Baxi 800 Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 25-36 kW 2019-present

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 110 High 10 Medium 8 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 red flash

Your boiler has detected that the water is either getting too hot or isn't moving through the system correctly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  3. Ensure the pump is not making grinding noises and bleed any air from the radiators
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Circulation Pump
  • Plate Heat Exchanger

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Allow the boiler to cool down for at least 20 minutes
  2. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Press the 'R' or Reset button to try and restart the system

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Central Heating Pump
  • Thermistor

Related codes

3 green flashes

Your boiler has temporarily lost its flame and is currently trying to restart itself automatically.

Medium DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to automatically attempt a restart
  2. Check that the gas supply is active (e.g. check other gas appliances)
  3. If the fault persists and changes to a solid error, try pressing the Reset button once

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler is failing to light its internal flame after several attempts, which means it will not be able to provide heating or hot water until it is reset or repaired.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is switched on and other gas appliances like your hob are working.
  2. Ensure your pre-paid gas meter has credit, if applicable.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds to clear the fault.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrodes
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler is temporarily struggling to talk to its internal computer and should restart itself automatically without you needing to do anything.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic self-reset
  2. If the flashing continues, turn the power to the boiler off and back on at the fused spur switch
  3. Ensure any external room thermostats or smart controls have fresh batteries

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually self-corrects)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 red flashes

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of your home, is not spinning correctly or has lost power.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • PCB (Main circuit board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

5 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief computer glitch while loading its settings, but it is programmed to fix itself and restart automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to self-reset automatically
  2. If the flashing persists for more than 10 minutes, turn the selector switch to 'Reset'
  3. If the fault continues to return, monitor the boiler and contact a technician

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

5 red flashes

Your boiler’s internal memory chip has developed a communication fault, meaning it cannot remember its own settings to run safely.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Parameter Storage Unit (PSU)
  • Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

6 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a temporary communication hiccup and is currently trying to fix itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to finish its self-reset cycle
  2. If the flashing continues for more than 10 minutes, turn the power off and back on at the fused spur switch
  3. Ensure your mains water pressure hasn't dropped

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has encountered an internal technical error that is preventing it from running properly and needs professional attention.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
  • Gas valve

Related codes

FLASH FLASH ON

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of your home, is not spinning or starting correctly, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

FLASH OFF FLASH

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power from the mains supply to operate safely.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Mains transformer

Related codes

FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally, likely due to a circulation issue or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water flow.
  2. Verify that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  3. Baxi 800 models often have a 'Reset' selector; turn the knob to the reset position for five seconds and release.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a communication error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FLASH ON ON

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £350-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system or there is not enough water inside for it to heat up safely.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar using the filling loop if it is too low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is corrected

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Primary Heat Exchanger
  • Flow/Return Thermistors

Related codes

ON FLASH ON

Your boiler's temperature sensors have developed a fault, meaning the system can no longer safely monitor how hot the water is getting.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor (Flow or Return)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected that the electrical wiring coming into the unit from your house has been connected the wrong way around.

Emergency Engineer only £80-130

Parts commonly replaced

  • External wiring connections
  • Fused spur
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if damaged by reverse polarity

Related codes

ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

110

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature and has automatically shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler off and allow it to cool down for 20 minutes.
  2. Check that all radiator valves are fully open.
  3. Bleed your radiators using a radiator key to release trapped air.
  4. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped.
  5. Reset the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

117

Your boiler has too much water in the system, which puts extra stress on the internal components and may cause it to stop working for safety.

Medium DIY-safe £60-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the internal or external filling loop valves are fully closed.
  2. Locate a radiator bleed valve and use a key to release water into a container to lower the pressure.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure has been reduced.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop Valve
  • Pressure Relief Valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped below the minimum level required to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two small taps on the filling loop until you hear water moving.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps firmly once it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible braided hose) underneath your boiler or on the nearby pipework.
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps/levers on the filling loop to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar, then restart your boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

125

Your boiler has sensed that water is not moving through the system correctly, which is usually caused by trapped air or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove any trapped air
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler's isolation valves are fully open

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Automatic air vent

Related codes

127

Your boiler has failed to heat the water to a high enough temperature to kill off any potentially harmful bacteria in the system.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water cylinder thermostat is set to at least 60°C
  2. Ensure your heating and hot water timers allow enough time for the tank to reach full temperature
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the cycle completes successfully on the next attempt

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder thermostat
  • NTC thermistor (sensor)
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for five seconds
  3. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly to rule out a gas supply issue

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

133

Your boiler has failed to light after several attempts, meaning it cannot produce heat or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for five seconds
  3. Ensure the condensate pipe (the white plastic pipe outside) isn't frozen if it is cold weather

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

153

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short period and has temporarily locked itself for safety.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector knob on the front of the boiler.
  2. Turn the knob to the 'R' (Reset) position and hold it for at least 5 seconds.
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence and see if the code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software Lock)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

160

Your boiler's fan is not spinning at the correct speed, which means it cannot safely clear away waste gases to allow the boiler to start.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler has detected an issue with how air is moving through the system, meaning it cannot safely clear away waste gases and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan

Related codes

164

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors water pressure or flow, preventing it from heating your home safely.

High DIY-safe £120-210

What to check first

  1. Check if your boiler pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. If pressure is too low, use the filling loop to top it up
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Flow switch
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

166

Your boiler has detected a problem with how air and waste gases are moving through the system, preventing it from firing up for your safety.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

270

Your boiler has sensed a rapid rise in temperature because there is not enough water moving through the system to absorb the heat.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and top up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar if it is too low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open and not turned off
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Overheat thermostat

Related codes

432

Your boiler has lost its electrical safety grounding connection, which prevents it from running for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £90-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness
  • Earth Bonding Cable

Related codes

433

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot inside, likely due to water not circulating properly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

E.00 – .04

Your boiler has detected a fault with the sensor that monitors water returning from your radiators, meaning it cannot safely regulate the temperature and has stopped working.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness
E.00 – .05

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly detect the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connecting the sensor

Related codes

E.01 – .02

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water going out, which usually means the water isn't flowing correctly or a sensor is misreading.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow/Return NTC thermistor
  • Circulation pump
  • Internal pipework (de-scaling)
E.01 – .04

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit and has shut down as a safety precaution after multiple failed attempts.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. If you have a prepay meter, ensure you have sufficient credit
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler has detected that the fan is spinning at the wrong speed, likely due to a strong gust of wind outside or a fault with the air supply system.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the 'R' or 'Reset' button for five seconds
  2. Check the external flue pipe on your outside wall for any obstructions like leaves or debris
  3. If it is a very windy day, wait for the weather to calm down and try resetting the boiler again

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E.01 – .12

Your boiler has sensed that the water returning from the radiators is hotter than the water leaving the boiler, which suggests a circulation or sensor error that needs a manual reset.

High DIY-safe £80-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or turn the selector knob to 'R' for 5 seconds.
  2. Release the button and wait for the boiler to attempt to restart.
  3. Check that your radiator valves are open to ensure water can flow properly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Pump
E.01 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because water isn't moving through the system correctly, which could be due to a trapped air bubble or a faulty connection.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the 'R' (Reset) button for five seconds
  2. Check that your radiator valves are open
  3. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

E.01 – .20

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, likely due to water not moving through the system properly or a sensor fault.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas NTC sensor
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Circulation pump
E.02 – .00

Your boiler is simply letting you know that the reset button has been held down or activated.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 30 seconds for the boiler to complete its internal checks.
  2. The code should clear automatically and return to the normal temperature display.
  3. If the code persists, try pressing the reset button once more briefly.
E.02 – .07

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually two blue levers or a braided hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both taps until you hear water entering the system and watch the pressure gauge.
  3. Close both taps tightly once the pressure gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E.02 – .16

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical communication error or hardware failure and can no longer control the heating process.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Channel Service Unit
E.02 – .17

Your boiler's main control centre is unable to talk to the part that manages the gas supply, meaning the system cannot safely light itself.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .19

Your boiler's internal configuration settings have been altered or are mismatched, which is preventing it from running correctly.

High Engineer only £80-140

Parts commonly replaced

  • Jumper Link
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.02 – .20

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been adjusted incorrectly, meaning the control board doesn't recognize how the unit is supposed to operate.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Jumper Link

Related codes

Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's internal configuration settings have been altered or are mismatched, which means the control board isn't sure how to operate correctly.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Jumper/Selector
E.02 – .47

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your external thermostat or heating controls due to a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control wiring
  • External thermostat
  • Receiver unit

Related codes

E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your thermostat or smart home hub, meaning it cannot receive the command to turn on the heating.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check batteries in your wall-mounted thermostat and replace if necessary.
  2. Ensure your internet router and smart home hub are switched on and connected.
  3. Try to re-pair the thermostat with the boiler following the manufacturer's pairing instructions.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wireless Receiver
  • Smart Thermostat
  • RF Communication Module
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost communication with the internal gas control system, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.04 – .01

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit due to a faulty or loose electrical sensor.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .02

Your boiler has stopped working because it can no longer accurately measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .03

Your boiler has shut down because it is overheating, which usually means the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to the off position.
  2. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  3. Restart the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Flow and Return Thermistors

Related codes

E.04 – .04

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .05

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust fumes, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .06

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot internally, often due to a lack of water flow or a blocked flue.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Thermistor
  • Heat Exchanger
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage, often caused by water not moving through the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

E.04 – .10

Your boiler is trying to start up but cannot light the flame, which is why your heating and hot water have stopped working.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker hob, are working to confirm your gas supply is active.
  2. If you have a prepay meter, check that you have enough credit.
  3. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator

Related codes

E.04 – .12

Your boiler thinks a flame is present even when it should be off, or it is struggling to regulate the gas and air mixture correctly.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB
  • Electrode

Related codes

E.04 – .13

Your boiler has detected a serious problem with the fan that safely removes exhaust gases, meaning the system has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a serious issue with the gas flow or the internal combustion system and has locked itself out for safety.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Fan and venturi assembly
E0

Your boiler's internal thermometer has stopped working correctly, meaning the system cannot safely monitor the water temperature to heat your home.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness Connection

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down completely.
  2. Bleed all radiators using a radiator key to release trapped air.
  3. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Central Heating Pump
  • Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

E2

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which is usually caused by trapped air or a blockage in your pipes or radiators.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off your heating and let the radiators cool down completely.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed all radiators, starting with the one furthest from the boiler.
  3. Check your boiler pressure gauge and top it up to between 1 and 1.5 bar if it has dropped.
  4. Restart the boiler to see if the fault code has cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Central heating filter
  • Automatic air vent

Related codes

E3

Your boiler's computer has developed a fault and is unable to communicate with its internal parts, meaning the system cannot run safely.

High Engineer only £350-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E4

Your boiler has failed to ignite and heat up, which is often caused by trapped air in the system or a temporary interruption to your gas supply.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is active and credit is on the meter
  2. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds
  3. Turn off the heating and use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators
  4. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensor

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler has detected a communication problem with its gas control system and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E10

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor outside that helps it adjust to the weather, but it should still provide heating and hot water as normal.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring

Related codes

E12

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly through the system, preventing it from heating up safely.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  3. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  4. Restart the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Flow Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Cleaning)

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that a internal water valve is stuck in the 'on' position even though the pump has stopped, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential pressure switch
  • Hydraulic microswitch
  • Clogged bypass

Related codes

E15

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication error between the main control board and the part that manages the gas flow, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler's temperature sensor has developed a fault, meaning the system cannot accurately measure how hot the water is for your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (CH) NTC Thermistor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it disposes of waste gases or a blockage in its drainage system, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check the external condensate pipe for signs of freezing if the weather is very cold
  2. Thaw any frozen external pipes using warm (not boiling) water
  3. Check the flue terminal on the outside of your house for any obvious obstructions like debris or bird nests
  4. Press the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E50

Your boiler's hot water sensor has developed a fault, meaning it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water coming out of your taps.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E53

Your boiler is not getting enough air to burn gas safely, which often means the exhaust pipe outside is obstructed or there is an issue with the internal sensors.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Locate your boiler's flue pipe on the outside wall of your home.
  2. Check for and remove any external blockages such as debris, leaves, bird nests, or thick ice.
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset button once the flue is clear.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue terminal or seals
  • Gas valve
  • Electrode assembly

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is struggling to detect when you turn on a hot tap, meaning you might have inconsistent or no hot water.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
E55

Your boiler's electronic brain needs to recalibrate its combustion settings to ensure it is burning gas safely and efficiently.

Medium DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for at least 5 seconds
  2. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic recalibration sequence
  3. If the code persists, check that your gas supply is active (e.g., check other gas appliances)

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Electrode
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E78

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors internal water pressure, causing the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £140-230

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's main control board has lost contact with its internal components or the external thermostat, preventing it from functioning.

High DIY-safe £120-450

What to check first

  1. Check that your smart thermostat bridge or hub is plugged in and has power
  2. Replace the batteries in your room thermostat or programmer
  3. Turn the boiler off at the fused spur switch, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on to reset the connection

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom
  • External Thermostat/Programmer
E92

Your boiler has detected an issue with the air and gas mixture while trying to automatically tune itself for efficient burning.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Electrode
  • PCB

Related codes

E100

Your boiler's computer brain has lost its internal time setting, often due to a temporary glitch or a failing internal component.

High DIY-safe £280-450

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler off at the main power switch for 30 seconds and turn it back on.
  2. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds.
  3. If the code persists, try to manually set the time using the boiler's control panel menu.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Display Interface Module

Related codes

E109

Your boiler is overheating because the water isn't moving around the system properly, causing the safety sensors to shut the unit down.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the isolation valves under the boiler are fully open.
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Cleaning/Descaling)
  • Pump Lead

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has likely overheated, causing a safety sensor to automatically shut the system down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned off.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down for 30 minutes and then press the 'Reset' button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has detected that there is too much water pressure in the system, which causes the unit to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator bleed valve and a radiator key.
  2. With the heating off, slowly open the valve into a cloth or bowl to release water and lower the pressure.
  3. Monitor the boiler pressure gauge until it returns to the normal green zone (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open both blue tap handles until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both taps tightly once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually blue levers or a braided hose under the boiler)
  2. Slowly open the valves until you hear water flowing and the gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Close both valves fully and press the 'R' or 'Reset' button on the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E125

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly around the system, which is usually caused by an air lock or a pump failure.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  3. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  4. Try resetting the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

E128

Your boiler is struggling to keep its internal flame lit and has shut down as a safety precaution after several unsuccessful attempts.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Check if any other gas appliances in your home are working
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to maintain a steady flame during its automatic setup process, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing cable
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, or the sensor itself has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger (Cleaning/Descaling)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has switched itself off for safety because the exhaust gases have reached a temperature that is too high.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Flue Thermostat
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has failed to light because it either isn't receiving gas or the system cannot detect a flame.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and any prepay meter has credit
  2. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for 5 seconds
  3. In freezing temperatures, check if the white plastic condensate pipe outside is frozen and thaw with warm water

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E134

Your boiler has tried to ignite several times but cannot detect a flame, likely because gas isn't reaching the burner or the ignition system has failed.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter.
  2. Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' and holding it for at least five seconds.
  3. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctly to rule out a wider gas supply issue.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Spark Generator
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas supply due to an internal electronic communication failure, meaning it cannot ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly or the temperature sensors are giving conflicting readings.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust fumes out of the house, has stopped working correctly and needs expert attention.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E160 / E161

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that safely pushes waste gases out of your home, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-£380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • PCB (Main Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E163

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has stopped working correctly, meaning your taps and showers may run cold or at inconsistent temperatures.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC Thermistor Sensor
  • Wiring Harness/Connector

Related codes

E164

Your boiler is struggling to monitor its own internal water pressure, which prevents it from heating up your home safely.

High Engineer only £130-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a communication error and is unable to control the heating system correctly.

High DIY-safe £250-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Release the button and wait for the boiler to restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E168

Your boiler has experienced an internal communication error, meaning the electronic control board isn't sure what to do next.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E193

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly through the system before the burner ignites, often caused by trapped air or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

E270

Your boiler has detected that water is the not moving through the system properly, causing the unit to overheat or run without enough water.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check if the boiler pressure needle is in the green zone (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar) and top up using the filling loop if it is too low.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open.
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow and Return Thermistors
  • Heat Exchanger (Cleaning or Replacement)

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical power supply frequency coming into your home, which is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Inline Surge Protector

Related codes

E321

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has stopped working correctly, meaning your taps may not get warm.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame even though it hasn't finished its startup process, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • PCB (Main circuit board)
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power to operate safely and has shut down to protect its internal components.

High Engineer only £120-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External voltage regulator
  • Internal wiring loom

Related codes

E430

Your boiler is checking if there is enough water pressure to operate safely and may have detected a temporary drop.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the internal filling loop levers to top it up to 1.5 bar
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has lost its internal connection to the part that controls the gas supply, prevent it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler has detected that water is failing to circulate correctly through the system, causing it to overheat and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air which may be blocking flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • NTC thermistor (Temperature sensor)
  • Central heating filter (requires cleaning)

Related codes

H.01 – .08

Your boiler is overheating or water is not moving through the system quickly enough to stay at a safe temperature.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the digital display or gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate.
  3. Reset the boiler by pressing the 'R' button or following the reset prompt on the display.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Central heating filter

Related codes

H.01 – .14

Your boiler has sensed it is getting too hot too quickly, usually because water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the temporary fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Pump Lead
  • Flow Temperature Sensor

Related codes

H.01 – .18

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system properly or a sensor is giving an incorrect reading.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  2. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is too low
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Reset the boiler by pressing the 'R' or 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)
  • Water pressure switch

Related codes

H.01 – .21

Your boiler is heating up too quickly when you try to use hot water, often because the water isn't flowing through the system fast enough.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your main water stopcock and all isolation valves under the boiler are fully open.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the digital display.
  3. Restart the boiler by pressing the ‘R’ or Reset button to see if the temporary fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Plate Heat Exchanger
  • Internal Pump

Related codes

H.02 – .02

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been set up correctly or has forgotten its essential configuration settings.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Plug

Related codes

Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler's computer brain is momentarily confused by its internal setup settings and cannot start correctly.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for 1 to 3 seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to restart; if the code clears, the boiler should resume normal operation

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

H.02 – .04

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a temporary settings glitch that is preventing it from running correctly.

Medium DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the Reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the Reset button for approximately 5 seconds.
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence to see if the error clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Parameter Plug

Related codes

H.02 – .06

Your boiler is struggling to operate because the water pressure is too low, often caused by a leak or air in the radiators.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Check the digital gauge or pressure dial to confirm it is below 1.0 bar
  2. Locate the filling loop (braided silver hose) under the boiler
  3. Slowly open the valves to top up the pressure to 1.5 bar, then close them tightly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Automatic air vent
  • Pressure sensor
H.03 -.00

Your boiler is struggling to read information from its internal temperature sensors, which is preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £100-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flue Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.03 – .01

Your boiler’s internal computer is having trouble talking to its main control board, which has caused the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.03 – .02

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, meaning it has stopped providing heat and hot water for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property.
  2. Verify that your prepaid gas meter has credit, if applicable.
  3. Restart the boiler by pressing the 'Reset' button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler has no electricity reaching the unit and is currently turned off.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if your mains electricity is working in the rest of the house
  2. Ensure the boiler's fused spur switch next to the unit is switched ON
  3. Check your consumer unit/fuse box to see if the heating circuit has tripped
  4. If you have a pre-payment meter, check that you have credit available

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3A Fuse
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
ON OFF ON

Your boiler has failed to light several times and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active and other gas appliances are working
  2. Ensure your prepaid gas meter has credit
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or reset button for 5 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Spark Leads

Related codes

ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem between its main control components.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low voltage wiring harness
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes