The 6 most common faults
Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system is too low to run safely.
Locate the external filling loop, usually a small silver braided hose with one or two valves located underneath the boiler.Gradually open the valve(s) to let water into the system until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Close the valve(s) tightly to stop the flow of water.
Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your heating system is too high, which could cause a leak or damage if not addressed.
Locate a radiator in your home, preferably upstairs.Place a cloth and a container under the radiator bleed valve.Use a radiator key to slightly open the valve and let a small amount of water out until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops to between 1 and 1.5 bar.
Your boiler has lost its specific 'tuning' settings which control how much power it should use, preventing it from starting up correctly.
Full guide for Block 60Your boiler has switched itself off because the waste gases exiting the flue are dangerously hot, indicating your system is struggling to vent heat properly.
Full guide for Block 80Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors the exhaust gases has become disconnected.
Full guide for Block 81Your boiler has detected a faulty sensor that monitors exhaust fumes, so it has purposefully shut down for safety reasons until the part can be replaced by a qualified engineer.
Full guide for Block 82on the Atag E32S
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Atag shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue