The 6 most common faults
Your boiler has stopped working because the internal water pressure has dropped too low to operate safely.
Locate the filling loop (a flexible metal hose with one or two valves) underneath the boiler.Open the valve(s) slowly to allow cold mains water into the system.Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).Close the valve(s) tightly and ensure no water is leaking from the connection.
Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect enough water pressure inside the system to operate safely.
Check the pressure gauge on the front of your boiler to see if it is below 1.0 bar.If low, use your internal filling loop or external key to top up the system pressure to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Turn the boiler off and back on again to clear the fault code.
Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light or stay lit, meaning it is currently unable to provide heating or hot water.
Full guide for E1Your boiler has detected an issue with the internal air circulation fan, which is preventing it from safely lighting and operating.
Full guide for 17Your boiler is failing to light the flame needed to produce heat or hot water, meaning it has safely shut itself down to prevent a gas buildup.
Full guide for 01Your boiler has detected that the water temperature is not rising as expected, likely because of a faulty sensor or a problem with water flowing through the system.
Full guide for 12on the Ravenheat White Heat WH 80/90
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Ravenheat shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue