BoilerFaultCodesThe 6 most common faults
Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.
Locate the external filling loop, usually consisting of a small braided hose with one or two valves located underneath the boiler.Gradually open the valve(s) to allow mains water into the system while watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.Stop filling once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then ensure the valves are tightly closed.
Your boiler has stopped working because the amount of water inside the system has dropped below the required level.
Locate the filling loop, which is usually a small silver braided hose or a built-in lever underneath the boiler.Slowly open the valve to let water enter the system until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Close the valve tightly and check that the error code has cleared.
Your boiler has lost the digital instructions telling it how to function, which prevents it from starting up correctly.
Full guide for Boiler Type Card FaultYour boiler has attempted to restart itself too many times in a short period and has now locked itself out for safety.
Full guide for L5Your boiler was running but the flame has unexpectedly gone out, so it has safely shut down to prevent gas from building up.
Full guide for F2Your boiler is struggling to clear air and gases correctly, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent any unsafe operation.
Full guide for F3on the Ideal Independent
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Ideal shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue