Box Upgrade Kit
E.02 – .17

Your boiler's internal computer has lost contact with the gas control unit, meaning the system cannot safely manage the fuel it needs to stay alight.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .19

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected a configuration setting error, likely caused by a component fault or an incorrect setup after a repair.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Configuration Jumper
E.02 – .20

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected an internal configuration error, likely due to a component change or a settings mismatch.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Jumper Link
Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected a configuration setting change that is preventing it from starting up properly.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Board Interface
E.02 – .47

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with external controls like your thermostat or programmer, preventing it from heating your home.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Programmer
  • Room Thermostat
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your thermostat or external programmer, meaning it cannot receive the signal to turn on.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your wireless thermostat has fresh batteries installed.
  2. Ensure the thermostat is within signal range of the boiler and has not been moved too far away.
  3. Turn the boiler power off and back on at the fused spur switch to attempt a reconnection.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat Batteries
  • RF Receiver Unit
  • External Programmer
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost communication with the internal gas valve, which means it cannot ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .01

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness
E.04 – .02

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, usually due to a faulty sensor or a loose internal wire.

High Engineer only £90-£160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .03

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature because the water inside isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  2. Check that the external pump (if visible) is making a gentle humming sound
  3. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the external gauge
  4. Switch the boiler off and on again to attempt a reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .04

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .05

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .06

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, which is likely caused by water not moving properly or a faulty safety sensor.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flue gas NTC sensor
  • Main PCB
Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected it is getting too hot or there is a problem with the internal safety sensors.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is at the correct level (usually 1 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the control knob to 'R' and then back to the desired temperature

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Circulation Pump
E.04 – .10

Your boiler has failed to ignite, which means it cannot heat the water needed for your radiators or taps.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm your gas supply is on
  2. Ensure your credit or card meter has sufficient balance
  3. Press the reset button firmly for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
E.04 – .12

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame when it shouldn't, which is preventing it from starting safely to protect your home.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
E.04 – .13

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that clears away waste gases is jammed or cannot turn.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a serious internal hardware failure involving its gas supply system and cannot safely ignite.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Fan Assembly
E0

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water inside the system.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC thermistor (Temperature sensor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has got too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down completely
  2. Check your radiator valves are open and bleed any trapped air from your radiators
  3. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Thermistor

Related codes

E2

Your boiler has stopped because the water isn't flowing through the pipes and radiators properly, likely due to trapped air or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Switch off the heating and let the radiators cool
  3. Bleed all radiators using a radiator key to release trapped air
  4. Top up the boiler pressure if it drops after bleeding
  5. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Auto air vent
  • Flow switch

Related codes

E3

Your boiler’s internal control board has developed an electrical error and is unable to manage the heating process correctly.

High Engineer only £240-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E4

Your boiler is struggling to light and stay on, which might be caused by trapped air in your heating system stopping the water from flowing properly.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Switch off the boiler and wait for the radiators to cool down
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators, starting with the downstairs ones
  3. Check your boiler's pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped
  4. Press the Reset button on the boiler control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • PCB (Control Board)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler has lost its electrical connection to the gas control valve, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E10

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor that monitors outside temperature, which means it doesn't know how hard it needs to work to heat your home.

Low DIY-safe £90-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds
  3. Check if any external wires leading to the outside of your property appear loose or damaged

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E12

Your boiler is struggling to detect if water is moving through the system properly, which is preventing it from heating up for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your system water pressure is within the green zone (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and any isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential pressure switch
  • Circulation pump
  • Flow pipe thermistor

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that a internal water flow sensor is stuck in the 'on' position even when the pump is off, preventing the system from starting safely.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential pressure switch
  • Circulating pump
  • Microswitch diaphragm

Related codes

E15

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication error between the main control board and the gas valve, preventing it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler's internal temperature sensor has stopped sending a reliable signal, which means it cannot safely tell how hot the water is for your heating.

High Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (Flow) NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • PCB

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it releases exhaust gases or a fault with an internal sensor, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating Return NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

E50

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors hot water temperature, meaning it can no longer safely heat your water.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

E53

Your boiler is not getting enough air to burn gas safely, which often means the external exhaust pipe is obstructed.

Emergency Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue terminal
  • Fan assembly
  • Gas valve
Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is having trouble detecting when you turn on your hot taps, which may prevent the water from heating up properly.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW flow sensor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E55

Your boiler’s internal computer has lost its timing settings and needs to be recalculated to ensure the gas burns correctly.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E78

Your boiler has lost track of the water pressure inside the system because the internal sensor is either faulty or disconnected.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • PCB

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's main control board has lost contact with its user display or internal sensors, meaning it cannot receive instructions to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Display Interface

Related codes

E92

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fuel and air mixture while trying to calibrate itself, meaning it cannot start the burner safely.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E100

Your boiler's main control board has lost track of the time or date, which is preventing it from running its scheduled heating cycles.

High Engineer only £240-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system effectively, which is causing it to stop to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check that the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Reset the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Pump Valves
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked with sludge)

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, triggering a safety switch to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open and not turned to zero
  2. Ensure your system water pressure is at the correct level (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Wait for the boiler to cool down, then press and hold the 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Thermistor (NTC Sensor)

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system is too high.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure has been lowered

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Filling Loop

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external silver braided filling loop usually found underneath or near the boiler
  2. Slowly open the small valve(s) until you hear water moving
  3. Close the valves once the pressure gauge on the system reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low for the system to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small valves to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then press the reset button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E125

Your boiler is overheating because the water is not moving around the pipes properly.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E128

Your boiler is struggling to keep the flame lit and has repeatedly shut down after several failed attempts to stay running.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to keep a steady flame during its startup process and has stopped for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Spark Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Control Board)

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot or the sensor monitoring them has failed, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger cleaning
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has switched itself off because the temperature in the exhaust flue has become dangerously high, which is a safety mechanism to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Thermistor

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has failed to light because it either cannot get any gas or the internal sensor cannot detect the flame.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. Check if other gas appliances like a hob are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E134

Your boiler has tried to ignite several times but failed to establish a flame, often due to a temporary interruption in the gas supply or a sensor issue.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to restart the ignition sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has stopped working because the gas supply has been interrupted or the internal controls are failing to detect the flame.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has detected that the water temperature readings are inconsistent, which usually means water isn't circulating correctly through the system.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that clears away waste gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring loom
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E160 / E161

Your boiler has detected a problem with its internal fan, which is preventing it from safely clearing exhaust gases and starting up.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E163

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors hot water temperature, meaning it can no longer safely heat water for your taps.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC Thermistor Sensor
  • Wiring harness / Connector

Related codes

E164

Your boiler is having trouble monitoring its internal water pressure, which prevents it from firing up and heating your home.

High Engineer only £140-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Loom
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £240-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E168

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a memory error and has stopped working to prevent further issues.

High Engineer only £240-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Reset Button Kit

Related codes

E193

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system properly before it begins the heating process.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system water pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Try resetting the boiler using the reset button to see if the error clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E270

Your boiler is overheating because water isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air bubbles
  4. Press the reset button once the unit has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow and return sensors (thermistor)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical power timing coming from the mains supply or an internal electronics failure.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External power supply filter

Related codes

E321

Your boiler has lost its ability to measure the temperature of your hot water properly, which means it cannot safely heat your water to the right level.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks a flame is burning when it shouldn't be, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power to run correctly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Power Supply/Wiring

Related codes

E430

Your boiler is temporarily checking if there is enough water pressure in the system to operate safely.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on your boiler or central heating system
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the external filling loop to top it up to 1.5 bar
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open and there are no visible leaks

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure sensor

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas valve, meaning it cannot safely control the fuel needed to start the flame.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler is overheating because water isn't moving through the system quickly enough or a sensor is giving a false reading.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system water pressure is topped up to roughly 1.5 bar
  3. Check if the pump is running or if there is a blockage in the filters

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensors
  • Main PCB
H.01 – .08

Your boiler is overheating or water is not moving through the system quickly enough to be cooled down.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system water pressure is within the green zone on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main PCB
H.01 – .14

Your boiler has sensed it is getting too hot too quickly, likely because the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is at the correct level (usually between 1.0 and 1.5 bar)
  3. Check for any visible leaks around the boiler and pipework
  4. Press the reset button once the boiler has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

H.01 – .18

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly or a sensor is getting a strange temperature reading, so it has shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets that might be blocking circulation.
  4. Restart the boiler using the reset button to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

H.01 – .21

Your boiler is shutting down because the water inside is heating up too quickly, which usually means it isn't moving through the system properly.

Medium DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's radiator valves and any isolation valves are fully open
  2. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if it resets automatically once the temperature drops

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Diverter Valve
H.02 – .02

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been programmed with the correct settings and doesn't know how to operate.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler's computer brain is momentarily confused by its internal setup and needs to be refreshed or reconfigured.

Medium DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Press the 'Reset' button on the front control panel for at least 5 seconds.
  2. Switch the electricity supply to the boiler off at the fused spur switch, wait 30 seconds, and switch it back on.
  3. If the code persists after three reset attempts, call a Gas Safe engineer to check the PCB settings.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
H.02 – .04

Your boiler's computer system has encountered a temporary settings error and is struggling to communicate with its internal components.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the reset button for at least five seconds.
  2. Turn the power supply to the boiler off at the fused spur switch for 30 seconds, then turn it back on.
  3. Check if the error clears and the boiler attempts to ignite.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Parameter Stick
H.02 – .06

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low or leaky, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on your system; it should ideally be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Identify the filling loop (braided silver hose) and slowly turn the valves to top up the water pressure
  3. Inspect visible radiators and pipework for any signs of water leaks

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
  • PRV (Pressure Relief Valve)
H.03 -.00

Your boiler is having trouble 'talking' to its internal temperature sensors, which is preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £120-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flue Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
H.03 – .01

Your boiler’s internal computer is having trouble talking to its other components, causing the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.03 – .02

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running and has safely turned itself off to prevent a problem.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob
  2. Ensure your credit meter has sufficient balance
  3. Press the Reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler appears to have no electrical power at all, meaning the screen and internal components are completely switched off.

High DIY-safe £60-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler's power switch is turned on.
  2. Ensure your main electrical consumer unit hasn't tripped a fuse.
  3. Check the fused spur switch, usually located near the boiler, and replace the 3-amp fuse if necessary.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External 3A Fuse
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Transformer
ON OFF ON

Your boiler has tried to light several times but failed, so it has locked itself for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds
  3. Check if your gas prepay meter has credit and that the gas isolation valve is open

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve
ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem and has stopped working to prevent further damage.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low voltage wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)