Worcester Bosch Junior 24i Fault codes & diagnostics

151 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24 kW 2007-2012 Discontinued

Replaced by: Greenstar i Junior

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
5 Emergency 114 High 7 Medium 25 Low

All 151 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Fast flash

Your boiler has stopped working because of a communication error between its internal sensors and the main control board.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • PCB (Main Control Board)
  • Code Plug
2 pulses

Your boiler has been left in a manual testing mode after a service, which is preventing it from running at normal power.

Medium DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the two small control knobs on the front of the boiler used for temperature.
  2. Check the small white switch or dial often used by engineers during a service.
  3. Ensure both temperature dials are set to their normal operating positions and not turned fully to the 'minimum' or 'test' icons.
  4. Press the reset button for five seconds until the lights change.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None - usually a setting adjustment
  • Control knob set

Related codes

5 pulses

Your boiler has been left in a manual testing mode, usually used by engineers during a service, and needs to be returned to its normal setting.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the vertical selector switch on the front control panel.
  2. Ensure the switch is turned away from the 'Max' or 'Service' test position.
  3. Turn the boiler power off and back on again to reset the indicator light.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control knob
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if switch is damaged

Related codes

9A 361

Your boiler's internal computer parts do not recognise each other and are failing to communicate correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit (PCB)
  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
9A 362

Your boiler’s internal computer chip is incompatible with its main circuit board, meaning the internal parts are not communicating correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM (Heat Code Plug)
  • PCB (Main Control Board)

Related codes

9U 233

Your boiler's internal computer has lost communication with a specific configuration chip, meaning the unit no longer knows its own settings and cannot operate.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Code Plug
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
200

Your boiler is working correctly and is simply informing you that it is currently heating your radiators.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a status code, not a fault.
  2. If you want the heating to stop, turn down your room thermostat.
  3. Ensure your heating programmer is set to your desired schedule.

Related codes

201

Your boiler is simply notifying you that it is currently busy heating up water for your taps or shower.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if any hot water taps are currently turned on
  2. Ensure there are no leaking or dripping hot water taps in the house
  3. If the code persists when no water is being used, try resetting the boiler

Related codes

201 O

Your boiler is simply indicating that it is currently busy heating up the tap water for your home.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a status code, not an error.
  2. Turn off any running hot water taps to see the code disappear.
  3. If the code stays on when all taps are off, check for a dripping tap or a leaking hot water pipe.

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 151
202

Your boiler is working normally and is simply waiting for the thermostat to tell it to start heating.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to 'ON'
  3. Check if your wireless thermostat needs new batteries

Related codes

202 O

Your boiler is taking a short rest to prevent it from switching on and off too frequently, which helps protect its internal parts.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Wait 15 to 20 minutes for the timer to expire
  2. Check that your room thermostat is turned up
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are open to allow heat to circulate

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Normal operation)
  • External Room Thermostat

Related codes

203

Your boiler is simply resting because it has reached the required temperature or there is no current demand for heating or hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your room thermostat is turned up high enough to trigger a heat demand
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to an 'on' period
  3. Wait for the system to cool down naturally if it has recently been running

Related codes

203 0

Your boiler is working correctly and is simply waiting for you to turn up your thermostat or turn on a hot tap.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to 'ON'
  3. Check if there are any turned-off hot water taps or if the pre-heat function is satisfied

Related codes

204

Your boiler is temporarily pausing because it has already reached the required heat and is waiting for the water temperature to drop before firing up again.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your radiator valves are open to allow heat to leave the boiler
  3. Wait up to 15 minutes for the system to cool down and restart automatically

Related codes

204 O

Your boiler has stopped heating because the water inside it has become hotter than it is supposed to be.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open to allow water to flow
  2. Turn the boiler off at the power switch and wait 10 minutes for it to cool down
  3. Turn the power back on and press the 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)

Related codes

208

Your boiler is currently running at full power for a manual testing procedure and won't respond to your normal thermostat settings.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the small button with a 'bin' or 'flame' icon on the control panel.
  2. Press and hold this button for more than two seconds.
  3. The light should stop flashing and the boiler will return to normal operation.
208 0

Your boiler is currently stuck in a professional testing mode used by engineers to check emissions, which prevents it from operating normally for heating and hot water.

Medium DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check if the service/chimney sweep button is stuck and gently press it once to toggle the mode off
  2. Turn the boiler power off at the fused spur for 30 seconds and then turn it back on
  3. Press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds to clear the status

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually a settings override)
  • Control board (only if button is physically broken)

Related codes

212

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside it is getting too hot too quickly, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)

Related codes

224 V

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected an overheat situation, likely caused by the system water pressure being too low.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the needle is below 1 bar, use the internal or external filling loop to top up the water to 1.5 bar
  3. Once the pressure is corrected, press and hold the 'Reset' button for 5 seconds to restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Water Top-up)
  • Temperature Limit Stat
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 151
226

Your boiler has recorded that a technician's diagnostic tool was plugged into its internal memory, usually during a previous service or repair.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds
  2. Observe if the fault light clears and the boiler restarts
  3. Ensure no external diagnostic equipment is currently plugged into the control board
227 V

Your boiler is attempting to start but cannot detect a flame, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-450

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. If you have a pre-payment meter, ensure you have credit available
  3. Try resetting the boiler by holding the 'reset' button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Ionisation Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

228 V

Your boiler thinks it can see a flame even though the burner isn't actually lit, which is preventing it from starting up safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

235

Your boiler's internal computer chips are unable to communicate with each other because their software versions do not match.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • PCB (Main Circuit Board)
260

Your boiler has started up but is not detecting the expected heat increase, which often means the water isn't moving correctly or a sensor is failing.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

265

Your boiler is temporarily reducing its power and taking a short break because it has reached its target temperature too quickly.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open in the rooms you are heating
  2. Check that the room thermostat is set higher than the current room temperature
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if it clears the code and fires back up automatically after a few minutes

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • System Filter (cleaning)
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

268

Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic check of its internal parts, which usually happens during a startup or reset sequence.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Wait for 5-10 minutes for the test sequence to complete automatically
  2. Do not turn the power off while this code is displayed
  3. If the code persists for more than 15 minutes, try resetting the boiler once

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Control Board (PCB) if code persists indefinitely
270

Your boiler is working correctly and is simply increasing its power to reach the required temperature, which is normal operation and not a fault.

Low DIY-safe
283

Your boiler is currently going through its normal startup sequence and is getting ready to light the flame.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait a few minutes to see if the boiler lights normally
  2. Check if your thermostat is calling for heat
  3. Ensure your gas supply is turned on

Related codes

284

Your boiler has stopped working because it has detected an electrical issue or a mismatch with the gas control valve's internal settings.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 151
305

Your boiler is staying in hot water mode even when you aren't using a tap, which is preventing your central heating from turning on.

Medium Engineer only £120-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Turbine
  • Diverter Valve
  • Control Board

Related codes

305 0

Your boiler is temporarily pausing the hot water production to prevent itself from overheating or cycling too frequently.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Wait 5 to 10 minutes for the anti-cycle timer to finish
  2. Ensure your hot water taps are fully closed
  3. Check if the pre-heat function is active and allow it to complete its cycle

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Normal operation)
  • Diverter valve (if sticking)
  • Temperature sensor (NTC)

Related codes

306 V

Your boiler is still detecting a flame even after it has been told to shut off the gas, which is a safety concern that prevents the unit from operating.

Emergency Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Ionisation electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

328

Your boiler has detected an unstable electrical supply or an internal fault with its electronic control board.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Mains transformer

Related codes

356

Your boiler is not receiving a stable or strong enough supply of electricity to operate safely and has shut down as a result.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Low Voltage Transformer
360

Your boiler's internal computer brain is reporting a compatibility error, meaning it doesn't recognize the plug-in electronic chip that controls its heating functions.

High Engineer only £180-320

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

360 V

Your boiler's internal computer chip is giving the wrong signal to the main control board, which has caused the system to stop working.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Coding Plug
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
815 W/B

Your boiler's internal temperature sensors are reporting conflicting information or a broken connection, which is preventing the system from heating correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low loss header temperature sensor
  • Differential temperature sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
1010 O

Your boiler has lost its digital connection to its internal controls or external thermostat, meaning it cannot receive the instructions it needs to operate.

High Engineer only £90-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • EMS Bus Wiring
  • Low Voltage Fuse
  • Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

1017 W

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to heat your home safely and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling link (metal braided hose or internal key) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Close the valves once the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Sensor
  • Filling Link Assembly
  • Auto Air Vent

Related codes

Showing 41–50 of 151
1021 B

Your boiler's hot water sensor is not reporting correctly, which means the system cannot safely heat your water to the right temperature.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

1022 B

Your boiler is struggling to monitor the temperature of your hot water because a internal sensor has likely failed or become disconnected.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

1037 W

Your boiler has lost connection to its outdoor thermometer, meaning it cannot automatically adjust your heating based on the weather outside.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring
1065 B

Your boiler's internal computer has lost communication with the sensor that monitors water pressure, meaning it cannot safely tell if there is enough water in the system to operate.

High Engineer only £130-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

1068 W

Your boiler has lost connection with its outdoor thermometer, meaning it might struggle to adjust the heat level correctly based on the weather.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • External wiring/cabling

Related codes

1073 W

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal thermometer has detected an electrical fault and can no longer monitor the water temperature accurately.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

1074 W

Your boiler has lost communication with the internal thermometer that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting lead/wiring harness

Related codes

1075 W

Your boiler has stopped working because an internal temperature sensor has malfunctioned and is sending an incorrect signal to the main control board.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

1076 W

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors internal heat levels, meaning it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Electronic Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

2920 V

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot confirm that a flame is safely burning inside the unit.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Electrode Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 51–60 of 151
2924 V

Your boiler has stopped working because its main control board cannot communicate with the gas valve, preventing it from heating your water.

High Engineer only £280-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

2925 V

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal control board is not receiving the correct signal from the valve that controls the gas flow.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

2927 B

Your boiler has unexpectedly lost its flame while it was running, meaning it can no longer provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Burner control unit (PCB)
  • Flue seals

Related codes

2946 V

Your boiler's computer memory chip is faulty or incorrectly installed, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Coding Plug
  • Control Board (PCB)
2948 B

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit during operation, meaning your heating and hot water might cut out or fail to start.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

2950 B

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit during start-up and requires a professional service and calibration to run safely.

High Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

2963 B

Your boiler has detected that a internal sensor is sending an unusual signal, likely due to a loose wire or a faulty electronic part, which has caused the system to stop working.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Heat exchanger NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

2964 B

Your boiler has sensed that water is not moving through the system fast enough, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the internal gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Secondary Heat Exchanger
  • Flow Sensor

Related codes

2965 B

Your boiler has detected that the water inside it is getting too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure there are no blockages in the pipework
  3. Reset the boiler using the reset button on the front panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

2966 B

Your boiler is heating up too quickly because the water inside isn't moving fast enough to carry the heat away.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system water pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Showing 61–70 of 151
2967 B

Your boiler has detected that the water is heating up too quickly or unevenly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow/Return Thermistor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Powerflush required)

Related codes

2970 B

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your heating system is falling much too quickly, which usually means there is a significant leak or a fault with how the system handles pressure.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check all radiators, valves, and visible pipework for signs of water leaks.
  2. Locate the filling loop (usually two blue levers or a silver braided hose) and re-pressurise the system to 1.5 bar.
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air and then top up the pressure again if it drops.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Auto Air Vent

Related codes

2971 B

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your heating system is too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually two blue levers or a white plastic key under the boiler)
  2. Open the valves slowly to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge
  3. Close the valves once the needle reaches 1.5 bar and check if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Pressure sensor cable harness

Related codes

A1

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water circulating through the system, which can happen if there is a leak or if the internal pump has become stuck.

High DIY-safe £180-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; if it is below 1 bar, top up the system using the internal filling key
  2. Inspect visible radiator valves and pipework for any signs of water leaks
  3. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds once pressure is restored

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Automatic air vent
  • Pump capacitor

Related codes

A1 281

Your boiler's internal pump is unable to move water around the system, likely because it is jammed or there is too much air trapped inside it.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Bleeed all radiators in your home to remove any trapped air.
  3. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

A3 317

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the sensor that measures the temperature of exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

A7

Your boiler has lost its ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water going to your taps, meaning you may only have cold water or inconsistent temperatures.

High Engineer only £90-£160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting lead wiring harness

Related codes

A8

Your boiler has lost its connection to the external heating controls or room thermostat, meaning it cannot receive the signal to turn on.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check if your wireless thermostat has run out of batteries and replace them if necessary.
  2. Ensure the thermostat or programmer is switched on and within range of the boiler.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • RF Receiver
  • Wireless Thermostat
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

A8 362

Your boiler is struggling because it isn't receiving a steady or correct amount of electricity to power its internal computer.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

B1

Your boiler has lost its internal identity chip, meaning it no longer knows its specific model settings and cannot operate.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM Code Plug
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 151
B7 257

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £280-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C1 264

Your boiler has detected that the fan or the air circulation system has stopped working while it was running, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

C4 237

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious electronic fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)

Related codes

C4 273

Your boiler's fan or air pressure sensor has detected air movement when it should be off, often caused by strong winds or a technical glitch.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the boiler for five seconds
  2. Check the external flue pipe for any visible blockages like leaves or debris
  3. If the fault persists, please contact a Gas Safe registered engineer

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C6

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan responsible for clearing exhaust fumes is not spinning fast enough, so it has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C6 215

Your boiler has switched itself off because the internal fan is spinning at the wrong speed, meaning it can't safely clear away waste gases.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

C6 216

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that helps remove waste gases is not spinning fast enough to operate safely.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch
C7 214

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan, which safely clears exhaust gases, isn't spinning, so it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air Pressure Switch

Related codes

C7 216

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that clears exhaust gases is not spinning fast enough to operate safely.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extractor Fan
  • Fan Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

C7 217

Your boiler has shut down because the internal fan that moves air through the system has unexpectedly stopped spinning while it was running.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extraction fan
  • Flue pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 151
CC 800

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with the optional weather sensor located outside your home.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Weather compensation outdoor sensor
  • Wiring harness
CE 207

Your boiler has stopped working because the water level inside the system has dropped too low to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling link (usually a grey plastic lever or a removable braided hose underneath the boiler).
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valve(s) tightly once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling link
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

CE 266

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal pump is not moving water through the system as it should.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Main PCB
  • Pump cable

Related codes

D1 240

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors water returning to the unit, meaning it cannot safely regulate the temperature.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

D1 241

Your boiler has stopped working because it has lost its connection to the internal sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

D3 232

An external safety device or thermostat has stopped the boiler from running to prevent potential damage, such as a leak or overheating.

High DIY-safe £70-160

What to check first

  1. Check if your thermostat or programmer is turned on and calling for heat.
  2. If you have a condensate pump, check if it is full or blocked.
  3. If you have a underfloor heating limit switch, check if the floor is too hot.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External thermostat
  • Condensate pump
  • Underfloor heating overheat switch
  • Wiring link jumper

Related codes

D4 213

Your boiler has detected that the water inside is heating up too quickly, which usually means the water isn't circulating properly and triggered a safety shut-off.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler's isolation valves are fully open.
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)

Related codes

D4 271

Your boiler has detected that the water is heating up too quickly or isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Reset the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)

Related codes

D4 286

Your boiler has shut down because it thinks the water returning to the unit is dangerously hot, which usually means water is not flowing through the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your primary heating circuit valves are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  4. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing required)

Related codes

D4 341

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside it is getting too hot too quickly, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow
  3. Check if any recently moved furniture is blocking the system flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled up)

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 151
E2

Your boiler's internal thermometer that monitors the water temperature for your heating is broken or has a loose connection, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating Flow NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

E2 222

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors water temperature, meaning it cannot safely heat your water.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

E2 223

Your boiler has lost connection with the sensor that measures water temperature, causing it to stop heating for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E2 233

Your boiler has stopped working because it can no longer measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, usually due to a loose wire or a faulty internal sensor.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating flow temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board (PCB)

Related codes

E2 350

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E2 351

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E5 218

Your boiler has sensed that the water inside it has become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets.
  4. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Heat exchanger (flushing/cleaning)
  • Thermistor (NTC sensor)

Related codes

E9

Your boiler has overheated because the water inside is getting too hot or is not flowing correctly, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your system pressure gauge is below 1 bar and top it up if necessary
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open and there are no blockages
  3. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
E9 210

Your boiler has shut down because it detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot or the internal safety sensor has failed.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas Overheat Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Thermal Fuse

Related codes

E9 219

Your boiler has sensed that it is becoming dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage or overheating.

High Engineer only £120-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Safety Temperature Limiter
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Cleaning or Replacement)

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 151
E9 220

Your boiler has switched itself off to prevent damage because it has detected that it is getting dangerously hot or a safety sensor has failed.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Safety Temperature Sensor
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E9 224

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent internal damage.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Central Heating Pump

Related codes

E9 276

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature and has shut itself down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £150-£450

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your system water pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled)

Related codes

E9 277

Your boiler has sensed that the water inside is getting too hot and has shut itself down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Once the boiler has cooled down, press the 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Safety Temperature Sensor
  • Circulating Pump

Related codes

E9 285

Your boiler has shut down because internal components have become dangerously hot, likely due to a lack of water circulation or a component failure.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open to allow water to flow through the system.
  2. Ensure the central heating system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Reset the boiler using the reset button to see if the fault clears after the system has cooled down.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Return Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

E9 318

Your boiler has shut down because a safety sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot or the sensor itself has lost its electrical connection.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger cleaning
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

EA

Your boiler is failing to light the flame needed to heat your water and radiators, which often happens when the gas supply is interrupted or a component is worn out.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit (if on a prepay meter).
  2. Check that your main gas lever/valve is turned to the 'on' position.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Lead

Related codes

EA 227

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the gas or keep the flame burning to provide heat.

High DIY-safe £90-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas credit has run out or if other gas appliances are working.
  2. Inspect the white condensate pipe outside for signs of freezing and thaw with warm water if iced up.
  3. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds to restart the ignition sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

EA 229

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, which means it has safely shut down because it can no longer detect the fire needed to heat your water.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas prepayment meter has credit.
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working.
  3. During freezing weather, check if the white plastic condensate pipe leading outside is frozen and thaw it with warm water.
  4. Press the Reset button on the front of the boiler for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe (Flame Sensor)
  • Spark Electrode
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

EA 234

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas valve, meaning it cannot light the flame to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 151
EA 261

Your boiler's internal computer brain is having trouble communicating with the heating system and needs a restart to try and clear the error.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Wait for the blue light to stop flashing and see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

EA 269

Your boiler is trying to light the gas but can't sustain a flame, so it has locked itself for safety after too many attempts.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure your gas supply is active.
  2. If it is freezing outside, check if your white plastic condensate pipe is frozen and thaw it with warm water.
  3. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

EC 256

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a software or communication error and cannot safely operate the burner.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

EF 349

Your boiler has slowed down because it is struggling to circulate water quickly enough through the system, often caused by a blockage or a pump issue.

Medium DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating pressure is topped up to 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow and Return Thermistors
  • Central Heating Filter

Related codes

EH 258

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £250-£480

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)

Related codes

F0

Your boiler has encountered an internal electronic communication failure, meaning the control board cannot talk to the parts that start the burner.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Leads
  • Programmer Interface Module

Related codes

F0 237

Your boiler's computer system has encountered a communication error, meaning it has essentially 'frozen' and cannot talk to its internal components.

High DIY-safe £250-450

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  2. Wait 30 seconds for the boiler to restart
  3. Switch the main electrical power to the boiler off and back on again

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wire harness

Related codes

F0 238

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem between the main control board and the gas valve, preventing it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F0 239

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the heating system, causing the unit to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)

Related codes

F0 242

Your boiler’s internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the main control system, preventing the boiler from heating.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 121–130 of 151
F0 258

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F0 262

Your boiler’s internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with its main control board.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

F0 272

Your boiler’s internal computer has developed a serious fault or has disconnected, meaning the system cannot safely tell the boiler when to start or stop.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)

Related codes

F0 278

Your boiler's control system has detected a communication issue with its internal sensors, preventing it from heating your home or water.

High Engineer only £100-240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Control Board

Related codes

F0 279

Your boiler's computer system has detected an internal electronic failure, meaning it cannot safely control the burner to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • KIM (Key Identification Module)

Related codes

F0 280

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault or is not communicating correctly, meaning the system cannot safely operate.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control Box (PCB)
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)

Related codes

F0 287

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a serious communication error or a hardware fault, preventing the system from starting safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • KIM (Key Identification Module)

Related codes

F0 290

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical communication error and cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM (Heat Code Manager)
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

F1 259

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the heating system, causing the boiler to shut down.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Control Box)

Related codes

F1 263

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a communication error or electrical fault and can no longer control the heating process.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 131–140 of 151
F7

Your boiler thinks it still sees a flame after it has been told to turn off, which is causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-400

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Electrode
  • Control Board (PCB)
  • Mains Lead

Related codes

F7 228

Your boiler thinks there is a flame present when there shouldn't be, which is causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ionisation lead

Related codes

F7 328

Your boiler has experienced a temporary interruption in its electrical supply and has stopped working as a safety precaution.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for approximately five seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to restart and check if the blue light remains solid

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if fault recurs

Related codes

FA

Your boiler thinks it still sees a flame even though the gas should be turned off, which is a safety conflict that requires a professional inspection.

Emergency Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ionisation electrode

Related codes

FA 306

Your boiler thinks it still sees a flame even though it has commanded the gas to turn off.

Emergency Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FA 364

Your boiler has detected a potential internal gas leak or a serious fault with the gas control valve, causing it to shut down for safety.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FB 365

Your boiler has detected a potential internal gas leak within its own components and has shut down as a safety precaution.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FD

Your boiler is simply in a temporary 'standby' mode because the reset button was held down too long or pressed by mistake.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press the reset button once briefly (for about one second).
  3. Wait for the light to stop flashing and the boiler to restart its normal sequence.

Related codes

FD 231

Your boiler has lost its connection to the main electricity supply or has experienced a sudden power interruption.

High DIY-safe £0-280

What to check first

  1. Check if there has been a local power cut in your street
  2. Inspect your home's consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped
  3. Press and hold the reset button on the boiler for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Fuse

Related codes

H07

Your boiler's water pressure has dropped too low, which is preventing it from providing full heating and hot water.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling link (internal or external flexible hose) underneath the boiler
  2. Open the valves slowly to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge
  3. Close valves once the needle reaches 1.5 bar and ensure the boiler is reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling link
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Showing 141–150 of 151
HrE

Your boiler is experiencing a critical electronic failure that causes it to shut down and try to restart repeatedly.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

Light off

Your boiler is currently idle because it hasn't been told to turn on by your thermostat or timer.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to 'On' or 'Auto'.
  3. Check if the batteries in your wireless thermostat need replacing.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Room thermostat
  • External programmer
  • Thermostat batteries
Light on

Your boiler is operating normally and is currently heating your radiators as requested by your thermostat.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your thermostat is set to the temperature you want
  2. Wait for the house to reach the desired temperature
  3. No further action is required as this is a status indicator, not a fault

Related codes

NO CODE 212

Your boiler is overheating because water isn't moving through the system quickly enough to be cooled down.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Look for any visible leaks around the boiler or radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

No light

Your boiler has lost power completely and will not turn on, meaning you have no heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other appliances are working to rule out a general power cut
  2. Check your home's main fuse box (consumer unit) to see if a circuit has tripped
  3. Ensure the boiler's power switch or fused spur next to the unit is turned on

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal Fuse
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Transformer
rE

Your boiler is currently resetting itself, which usually happens after a fault has been detected or while it's trying to restart.

Medium DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if any other fault codes were displayed before the 'rE' appeared
  2. Wait for 30 seconds to see if the boiler completes its start-up sequence
  3. Ensure your gas supply is active by checking other gas appliances like a hob

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

T1

Your boiler is currently performing a routine check to see if the spark that starts the flame is working correctly.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic self-test cycle
  2. If the code persists, try resetting the boiler once
  3. Ensure your gas supply is active at the meter

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

T2

Your boiler is having trouble starting up because it cannot confirm that the internal fan is spinning at the correct speed to safely clear waste gases.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

T3

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water because the internal pump is not behaving as expected during its startup test.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Internal Pump Cable
  • Main PCB

Related codes

T4

Your boiler is struggling to switch properly between your heating and hot water, meaning you might lose one or both services.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Three-way valve
  • Diverter valve motor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 151–151 of 151
T6

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected an internal failure in its safety testing system, meaning it cannot verify if the flame is burning safely.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes