BoilerFaultCodes
The most common Protherm faults
Your boiler is not receiving any electrical power, which could be due to a tripped switch or an internal fuse failure.
Check if your home's main fuse box has tripped a circuit breaker.Ensure the boiler's isolation switch (fused spur) is turned on.Try replacing the 3-amp fuse in the external boiler switch if you are comfortable doing so.
Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, likely triggered by a safety switch to prevent damage.
Turn off the power supply to the boiler.Allow the boiler to cool down completely for at least 20 minutes.Locate the reset button (usually behind the small plastic cover or on the control panel) and press it firmly.Restart the boiler and check if the radiators are bled of air.
Your boiler has safely shut itself down because it failed to ignite, meaning you currently have no heating or hot water.
Full guide for 100EC F1Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low or there is trapped air.
Locate the filling loop valves underneath your boiler.Open the valves slowly to let water in until the pressure gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar.Close the valves tightly and restart your boiler.
Your boiler has temporarily stopped working because the water temperature inside the system has dropped too low or a sensor has stopped reading it correctly.
Full guide for 100EC F2Your boiler has stopped working because scale or debris has built up and blocked the internal heat exchanger.
Full guide for 100EC F3Your boiler has detected an issue with how it moves air and exhaust gases, which has caused it to stop running for safety.
Full guide for 40-50 CI neon 3 not litYour boiler has failed to light the gas flame or cannot detect that it is lit, so it has shut down as a safety precaution.
Full guide for 40-50 CI neon 4 not litAvoid the next call-out bill
Monthly cover means no unexpected bills when your boiler breaks down.
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