The 6 most common faults
Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.
Locate the filling loop (a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.Open the small valve or tap on the loop to allow mains water into the boiler.Monitor the pressure gauge on the front until it reaches 1.5 bar, then turn the valve firmly off.
Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system fast enough, likely due to low water pressure or a blockage.
Check your boiler pressure gauge; if it is below 1 bar, use the filling loop to top it up to 1.5 barEnsure all radiator valves are fully openTurn the boiler off and back on again to reset the temporary fault
Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure inside the system for it to heat your home safely.
Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a silver braided hose under the boiler.Open the valves attached to the loop slowly to allow water into the system.Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then turn the valves off securely.
Your boiler is trying to start but the flame is not catching, meaning it cannot provide you with heating or hot water.
Full guide for F28Your boiler has lost the ability to measure the temperature of the water being sent to your radiators, so it has shut down as a precaution to prevent overheating.
Full guide for F00Your boiler is failing to light because it cannot detect a flame or is not receiving a steady gas supply.
Full guide for F01on the Heatline Compact 30
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Heatline shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue