Common problems guide

The most common Potterton Promax FSB 30HE problems

The faults most likely to send a Potterton Promax FSB 30HE into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
16 documented codes
6 most common
4 DIY-safe checks
2 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
Flame Failure (Red Light) High DIY-safe

Your boiler has tried to light but failed to stay on, meaning the system has shut down for safety until it is reset or repaired.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal sensor fails to detect a steady flame after several ignition attempts. The most common reasons include a lack of gas reaching the burner, dirty electrodes that can no longer spark correctly, or a faulty sensor that cannot 'see' the flame even if it has lit.

What to try first

Check that your gas supply is active (check other gas appliances like a hob)Press the Reset button on the front of the boiler for a few secondsEnsure your condensate pipe has not frozen if it is currently very cold outside

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Flame Sensing Probe, Gas Valve
Full guide for Flame Failure (Red Light)
02
On Off On Off * * On On High DIY-safe

Your boiler has shut down because it is unable to drain away the waste water it produces, causing a small internal reservoir to overflow.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal drainage system becomes blocked, preventing the waste water produced during heating from leaving the unit. The most common reason is a buildup of debris in the condensate trap or a failure of the mechanical pump that pushes the water away. To prevent internal flooding and damage, a safety switch triggers and shuts the boiler down until the water level drops.

What to try first

Locate the external white plastic drainage pipe and check if it has frozen or is blocked with debris.If frozen, gently pour warm (not boiling) water over the pipe to melt the ice block.Check that the condensate pump (if fitted) is plugged in and switched on.

Est. cost
£100-220
Parts
Condensate pump, Condensate trap, External discharge pipework
Full guide for On Off On Off * * On On
03
On Off On Off High DIY-safe

Your boiler has shut down because water intended for your drain is backing up and has triggered a safety sensor.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal tank that collects waste water becomes full and cannot empty itself properly. The most common reasons are a mechanical failure of the condensate pump or a blockage in the thin plastic discharge pipe leading away from the boiler. To prevent an internal flood, a safety sensor triggers and shuts the system down until the water level drops.

What to try first

Check if the condensate pump is plugged in and turned on at the wall.Inspect the thin plastic pipe leading from the pump for any kinks or blockages.If the weather is freezing, check if the external waste pipe is frozen and thaw it with warm (not boiling) water.

Est. cost
£100-220
Parts
Condensate Pump, Condensate Discharge Pipework
Full guide for On Off On Off
04
FAN LOCKOUT High Engineer

Your boiler's fan, which safely clears exhaust gases from the unit, has stopped spinning correctly and prevented the system from firing up.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's control board tries to start the fan but doesn't receive the correct signal that it is spinning at the right speed. The most common reasons are a build-up of debris causing the fan to seize or an electrical failure within the fan's motor or the main circuit board. Without the fan running correctly, the boiler cannot safely remove exhaust gases, so it shut downs for safety.

Est. cost
£250-£450
Parts
Fan Assembly, Main PCB, Wiring Harness
Full guide for FAN LOCKOUT
05
THERMISTOR High Engineer

Your boiler's internal temperature sensor has stopped sending a reliable signal, which means the system cannot safely monitor how hot the water is getting.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal thermometer, called a thermistor, fails to measure the water temperature correctly. The most common reason is that the sensor has physically degraded over time or developed an electrical short, though it can also be caused by loose or corroded wiring to the main control board.

Est. cost
£90-160
Parts
NTC Thermistor, Wiring Harness, Main PCB
Full guide for THERMISTOR
06
On Off * * High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the pipe that drains away waste water is blocked, causing the system to temporarily shut down to prevent internal damage.

What to try first

Locate the plastic condensate pipe exiting your boiler or property near the exterior wall.Check the end of the pipe outside for blockages like ice, leaves, or debris.If the pipe is frozen, pour warm (not boiling) water over the frozen section to thaw it out.Reset your boiler using the reset button on the control panel.

Est. cost
£80-150
Parts
Condensate pump, Condensate trap, Float switch
Full guide for On Off * *

on the Potterton Promax FSB 30HE

Ignition ElectrodeFlame Sensing ProbeGas ValvePCBCondensate pumpCondensate trap

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Potterton shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 16-code list for the Potterton Promax FSB 30HE