Atag iC28 Fault codes & diagnostics

16 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural GasLPG 28 kW 2015-present
GC Number 47-310-21
Download the Atag iC28 manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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Note it down before pressing reset — resetting clears the code immediately. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 11 High 2 Medium 2 Low

Which version do you have?

The GC number on your boiler's data badge identifies the exact appliance and production years, as recorded in the UK Product Characteristics Database.

GC number Appliance (register name) Produced
47-310-21 iC28 2015–present

All 16 documented codes

Tap any card for details

10

Your boiler has lost communication with its outdoor temperature sensor, which means the system may not be able to adjust its heating efficiency based on the weather outside.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • External sensor wiring

Related codes

20

Your boiler has lost its connection with the temperature sensor that monitors the water leaving the unit, meaning it cannot safely regulate heat.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Internal wiring harness

Related codes

40

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot get a correct temperature reading from the pipe that brings water back into the unit.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

50

Your boiler's hot water sensor has stopped working correctly, which means the system cannot accurately measure or provide hot water.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (T3)
  • Connecting cable harness

Related codes

61

Your boiler has lost its internal connection between its main control board and the display or smart thermostat, preventing it from receiving commands.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control PCB
  • Display PCB
  • Internal wiring harness

Related codes

78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is either too low or too high, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0, use the filling loop (usually two blue levers or a pull-down lever) to top it up slowly.
  3. If the pressure is above 3.0, you may need to bleed a radiator to release the excess pressure.
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is within the correct range.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

105

Your boiler is currently running a seven-minute self-cleaning cycle to remove air bubbles from the pipes after the system pressure was too low.

Low DIY-safe £0-60

What to check first

  1. Wait 7 minutes for the boiler to complete its automatic air-removal cycle
  2. Check the pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. If the code returns, top up the water pressure using the filling loop

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts required
  • Filling loop valve

Related codes

110

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, which is usually due to poor water circulation or a blockage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Heat Exchanger

Related codes

111

Your boiler has shut down because the internal water temperature has become too high, often caused by a lack of water flow or a circulation error.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water flow
  3. Check for any frozen external condensate pipes if it is winter
  4. Try resetting the boiler via the 'R' or reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger (cleaning or replacement)

Related codes

117

Your boiler has shut down because there is too much water pressure in the system, which puts unnecessary stress on the internal components.

Emergency DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator bleed valve and use a radiator key to carefully release a small amount of water into a container.
  2. Monitor the pressure gauge on the boiler control panel until it drops back into the green zone (typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar).
  3. Ensure the filling loop valves are fully closed to prevent more water from entering the system.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low, causing it to slow down to protect the system.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Open the one or two taps/levers on the filling loop until the pressure gauge reads between 1.2 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Fully close both taps and ensure the code has cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

119

Your boiler has lost its connection with a critical safety component or its internal wiring has developed a fault, causing the system to stop working to protect itself.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Link wire
  • External controls cable
  • Boiler PCB

Related codes

129

Your boiler's internal fan has stopped working, which means it cannot safely blow waste gases out of the flue and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

133

Your boiler has tried to light itself five times and failed, resulting in a lockout to prevent unburned gas from building up.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your credit or prepaid gas meter has enough credit.
  2. Verify that other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are currently working.
  3. Ensure your condensate pipe (the plastic pipe leading outside) isn't frozen if it is currently winter.
  4. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel once.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

151

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that removes waste gases is not spinning at the correct speed or the main control board has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £280-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extraction Fan
  • Main Control PCB
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

154

Your boiler has sensed that water isn't moving through the system properly and has shut down to prevent the unit from overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and external isolation valves are fully open.
  3. Listen for air trapped in the pump or radiators and bleed them if necessary.
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the error clears once water flow is restored.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Return Water Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

2 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.

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