The 6 most common faults
Your boiler is not receiving any electrical power, which could be due to a tripped switch or an internal fuse failure.
Check if your home's main fuse box has tripped a circuit breaker.Ensure the boiler's isolation switch (fused spur) is turned on.Try replacing the 3-amp fuse in the external boiler switch if you are comfortable doing so.
Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, likely triggered by a safety switch to prevent damage.
Turn off the power supply to the boiler.Allow the boiler to cool down completely for at least 20 minutes.Locate the reset button (usually behind the small plastic cover or on the control panel) and press it firmly.Restart the boiler and check if the radiators are bled of air.
Your boiler has detected an issue with how it moves air and exhaust gases, which has caused it to stop running for safety.
Full guide for neon 3 not litYour boiler has failed to light the gas flame or cannot detect that it is lit, so it has shut down as a safety precaution.
Full guide for neon 4 not litYour boiler has detected a communication failure between its main computer and the firing controls, causing all the lights to stay on and the heating to stop working.
Full guide for Main burner not operating (all neons lit)Your boiler has stopped working because it is not receiving the necessary electrical power or an internal electrical safety fuse has blown.
Full guide for F1on the Protherm 40-50 CI
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Protherm shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue