The 4 most common faults
Your boiler has no power and appears completely dead, likely due to an issue with the electricity supply or a blown fuse.
Check if other appliances in your home are working to rule out a general power cutCheck your main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has trippedCheck the fused spur switch next to the boiler is turned on and the fuse inside it hasn't blown
Your boiler has failed to light after several attempts and has locked itself for safety.
Check that your gas pre-pay meter has credit (if applicable).Ensure your gas stopcock is fully open.Turn the selector switch to the 'Reset' position for five seconds, then turn it back to the heating or hot water setting.
Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally and needs a manual reset to start again once it has cooled down.
Wait 30 minutes for the boiler to cool down completely.Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate.Turn the selector knob to the 'Reset' position for five seconds, then turn it back to the original setting.
Your boiler has detected an issue with the air fan system and has safely shut down to prevent poor combustion.
Full guide for Lights Flash On Onon the Potterton Gold Heat ErP
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Potterton shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue