Worcester Bosch Danesmoor Fault codes & diagnostics

151 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Regular Oil 12-32 kW 1970-present

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
4 Emergency 114 High 5 Medium 28 Low

All 151 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Fast flash

Your boiler has stopped running because it has detected a technical fault with a internal control component or the fan system.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Code Plug
  • Fan Assembly
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
2 pulses

Your boiler's internal settings may have been left in a testing mode used by engineers, preventing it from heating your home normally.

High DIY-safe £0-90

What to check first

  1. Locate the service mode switch or dial on the internal control panel
  2. Ensure the switch is turned back to the 'Normal' or 'Minimum' position
  3. Press the reset button to clear the fault light
5 pulses

Your boiler has been left in a manual testing mode, which prevents it from operating normally to heat your home.

Medium DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the control panel on the front of the boiler.
  2. Find the service switch, which may be behind a small flap.
  3. Ensure the switch is turned back to the 'Normal' or 'Off' position rather than 'Max' or 'Min'.

Related codes

9A 361

Your boiler’s internal computer components are not communicating correctly because they appear to be mismatched or incompatible with each other.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)

Related codes

9A 362

Your boiler's internal computer module is either incorrectly installed or is the wrong version for this specific model, causing the system to shut down.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM (Heat Control Module)
  • PCB (Main Control Board)

Related codes

9U 233

Your boiler's computer memory chip is not communicating correctly with the main control board, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Code Plug (HCM)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
200

Your boiler is operating normally and is currently working to heat your radiators.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a status indicator rather than a fault.
  2. Check your thermostat settings if you did not expect the heating to be on.
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are open to allow the heat to circulate.

Related codes

200 O

Your boiler is operating normally and is currently working to heat your radiators.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action required
  2. Ensure your thermostat is set to your desired temperature
  3. Monitor the system to ensure radiators are warming up as expected

Related codes

201

Your boiler is currently focused on heating your hot water taps rather than your radiators, which is a normal operating status rather than a fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to finish heating your hot water
  2. Check that your hot water taps are fully turned off
  3. Check your programmer or thermostat settings to ensure heating is requested

Related codes

201 O

Your boiler is simply letting you know that it is currently busy heating up your hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a status update rather than a fault.
  2. Wait for the boiler to finish heating the water and the code should disappear.
  3. Check your hot water timer or thermostat settings if the boiler stays in this mode longer than expected.

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 151
202

Your boiler is working normally; it has received a signal to turn on and is currently going through its startup sequence to provide heat.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat is set to the desired temperature
  2. Ensure your programmer or smart heating app is set to an 'On' period
  3. Wait a few minutes for the boiler to complete its internal checks and fire up

Related codes

202 O

Your boiler has reached its required temperature and is taking a short, normal break to prevent itself from switching on and off too frequently.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait 15 to 30 minutes for the timer to elapse
  2. Check that your room thermostat is turned up high enough to call for heat
  3. Ensure radiator valves are open to allow heat to dissipate

Related codes

203

Your boiler is currently pulse-checking and waiting for a signal to start, meaning it is powered on but not being asked to provide heating or hot water right now.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to an 'ON' period
  3. Check that the thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) are turned up

Related codes

203 0

Your boiler is working correctly and is simply waiting for your thermostat or programmer to tell it to turn on.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure your programmer or heating timer is set to an 'ON' period.
  3. Check that your wireless thermostat has working batteries and a clear connection to the boiler.

Related codes

204

Your boiler is temporarily pausing because the water inside it has already reached the required heat and needs a moment to cool down before firing up again.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure at least two radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open to allow heat to circulate
  3. Wait 15 minutes for the system to cool down and restart automatically

Parts commonly replaced

  • None - usually normal operation
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

204 O

Your boiler has stopped because the water inside it has become hotter than the temperature you have set.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open to allow heat to circulate
  2. Ensure the external heating pump is running and hasn't seized
  3. Wait for the unit to cool down and try resetting the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

208

Your boiler is currently running at maximum power for a flue test and will return to normal operation automatically after a short period.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait 15 minutes for the test mode to time out automatically
  2. Press the 'Reset' or 'Back' button to exit the mode manually
  3. Switch the boiler off and back on at the fused spur if the mode persists

Related codes

208 0

Your boiler is currently stuck in a manual test mode used by engineers to check emissions, meaning it won't respond to your normal heating settings.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the button with a chimney sweep (small brush) icon or 'Test' button on the control panel.
  2. Press and hold the button for a few seconds until the light or code disappears.
  3. Switch the boiler off at the fused spur switch for 30 seconds and turn it back on to reset the software.
212

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside is heating up faster than it can be circulated away.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the pressure gauge
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing/cleaning)
224 V

Your boiler has overheated because the water pressure is too low, and it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose under or near the boiler)
  2. Slowly open the valves to top up the water until the pressure gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button on the control panel to restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Pressure top-up only)
  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 151
226

Your boiler has recorded that a technician's diagnostic tool was recently plugged into the control system's error history memory.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds
  2. Switch the main electrical power to the boiler off and back on again
  3. If the code persists, it simply indicates the system is in service mode and should clear automatically
227 V

Your boiler is failing to light the fuel, meaning it cannot create the flame needed to provide you with heating and hot water.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check that you have fuel in your oil tank
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve/lever is in the open position
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Oil pump
  • Burner control unit
  • Oil nozzle

Related codes

228 V

Your boiler thinks a flame is burning even though it hasn't ignited yet, which points to an electrical or internal component error.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation cable
  • Air/gas ratio control valve
  • Burner control box

Related codes

235

Your boiler's internal computer chips are using different software versions that cannot communicate with each other, preventing the boiler from starting.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
260

Your boiler has started up, but it cannot detect the water getting any warmer, so it has shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves (lockshields) are open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are turned to the highest setting
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  4. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • External System Filter

Related codes

265

Your boiler is temporarily reducing its power because it has reached the required temperature and is waiting for the heating system to catch up.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow heat to circulate
  2. Inspect the central heating filter for any blockages
  3. Ensure the room thermostat is set high enough to call for heat

Parts commonly replaced

  • External heating filter
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

268

Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic check to ensure all parts are working correctly, which typically happens during startup or a reset.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for up to 5 minutes to see if the code clears automatically as the test finishes
  2. If the code persists, try resetting the boiler using the reset button or dial
  3. Ensure any external controls or thermostats are calling for heat

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Control PCB

Related codes

270

Your boiler is working normally and is simply increasing its power to meet the heating demand.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action required
  2. Monitor the system to ensure it reaches temperature
  3. Ensure radiator valves are open

Related codes

283

Your boiler is currently going through its normal startup sequence and is getting ready to light the burner.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait a few minutes for the startup sequence to complete
  2. Check if your thermostat is calling for heat
  3. Monitor the display to see if it transitions to a normal operating temperature

Related codes

284

Your boiler has stopped running because it detected an internal electrical mismatch involving the gas control valve.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 151
305

Your boiler is temporarily paused because it is waiting for your hot water demand to finish before it switches back to providing central heating.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Turn off any running hot water taps
  2. Check if any hot water outlets are dripping
  3. Wait a few minutes for the boiler to automatically switch back to heating mode

Parts commonly replaced

  • Diverter valve
  • DHW flow sensor
305 0

Your boiler is temporarily pausing its hot water production to prevent itself from overheating or switching on and off too frequently.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for 5 to 10 minutes as this is often a normal operational pause.
  2. Ensure your hot water taps are fully turned off.
  3. Check that your hot water temperature dial is not set to the maximum position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (normal operation)
  • DHW Temperature Sensor
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

306 V

Your boiler is still detecting a flame even after it has tried to shut off the fuel, which usually means a valve is stuck open or a sensor is malfunctioning.

Emergency Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil solenoid valve
  • Photocell
  • Oil pump

Related codes

328

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical power supply coming into your home, which is preventing it from starting up safely.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Mains Surge Protector

Related codes

356

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power from the mains supply to operate safely and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External Voltage Regulator

Related codes

360

Your boiler's internal computer chip does not match the main control board, preventing the system from operating correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
360 V

Your boiler’s internal computer chip is either missing, loose, or does not match the control board, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM (Heating Code Plug)
  • PCB (Main Control Board)

Related codes

815 W/B

Your boiler's temperature sensor is sending incorrect information or is incorrectly positioned, preventing the system from managing heat flow properly.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low loss header temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

1010 O

Your boiler has lost its internal connection to its controls or smart thermostat system, meaning it cannot receive the signals it needs to run.

High Engineer only £95-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • EMS Bus Wiring
  • Fuses
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
1017 W

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely and has stopped working.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal or external filling link (braided hose) under or near the boiler
  2. Slowly open the small valve handles until you hear water flowing
  3. Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
Showing 41–50 of 151
1021 B

Your boiler is unable to measure the temperature of your hot water, which means it cannot heat it safely or effectively.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

1022 B

Your boiler is struggling to monitor the temperature of your hot water, which usually means it cannot heat your water correctly.

Medium Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water storage temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

1037 W

Your boiler's outdoor thermometer is not communicating correctly, which means the system cannot adjust its heating power based on the weather outside.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
1065 B

Your boiler's internal computer can't tell how much water pressure is in the system because a vital sensor has either come loose or stopped working.

High Engineer only £140-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
1068 W

Your boiler has lost its connection to the outdoor thermometer, meaning it may not know how hard it needs to work to heat your home efficiently.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • External sensor wiring
1073 W

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors water temperature has developed an electrical fault and can no longer report how hot the system is.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

1074 W

Your boiler has lost communication with the internal thermometer that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

1075 W

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with its internal temperature sensor, preventing it from heating up safely.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

1076 W

Your boiler's main internal thermometer is failing to communicate with the brain of the system, meaning the boiler has shut down to avoid overheating.

High Engineer only £140-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
  • Heatronic Control Board

Related codes

2920 V

Your boiler is struggling to detect if the burner has successfully lit, which is preventing the system from running safely.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Photo-electric cell
  • Control box
Showing 51–60 of 151
2924 V

Your boiler's control system has lost communication with the gas supply valve, meaning the unit cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Modulating Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

2925 V

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer cannot communicate properly with the valve that controls the fuel flow.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Modulating Gas Valve
  • Main PCB (Control Board)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

2927 B

Your boiler's flame has gone out while it was running, meaning the system has shut down because it can no longer generate heat.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Burner control unit
  • Photocell

Related codes

2946 V

Your boiler's internal computer memory chip is incorrect or faulty, meaning the system doesn't recognise which model it is supposed to be.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM Code Plug
  • Boiler Control Board (PCB)
2948 B

Your boiler is struggling to detect a flame and is failing to stay alight properly, which usually indicates an issue with the fuel supply or the burner settings.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Oil nozzle
  • Oil pump
  • Burner control box
2950 B

Your boiler is failing to light the fuel properly, which is preventing your heating and hot water from working.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrode
  • Oil pump
2963 B

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor is not communicating properly, meaning the system cannot safely monitor how hot the water is getting.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Heat Exchanger Sensor
2964 B

Your boiler is struggling to move water through its main heating unit properly, which stops it from working to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Primary Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

2965 B

Your boiler has stopped running because the water inside it has become too hot, which is a safety measure to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open to allow water to circulate.
  2. Ensure there is no air trapped in the system by bleeding your radiators.
  3. Verify that the system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

2966 B

Your boiler is heating up too quickly, which usually means the water isn't moving through the system fast enough to take the heat away.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Check for any visible leaks around the boiler or pipework

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing/cleaning)

Related codes

Showing 61–70 of 151
2967 B

Your boiler has sensed a sudden, large difference in temperature between two sensors, which usually means water isn't moving through the system quickly enough to take the heat away.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Check if the condensate pipe is frozen if it is currently winter
  4. Reset the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow/Return Thermistor
  • Primary Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

2970 B

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your heating pipes is falling much faster than expected, which usually points to a significant leak.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check all visible radiators and pipework for signs of a water leak
  2. Top up the system pressure until the gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Monitor the gauge closely to see if the pressure drops again immediately

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

2971 B

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the heating system is too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal or external filling loop (braided silver hose)
  2. Slowly open the valves to let water in until the pressure gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Ensure the valves are tightly closed and check if the fault code clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

A1

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water circulating through the system, which could be due to a leak or a pump that has seized up.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Pump Washers
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

A1 281

Your boiler is unable to move water around the system, usually because the pump is jammed or there is too much air trapped inside it.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Bleed all radiators in the house to ensure no air is trapped in the network.
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the pump clears the blockage during its startup cycle.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Auto Air Vent
A3 317

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
A7

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has stopped working correctly, meaning your system cannot reliably tell how hot the water is.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

A8

Your boiler has lost its connection with your external thermostat or heating controls, meaning it isn't receiving the signal to turn on or off.

High Engineer only £90-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • FX Intelligent Control
  • Wiring harness
  • Receiver unit
  • Internal PCB

Related codes

A8 362

Your boiler is receiving an unstable or weak electrical supply, which is preventing its control computer from working correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • PCB (Main Circuit Board)
  • Power Cable Connections
B1

Your boiler's internal computer is having trouble reading a small memory chip that tells it exactly which model it is.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM Code Plug
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
Showing 71–80 of 151
B7 257

Your boiler’s internal computer has encountered a critical error and cannot communicate properly, causing the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box

Related codes

C1 264

Your boiler has shut down because the internal fan has stopped or it cannot reliably detect the necessary air flow to stay running safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

C4 237

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main Transformer
  • Electronic Control Box

Related codes

C4 273

Your boiler's safety system is detecting air movement when the fan should be off, which is usually caused by strong winds or a blocked exhaust pipe.

Low DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check the external flue pipe (exhaust) for any obstructions like bird nests, leaves, or debris
  2. Ensure there are no items leaning against the flue terminal outside
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel once

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Flue Guard
  • Fan
C6

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal fan isn't spinning fast enough to safely clear away exhaust fumes.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extractor Fan
  • Fan Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

C6 215

Your boiler's fan is spinning faster than it should, which has caused the system to shut down for safety purposes.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C6 216

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan isn't spinning fast enough to safely clear away exhaust fumes.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Venturi tube

Related codes

C7 214

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that clears away exhaust fumes isn't spinning or starting up properly.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extractor Fan
  • Fan Capacitor
  • Main Control Board

Related codes

C7 216

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan isn't spinning fast enough to safely clear away exhaust fumes.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extractor Fan
  • Fan Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

C7 217

Your boiler has shut down because a vital internal fan that clears exhaust gases has stopped spinning while the heating was running.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extraction Fan
  • Fan Wiring Harness
  • Control Box

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 151
CC 800

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor that measures the temperature outside, which helps it run more efficiently.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

CE 207

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water in the system, usually caused by a small leak or air being bled from your radiators.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal or external filling loop (the silver braided hose)
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves to let water into the system
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

CE 266

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal pump that moves water through the system is not starting or circulating correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

D1 240

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that measures the temperature of the water coming back into the system, which is usually caused by a faulty or damp component.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

D1 241

Your boiler has stopped working because it has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

D3 232

An external safety device or thermostat has stopped the boiler from running to prevent potential damage or overheating.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check if your external room thermostat or programmer is turned up and calling for heat
  2. Inspect any visible safety devices, such as a condensate pump, to see if they are full of water or blocked
  3. Ensure there are no loose wires visible on external controls, but do not open the boiler casing

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Room Thermostat
  • Condensate Pump
  • Wiring link

Related codes

D4 213

Your boiler is heating up much faster than it should, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Check if the condensate pipe is frozen (if it is winter)
  4. Reset the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Return Temperature Sensor

Related codes

D4 271

Your boiler has sensed that the water inside is heating up too quickly or isn't circulating properly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your heating system pressure has dropped and top it up if necessary
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)

Related codes

D4 286

Your boiler has detected that the water returning to the unit is dangerously hot, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation pump
  • Main PCB

Related codes

D4 341

Your boiler is heating up too quickly, which usually means the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating pump is running if accessible
  3. Check that building power hasn't been interrupted recently

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (de-flushing)

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 151
E2

Your boiler's temperature sensor for the heating system has stopped communicating correctly, meaning the system cannot safely monitor how hot the water is.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • CH Flow NTC Sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E2 222

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £140-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E2 223

Your boiler has lost connection with the sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

E2 233

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, meaning it cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board connector

Related codes

E2 350

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature NTC sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E2 351

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot communicate with the part that monitors the temperature of the water flowing to your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E5 218

Your boiler has stopped running because the water inside has become much too hot, suggesting it isn't moving through the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your thermostat is not set unnecessarily high
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top it up if it is below 1.0 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing/descale)
E9

Your boiler has overheated because the internal temperature reached a safety limit, causing the system to shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your heating system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to flow freely
  3. Once the boiler has cooled down, attempt to reset the system using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat (Limit Switch)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
E9 210

Your boiler has shut down because a safety sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are becoming too hot.

High Engineer only £140-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas sensor
  • Main heat exchanger cleaning
  • Overheat thermostat

Related codes

E9 219

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected an dangerously high temperature or a fault with its internal safety monitoring system.

High Engineer only £120-240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Safety Temperature Limiter
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 151
E9 220

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected an unsafe level of overheating or a critical electrical fault with its safety sensors.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Safety Temperature Limiter
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E9 224

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that the exhaust gases have become dangerously hot.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas thermostat
  • Heat exchanger (cleaning/descaling)
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

E9 276

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage or overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your internal heating valves or radiator valves are open.
  2. Check if the system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar; top up if low.
  3. Press the reset button to see if the fault clears after the system cools down.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)

Related codes

E9 277

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected internal temperatures that are too high, causing it to overheat for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)

Related codes

E9 285

Your boiler has shut down because the water coming back into the unit is far too hot, suggesting it is overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your main heating pump is running and hasn't seized
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and internal bypass valves are fully open
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  4. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Central Heating Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

E9 318

Your boiler has shut down because it can no longer detect the temperature of the exhaust gases, usually due to a loose wire or a faulty internal sensor.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main circuit board (PCB)

Related codes

EA

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the fuel it needs to provide heating and hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your fuel tank has run out of oil
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve is fully open
  3. Press the reset button once to try and restart the ignition process

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensor (Photocell)
  • Oil pump
  • Ignition transformer

Related codes

EA 227

Your boiler has tried to light but cannot find a steady flame, meaning it has shut down to prevent unburnt oil from building up.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your external oil tank has run out of fuel
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve on the tank is fully open
  3. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel once

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell (Flame Sensor)
  • Oil Pump
  • Oil Nozzle
  • Ignition Transformer

Related codes

EA 229

Your boiler was working but the flame has unexpectedly gone out, causing the system to stop as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Check that you have not run out of heating oil in your storage tank
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve is fully open
  3. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel once

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell (Flame sensor)
  • Oil pump
  • Flexible oil hose

Related codes

EA 234

Your boiler has lost its connection to the fuel control system, meaning it cannot light the flame to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £160-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 151
EA 261

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a memory or communication error and cannot operate until it is refreshed.

High DIY-safe £280-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or dial on the boiler control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence to see if the error clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

EA 269

Your boiler is trying to start up but is failing to light the fuel within the safe time limit, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your heating oil tank has enough fuel
  2. Ensure the oil supply valves are fully open
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Oil nozzle
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Oil pump

Related codes

EC 256

Your boiler's computer system has detected an internal electronic fault and has stopped the burner from firing for safety.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Box
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
EF 349

Your boiler has slowed down because it is struggling to circulate water quickly enough through your radiators.

Medium DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow/Return thermistors
  • Central heating filter (cleaning)

Related codes

EH 258

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious communication fault or hardware failure, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

F0

Your boiler's internal computer is experiencing a communication failure with its electrical components, preventing it from starting up correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Programmer interface module
  • Ignition leads
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F0 237

Your boiler has experienced an internal computer glitch where the main control board has lost communication or failed its internal checks.

High DIY-safe £250-450

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler off at the fused spur switch
  2. Wait for 30 seconds
  3. Turn the power back on and press the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

F0 238

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical fault with the components that control the fuel supply, meaning it cannot ignite safely.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil pump solenoid
  • Gas valve
  • Control box (PCB)

Related codes

F0 239

Your boiler's computer brain has malfunctioned or lost connection, meaning it cannot process commands to provide heating and hot water.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Full Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F0 242

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a communication fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £250-£580

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB
  • Control Box Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 121–130 of 151
F0 258

Your boiler's internal computer or control hub has developed a fault and is unable to manage the heating process.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main Control Box

Related codes

F0 262

Your boiler's internal computer or control hub has developed a fault and is unable to communicate properly with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Control Box (PCB)

Related codes

F0 272

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault or is not communicating properly with the main system, preventing the heater from starting.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Control Box
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F0 278

Your boiler's internal computer has detected a communication problem with its safety sensors and has shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F0 279

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious communication fault and can no longer safely operate the heating system.

High Engineer only £350-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • KIM (Configuration Module)

Related codes

F0 280

Your boiler's internal computer brain or its connection chip has developed a fault or shifted out of place, causing the system to shut down.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main Control Box (PCB)

Related codes

F0 287

Your boiler's electronic brains have developed a communication error or internal fault, preventing it from starting safely.

High Engineer only £250-£580

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Box
  • KIM (Key Identification Module)
  • Evo main PCB

Related codes

F0 290

Your boiler's internal computer has lost communication with its control module, meaning the system cannot start or operate safely.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Cell Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F1 259

Your boiler's internal computer or control unit has encountered a serious communication error and can no longer safely operate the system.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Control Box
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F1 263

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a communication fault or an electronic failure, meaning it cannot control the heating process.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Control Box
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 131–140 of 151
F7

Your boiler thinks it can see a flame when it shouldn't be running, which is likely caused by moisture or a sensor error.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Photocell
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F7 228

Your boiler thinks a flame is present when it shouldn't be, which is preventing the heating system from starting up safely.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photo-electric cell (Flame sensor)
  • Oil pump solenoid
  • Control box

Related codes

F7 328

Your boiler has experienced a temporary interruption in its electrical supply, similar to a brief power cut, and has paused operation as a safety precaution.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the boiler control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for 3 to 5 seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to restart and check if the error clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset usually sufficient)
  • Wiring harness (if fault persists)
  • PCB (if power surge damage occurred)

Related codes

FA

Your boiler is still detecting a flame even though it has tried to turn the fuel off, which requires an immediate inspection for safety.

Emergency Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensor
  • Control board

Related codes

FA 306

Your boiler thinks it still sees a fire inside the burner even though it has commanded the system to turn off.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell
  • Oil pump solenoid
  • Control box

Related codes

FA 364

Your boiler has detected a potential internal gas leak within the valve system and has shut down for safety.

Emergency Engineer only £280-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Control Box
  • Burner Seals

Related codes

FB 365

Your boiler has detected a potential internal fuel leak during its safety check, which prevents it from starting up to ensure your safety.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Burner control box
  • EV1 Solenoid

Related codes

FD

Your boiler is displaying a status code because the reset button was pressed accidentally or for too long.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the control panel.
  2. Press the reset button once firmly.
  3. Wait for the boiler to clear the code and restart its normal operation.
FD 231

Your boiler has lost its connection to the main electricity supply, which is preventing it from starting up or continuing to run.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Check your home's main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if any circuit breakers have tripped.
  2. Ensure the boiler's power switch or fused spur next to the appliance is turned on.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by pressing and holding the reset button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal Fuse
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Fused Spur

Related codes

H07

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low, which means it cannot provide heat or hot water properly until the system is topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose with one or two small taps.
  2. Open the tap(s) slowly to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the taps firmly once the gauge needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
Showing 141–150 of 151
HrE

Your boiler is experiencing a critical control system error that causes it to shut down and attempt to restart itself repeatedly.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Internal wiring harness
Light off

Your boiler is currently idle because your thermostat or timer hasn't told it to turn on for heating or hot water.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your programmer or timer is set to an 'On' period
  3. Check if the fused spur switch next to the boiler is turned on

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Room Thermostat
  • Programmer/Timer
  • Control Wiring

Related codes

Light on

Your boiler is receiving a signal to provide heating and is currently operating exactly as it should.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat is set to the temperature you want
  2. Monitor the radiators to ensure they are getting warm
  3. No action is required as this is a status indicator rather than a fault code
NO CODE 212

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside it is heating up much more quickly than it can be moved around your radiators.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the internal gauge
  3. Remove any air from the system by bleeding your radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled up)

Related codes

No light

Your boiler has lost power and the display or indicator light is completely dark, meaning it cannot start the heating process.

High DIY-safe £70-350

What to check first

  1. Check if the main boiler power switch or fused spur next to the unit is turned on
  2. Inspect your home's consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped
  3. Check if the fuse in the boiler's external wall switch has blown and needs replacing

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control board fuse
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Transformer
rE

Your boiler is currently performing a restart process after a fault has been detected or the reset button has been pressed.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for up to 30 seconds for the reset process to complete
  2. Check if any other fault codes appear after the reset finishes
  3. Ensure the fuel supply (oil tank) is not empty

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Normal operation)
  • Control Box
  • Photocell
T1

Your boiler is currently testing if it can create a spark to light the burner as part of its normal startup process.

Low DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 30 seconds to see if the code clears and the boiler starts
  2. Check that you have an adequate supply of heating oil in your tank
  3. Ensure the oil supply valve is fully open

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Ignition Transformer
  • Oil Nozzle

Related codes

T2

Your boiler's internal cooling or exhaust fan is not starting correctly, which means the system cannot safely begin the heating process.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Control board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

T3

Your boiler is performing a routine self-check on the internal pump to ensure water can circulate properly through the system.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the check to complete as this is often a normal automated process
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water flow
  3. Check if the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Flow pipe sensor

Related codes

T4

Your boiler is having trouble directing heated water to the correct place, which usually means the internal valve that switches between heating and hot water has stuck during a self-test.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3-way diverter valve
  • Valve actuator motor

Related codes

Showing 151–151 of 151
T6

Your boiler's electronic control system is failing to correctly test its flame detection circuit, meaning the system cannot safely confirm if the fuel is burning.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box

Related codes