Common problems guide

The most common Protherm boiler problems

The faults we see most often across the Protherm range — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs, and whether it's a DIY job or needs a Gas Safe engineer. Based on fault-code data across 2 Protherm boiler models.

10 unique codes
2 models covered
4 DIY-safe (top 8)
8 engineer needed

The most common Protherm faults

01
F0 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.Slowly open the tap or taps on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the taps fully.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop valve, Pressure sensor, Expansion vessel
Full guide for 100EC F0
02
F1 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has failed to light or has lost its flame, so it has shut down for safety purposes.

What to try first

Check if your gas meter has credit and the gas supply to the house is turned onCheck if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctlyPress the reset button on the front of the boiler to try and restart it

Est. cost
£100-280
Parts
Ignition electrode, Gas valve, PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
Full guide for 100EC F1
03
neon 1 not lit High DIY-safe

Your boiler is not receiving any electrical power, which could be due to a tripped switch or an internal fuse failure.

What to try first

Check if your home's main fuse box has tripped a circuit breaker.Ensure the boiler's isolation switch (fused spur) is turned on.Try replacing the 3-amp fuse in the external boiler switch if you are comfortable doing so.

Est. cost
£90-350
Parts
Internal PCB fuse, Printed Circuit Board (PCB), External Fused Spur
Full guide for 40-50 CI neon 1 not lit
04
neon 2 not lit High DIY-safe

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, likely triggered by a safety switch to prevent damage.

What to try first

Turn off the power supply to the boiler.Allow the boiler to cool down completely for at least 20 minutes.Locate the reset button (usually behind the small plastic cover or on the control panel) and press it firmly.Restart the boiler and check if the radiators are bled of air.

Est. cost
£90-180
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Limit Stat, Circulation Pump
Full guide for 40-50 CI neon 2 not lit
05
F2 High Engineer

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water inside the pipes.

Est. cost
£90-160
Parts
NTC Temperature Sensor, Wiring Harness
Full guide for 100EC F2
06
F3 High Engineer

Your boiler is unable to circulate water properly through its internal heating system, causing it to shut down for safety.

Est. cost
£150-350
Parts
Primary heat exchanger, System filter, Central heating pump
Full guide for 100EC F3
07
neon 3 not lit High Engineer

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it moves air and exhaust gases, which has caused it to stop running for safety.

Est. cost
£120-280
Parts
Fan assembly, Air pressure switch, Venturi tube
Full guide for 40-50 CI neon 3 not lit
08
neon 4 not lit High Engineer

Your boiler has failed to light the gas flame or cannot detect that it is lit, so it has shut down as a safety precaution.

Est. cost
£120-300
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Flame Sensing Probe
Full guide for 40-50 CI neon 4 not lit

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