Common problems guide

The most common Ravenheat 120 problems

The faults most likely to send a Ravenheat 120 into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
49 documented codes
6 most common
6 DIY-safe checks
0 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
01 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has failed to light and has shut itself down for safety, meaning you currently have no heating or hot water.

What to try first

Check that your gas pre-pay meter has credit (if applicable)Check that other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas supplyPress the reset button on the boiler control panel for 5 seconds

Est. cost
£140-£380
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for 01
02
28 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water circulating through the system or the pressure is too low to operate safely.

What to try first

Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.If the pressure is low, use the external filling loop to top up the water level.Check that all radiator valves are open and that the pump is not making loud banging noises.

Est. cost
£120-280
Parts
Low water pressure switch, Circulation pump, Expansion vessel recharge
Full guide for 28
03
02 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped running because it has detected an unusual temperature reading and needs to be restarted.

What to try first

Locate the reset button or selector switch on the front control panel.Turn the switch to the 'R' (Reset) position for a few seconds and then back to 'On'.Wait for the boiler to complete its startup sequence to see if the heating or hot water returns.

Est. cost
£100-220
Parts
Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor), Wiring harness
Full guide for 02
04
E08 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system is too low and needs to be topped up.

What to try first

Locate the silver filling loop (braided hose) usually found underneath the boiler.Gradually open the one or two small valves on the loop until you hear water entering.Monitor the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop valve, Expansion vessel, Pressure sensor
Full guide for E08
05
E09 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has sensed that it is becoming too hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage to the internal components.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulateEnsure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the pressure gaugeAllow the boiler to cool down for 20 minutes and then press the reset button

Est. cost
£100-280
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger Flush
Full guide for E09
06
E13 High DIY-safe

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a glitch or software failure that is preventing it from running correctly.

What to try first

Turn the boiler off at the main electrical switchWait for 30 secondsTurn the switch back on and press the 'Reset' button

Est. cost
£180-350
Parts
Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for E13

on the Ravenheat 120

Ignition ElectrodeGas ValvePrinted Circuit Board (PCB)FanLow water pressure switchCirculation pump

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Ravenheat shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 49-code list for the Ravenheat 120