The 6 most common faults
Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.
Locate the external filling loop, which is a flexible braided hose usually found underneath the boiler.Open the small valve or tap attached to the hose slowly until you hear water entering the system.Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Close the valve or tap tightly and ensure no water is dripping from the hose.
Your boiler has stopped heating because it is unable to accurately measure the temperature of the water circulating through your radiators.
Full guide for E20Your boiler's computer module does not match the specific settings or version required for your model, meaning the system cannot communicate correctly to heat your home.
Full guide for E28Your boiler has lost the ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water, so it has turned itself off as a precaution to prevent overheating.
Full guide for E50Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected an overheating issue, which prevents it from running until it cools down and the fault is cleared.
Full guide for E110Your boiler is struggling to pump water around your heating system, likely because the water isn't flowing freely or the pump is stuck.
Full guide for E125on the Main System 24 Eco
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Main shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue