Baxi Duo-tec Combi GA Fault codes & diagnostics

23 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-40 kW 2011-2015 Discontinued
GC Numbers 47-075-5447-075-5547-075-5647-075-57

Replaced by: Duo-tec 2 Combi

Download the Baxi Duo-tec Combi GA manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 20 High 1 Medium 1 Unrated

Which version do you have?

The GC number on your boiler's data badge identifies the exact appliance and production years, as recorded in the UK Product Characteristics Database.

GC number Appliance (register name) Produced
47-075-56 Duo-tec 2 Combi 33 GA 2011–2015
47-075-57 Duo-tec 2 Combi 40 GA 2011–2015

Appliance names and production years are taken from the UK Product Characteristics Database (the SAP/SEDBUK register). Where a GC number is also printed in this model's own manufacturer manual, both sources were checked to agree.

All 23 documented codes

Tap any card for details

09

Your boiler has lost its connection to the component that controls the fuel supply, meaning it cannot ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

15

Your boiler has detected a communication problem with the part that controls the gas supply, meaning it cannot light safely for heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

20

Your boiler has lost signal from the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water used to heat your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

28

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

40

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

109

Your boiler's internal pump is struggling to move water around the system before the burner starts, which often suggests an air lock or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking the flow
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

110

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that the water inside has become far too hot.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero.
  2. Ensure there is enough pressure in the system (typically between 1 and 1.5 bar).
  3. Turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds and then back to 'onn'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Temperature Sensors (NTC)

Related codes

117

There is too much water pressure in your boiler system, which has caused the unit to shut down for safety.

Emergency DIY-safe £80-160

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop valves under the boiler are tightly closed.
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a radiator key to lower the pressure.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to the green zone (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar).

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve (PRV)

Related codes

118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small taps) underneath the boiler.
  2. Open both taps slowly until you hear water entering the system and watch the pressure gauge.
  3. Close both taps tightly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 23
125

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system properly, which is causing it to overheat and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Internal bypass valve
  • Water pressure sensor

Related codes

128

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, meaning it has safely shut down because it can no longer heat your water.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances (like a hob) are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Check that your pre-pay gas meter has sufficient credit
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

130

Your boiler has shut down because it detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, which is a safety feature to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Burner Insulation

Related codes

133

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has failed, which means the flame is either not starting or not staying on.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.
  2. Verify that your gas meter has credit or that the isolation valve is open.
  3. Perform a reset by turning the selector knob to the 'R' position for five seconds.
  4. Ensure the external condensate pipe has not frozen during cold weather.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Flame Sensing Lead

Related codes

134

Your boiler is trying to light but cannot find a gas supply or ignite a flame.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit (if on a prepayment meter)
  2. Check that your main gas stopcock is fully open
  3. Switch the boiler off and on again to attempt a reset
  4. Check if other gas appliances in your home (like a hob) are working

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Ignition electrode
  • PCB (Control board)

Related codes

135

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas supply or cannot detect gas flow, meaning it cannot ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker or hob, are working correctly.
  2. Ensure your gas emergency control valve (usually located by your meter) is in the open position.
  3. Check if your prepayment gas meter has sufficient credit.
  4. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds to see if the error clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Electrode

Related codes

160

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that safely pushes waste gases out of your home, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-£380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring loom
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, which is causing it to overheat too quickly and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Water Pressure Sensor

Related codes

321

Your boiler is struggling to provide hot water because the temperature sensor responsible for tracking it has developed a fault.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
384

Your boiler thinks there is a flame present when there shouldn't be, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Showing 21–23 of 23
E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small lever valves under the boiler).
  2. Slowly open both lever valves to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both valves firmly once it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is fully open
  2. If you have a prepaid gas meter, check that you have sufficient credit
  3. Attempt to reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E133

Your boiler is failing to ignite because it is not receiving enough gas or cannot detect a flame.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

1 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.