Common problems guide

The most common Potterton boiler problems

The faults we see most often across the Potterton range — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs, and whether it's a DIY job or needs a Gas Safe engineer. Based on fault-code data across 79 Potterton boiler models.

328 unique codes
79 models covered
8 DIY-safe (top 8)
8 engineer needed

The most common Potterton faults

01
20 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because it failed to light properly or the waste water pipe is blocked.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler tries to light but cannot detect a stable flame, prompting the system to shut down for safety. The most common reasons are a lack of gas supply, a dirty sensing probe that can't 'see' the flame, or a blockage in the waste water pipe that causes water to back up into the heat exchanger. In many cases, it is simply a sign that the components responsible for the spark or flame monitoring have worn out.

What to try first

Check that your gas pre-pay meter hasn't run out of credit.Inspect the white plastic pipe (condensate pipe) outside to see if it is frozen or blocked.Attempt to reset the boiler by turning the control knob to 'R' for five seconds.

Est. cost
£100-£280
Parts
Flame sensing electrode, Gas valve, Ignition lead
Full guide for Performa System HE 20
02
110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal temperature of the boiler rises above a safe limit, triggering a safety sensor to cut the power. The most common reasons are a failed pump that isn't moving water away from the heat exchanger quickly enough, or a buildup of limescale and sludge that restricts water flow.

What to try first

Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to the off position.Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.Press the 'Reset' button (usually a small 'R' or turn the selector knob to 'R' for 5 seconds) to see if the fault clears.

Est. cost
£120-£280
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Water Pump, Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)
Full guide for Promax Combi HE Plus 110
03
133 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot establish a stable flame, meaning it cannot provide heating or hot water.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler fails to detect a flame after several attempts to spark, causing the system to shut down for safety. The most common reasons are a temporary interruption in your gas supply, a build-up of carbon on the ignition probes, or a component failure that prevents gas from flowing correctly into the burner.

What to try first

Check that your gas emergency control valve is turned on and that other gas appliances work.If you have a pre-payment meter, ensure you have active credit.Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for five seconds, then back to its original position.In freezing weather, check if your external plastic condensate pipe has frozen and needs thawing with warm water.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for Promax Combi HE Plus 133
04
125 High DIY-safe

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system correctly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler gets too hot too quickly because it isn't being pushed away into your radiators or hot water tank. The most common reason is that the internal pump has failed or is physically jammed, but it can also be caused by a build-up of sludge blocking the pipework or an airlock trapped in the system.

What to try first

Check that your radiator valves are openEnsure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gaugeGently bleed your radiators to remove trapped air

Est. cost
£180-£350
Parts
Central heating pump, Pump head, Main heat exchanger
Full guide for Promax Combi HE Plus 125
05
Display not illuminated High DIY-safe

Your boiler has no electrical power, meaning the controls and display are completely dead.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the electrical supply to the boiler's internal brain has been interrupted or a critical component has failed. The most common reason is a blown fuse on the main circuit board or a failure of the internal transformer which converts power for the display. In some cases, it can be caused by an external issue like a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse in the wall switch.

What to try first

Check if the boiler's electrical isolation switch is turned on.Inspect your home's main fuse box to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.Check the fuse in the boiler's fused spur switch, usually located on the wall nearby.

Est. cost
£60-250
Parts
Main Control PCB, Internal Fuse, Transformer
Full guide for Envoy 30 Display not illuminated
06
F (Flashing) High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working completely and entered a safety lockout mode to prevent further issues.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler has tried to ignite several times but failed to establish or detect a stable flame. The most common reasons are a lack of gas reaching the burner, a worn-out ignition spark, or the internal control board failing to recognize that the boiler has successfully lit.

What to try first

Locate the reset button on the control panelPress and hold the reset button for several secondsWait for the boiler to attempt to restartCheck that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has credit

Est. cost
£100-350
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for Envoy F (Flashing)
07
E110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has overheated, prompting a safety switch to shut the system down to prevent damage.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler reaches an unsafe temperature, triggering a safety sensor to cut the power. The most common reasons are a failed pump stopping water from moving or a blockage in the heat exchanger caused by a buildup of sludge and debris.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are fully openEnsure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 barAllow the boiler to cool down and then press the 'Reset' button

Est. cost
£100-£280
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)
Full guide for Gold Combi HE E110
08
E119 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system is too low to run safely.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal sensor detects that the water pressure has dropped below the minimum level required for the boiler to operate. The most common reason is a small leak somewhere in your radiator system or air being released through a valve, which reduces the overall volume of water. Without enough water pressure, the boiler shuts down to prevent the heat exchanger from overheating or becoming damaged.

What to try first

Locate the external or internal filling loop (usually silver flexible hoses with blue or black handles).Slowly open the valves until you hear water flowing into the boiler.Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly.The boiler should reset automatically, but you may need to press the 'R' or reset button if the code persists.

Est. cost
£0-160
Parts
Filling loop, Water pressure switch, Expansion vessel
Full guide for Gold Combi HE E119

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