Heatline Capriz 24 Fault codes & diagnostics

36 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24 kW 2010-2015 Discontinued

Replaced by: CaprizPlus

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 29 High 3 Medium 3 Low

All 36 documented codes

Tap any card for details

30 Flashing

Your boiler's temperature gauge is having trouble reading the water heat levels, causing the system to stop heating your home as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness
40 Flashing

Your boiler is struggling to read the outdoor temperature, so it is defaulting to a basic setting to keep your home warm.

Low Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather sensor
  • Wiring loom
50 Flashing

Your boiler is struggling to clear exhaust gases safely, so it has stopped working to prevent any risk of fumes entering your home.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Flue Fan
  • Venturi
60 Flashing

Your boiler is failing to ignite because it cannot detect a flame or is not receiving a steady gas supply.

Emergency Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

70 Flashing

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of the water coming out of your taps, which means it will likely stop providing hot water until this is resolved.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC thermistor

Related codes

80 Flashing

Your boiler has stopped working because the amount of water inside your heating system has dropped below the required level.

High DIY-safe £60-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a silver braided flexible hose connected between two pipes under your boiler.
  2. Open the small valves at both ends of this hose to allow mains water to enter the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both valves tightly to prevent over-pressurisation.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure gauge
90 Flashing

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage to its internal components.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Pump
  • Diverter valve
  • Primary heat exchanger

Related codes

Bar LED Flashing

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a small metal braided hose underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) on the filling loop to allow water to enter the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly and restart your boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure gauge
Central Heating LED flashing

Your boiler has lost the ability to monitor the temperature of your heating water, so it has safely shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Thermistor
Overheat LED flashing

Your boiler has detected that internally it is getting too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Central heating pump
  • Diverter valve cartridge

Related codes

0.8bar

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your heating system has fallen too low for it to operate safely, so it has paused its functions to protect itself.

High DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under the boiler connecting two pipes.
  2. Open the valves at both ends of the filling loop to allow water to enter the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close both valves firmly once the needle reaches the green zone between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E01

Your boiler is failing to light the internal flame needed to heat your water and home.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB
E02

Your boiler is struggling to clear exhaust fumes safely, so it has turned itself off to prevent a build-up of gases.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Flue fan
  • Venturi

Related codes

E03

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot and has automatically shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • High limit thermostat
  • NTC thermistor
  • Pump
  • Primary heat exchanger

Related codes

E05

Your boiler is struggling to detect the flow of water through your heating system, which is preventing it from firing up to provide warmth.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • NTC thermistor

Related codes

E06

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of the water used for your taps and shower, so it has stopped providing hot water to prevent overheating.

Medium Engineer only £120-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC sensor

Related codes

E09

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system is currently too low.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a silver flexible hose) connected to the pipes underneath your boiler.
  2. Open the small valve or tap on the loop to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valve tightly once the needle on the gauge reaches the green zone, typically between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
E12

Your boiler's computer memory has encountered a data error, which explains why the system has stopped functioning.

High Engineer only £250-400

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control PCB
E15

Your boiler has detected that the water temperature is significantly different between the start and end of its heating circuit, which usually means there is a problem with the internal sensors or the flow of water.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flow/Return Thermistor
  • Central Heating Pump
E16

Your boiler is currently unable to read the water temperature accurately, which has caused it to switch itself off to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return thermistor sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 36
E22

Your boiler's internal computer has lost its settings and cannot communicate correctly, meaning the system is currently unable to operate.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control PCB
  • Configuration Key
E77

Your boiler is unable to safely control the flow of gas required to light the burner and produce heat.

High Engineer only £180-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.22

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under the boiler connecting two pipes.
  2. Open the valve(s) on the filling loop slowly to let water into the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly and restart your boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel
F.28

Your boiler has failed to light the flame after three attempts and has shut down for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed circuit board
F.xx

Your boiler has identified an internal error that requires a professional engineer to diagnose and repair.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • printed circuit board
  • main control panel
  • internal sensors
F0

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver braided hose with one or two manual taps underneath the boiler
  2. Open the tap(s) slowly to allow water into the system until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Close the tap(s) firmly and ensure there is no water dripping from the connection

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

F1

Your boiler is failing to light the burner, meaning it cannot provide you with heating or hot water until the issue is repaired.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F2

Your boiler has shut itself off because it has detected that it is running too hot and could potentially damage itself.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • NTC thermistor
  • Central heating pump
  • Plate-to-plate heat exchanger

Related codes

F3

Your boiler has lost the ability to accurately measure the temperature of your hot water, which means it will stop heating the water until the faulty sensor is replaced.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC Sensor

Related codes

F4

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of the water being heated for your taps, which means it will likely stop providing hot water until the faulty sensor is replaced.

Medium Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC sensor

Related codes

Showing 31–36 of 36
F5

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly detect the temperature of the water used for your radiators.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F6

Your boiler is struggling to read the outdoor temperature, but it should still be able to operate using its internal settings.

Low Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External weather sensor
  • Wiring loom

Related codes

F7

Your boiler has detected that the electrical power supply it is receiving is too low to operate safely and reliably.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F8

Your boiler has detected that the air-extracting fan is not spinning at the right speed, so it has safely shut down to prevent the unit from operating without proper ventilation.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
F9

Your boiler's computer is having trouble talking to its internal parts, which has caused it to stop working completely to stay safe.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes