Common problems guide

The most common Potterton boiler problems

The faults we see most often across the Potterton range — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs, and whether it's a DIY job or needs a Gas Safe engineer. Based on fault-code data across 44 Potterton boiler models.

575 unique codes
44 models covered
8 DIY-safe (top 8)
8 engineer needed

The most common Potterton faults

01
E10 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, which is usually fixed by topping up the system.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal sensor detects that there isn't enough water circulating in the system to operate safely. The most common reason is a gradual loss of pressure through tiny leaks or recently bled radiators, though it can also be caused by a faulty sensor or a failing expansion vessel.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.Slowly open the valves until you hear water entering the system.Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once it reaches 1.5 bar, then restart the boiler.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop, Water pressure switch, Expansion vessel
Full guide for Gold Combi HE E10
02
E110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally and needs to cool down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler reaches an unsafe temperature, triggering a safety switch to prevent damage. It is usually caused by a circulation failure, such as a seized internal pump or a blockage in the system prevents heat from being carried away quickly enough.

What to try first

Turn the boiler off and allow it to cool for at least 30 minutes.Check that your radiator valves are open and that the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar.Turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds and then back to your desired setting.

Est. cost
£100-£350
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump, Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
Full guide for Promax E110
03
E119 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low and needs topping up.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal water pressure drops below the minimum level required for the boiler to operate safely. The most common reasons are a slow leak from a radiator valve or pipework, or the air being released from the system through recent bleeding of the radiators.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.Slowly open the small valves at either end of the hose until you hear water flowing.Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar, then close both valves tightly.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop, Pressure sensor, Expansion vessel
Full guide for Promax E119
04
E125 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system correctly, which could be due to a blockage or a pump failure.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler detects that water is not moving quickly enough through the internal pipework to carry heat away, causing the system to protect itself from overheating. The most common reason is a failing internal pump that can no longer circulate the water, or a physical blockage caused by a build-up of debris and sludge within the system.

What to try first

Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gaugeEnsure all radiator valves are fully openCheck if any bypass valves are closed

Est. cost
£180-350
Parts
Circulating Pump, Diverter Valve, Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)
Full guide for Promax E125
05
E131 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has experienced a power cut or was switched off while it was already showing a different fault, causing it to lock itself out for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler loses electrical power—either due to a local power cut or someone switching off the fused spur—while it was already struggling with a different internal issue. Because the boiler was interrupted while trying to process an existing error, it enters a protective 'lockout' state to prevent you from accidentally running the system in an unsafe condition. It effectively gets stuck in a loop between the old error and the sudden loss of power.

What to try first

Locate the selector switch on the front of the boilerTurn the switch to the 'R' (Reset) position and hold it for at least five secondsTurn the switch back to the 'On' position and wait to see if a different fault code appears

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
No parts usually required for E131 itself, Printed Circuit Board (if fault persists)
Full guide for Promax HE Store E131
06
E133 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has failed to light, which is usually caused by a temporary interruption in the gas supply or a frozen condensate pipe.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler has tried to ignite several times but failed to detect a flame. The most common reason is a temporary interruption in the gas supply or a blockage in the pipe that carries away waste water. It can also be caused by wear and tear on the internal components that produce the spark or control the gas flow.

What to try first

Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly.If it is freezing outside, check the external plastic condensate pipe for ice and thaw it with warm water.Hold the reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Est. cost
£100-280
Parts
Gas Valve, Ignition Electrode, PCB
Full guide for Promax E133
07
E168 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical error that is preventing it from running safely, and it usually means the main control board is confused or failing.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal computer becomes confused or fails to monitor its own electronic signals correctly. The most common reason is a failing printed circuit board (PCB) that can no longer communicate with the boiler's components, often triggered by power surges or aging electrical components. In some cases, external electrical interference from a faulty pump or loose wiring can also cause the system to shut down for safety.

What to try first

Turn the boiler off at the main electrical switchWait 30 seconds before switching it back onPress and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds

Est. cost
£280-450
Parts
Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB), External Pump, Electrical Harness
Full guide for Promax E168
08
E193 High DIY-safe

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system properly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler is heating up too quickly because it isn't being pumped away fast enough. The most common reasons are a failed internal pump, a build-up of sludge blocking the pipes, or air trapped within the system that prevents smooth circulation.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are fully openEnsure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 barTry bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air

Est. cost
£150-350
Parts
Circulation pump, Automatic air vent, Flow/Return thermistors
Full guide for Promax E193