Baxi Profile Prima Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Regular Natural Gas 15-29 kW 1997-2005 Discontinued

Replaced by: Potterton Promax

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 115 High 6 Medium 7 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 green flash

Your boiler has reached its set temperature and is temporarily turning off because your home is warm enough.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your room thermostat is set high enough
  2. Wait for the temperature to drop and the boiler to restart automatically
  3. Adjust the temperature dial on the front of the boiler if more heat is desired
1 red flash

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot or the water isn't moving through the system correctly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is at the correct level (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Check for any visible leaks around the boiler and pipework

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down for safety purposes.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open and there are no obstructions to water flow.
  2. Wait for the boiler to cool down completely.
  3. Locate the manual reset button (usually tucked under the bottom of the boiler) and press it firmly to restart the unit.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Pressure relief valve
3 green flashes

Your boiler has momentarily lost its flame and is trying to restart itself, which often indicates a minor interruption in the gas supply or a slightly dirty component.

Medium DIY-safe £80-160

What to check first

  1. Monitor the boiler for several minutes to see if the flame stabilizes on its own
  2. Check that other gas appliances in the home are working correctly to rule out a supply issue
  3. Perform a manual reset of the boiler if the fault does not clear automatically
  4. Contact a Gas Safe engineer if the fault progresses to 3 red flashes

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame rectification lead

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler has tried to light itself several times but cannot establish a flame, meaning your heating and hot water will not work.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Check that your gas meter has credit if you use a pre-payment meter
  3. Switch the boiler off and on again at the fused spur switch to attempt a reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler has temporarily lost communication between its internal electronic parts but should automatically try to restart itself shortly.

Low DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to automatically reset itself
  2. Turn the main power switch to the boiler off and back on again
  3. Ensure any external room thermostats or timers are set correctly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

4 red flashes

Your boiler's internal safety system has detected that the fan responsible for clearing exhaust gases is not working correctly, preventing the boiler from starting.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • PCB

Related codes

5 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief communication glitch with its internal computer brain, which it should fix by itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-280

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 10 minutes for the boiler to automatically reset itself
  2. Turn the boiler off at the main electrical switch and back on again after 30 seconds
  3. If the fault persists or recurs frequently, contact a Gas Safe engineer to check the electrical connections

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

5 red flashes

Your boiler's computer has lost its settings or is failing to communicate with its memory chip, causing the system to stop working.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Parameter Storage Unit (PSU)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

6 green flashes

Your boiler has encountered a minor temporary glitch and is currently attempting to restart itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 15 minutes for the boiler to complete its self-reset process
  2. Check that your external controls or thermostat are calling for heat
  3. If the flashing continues, turn the power to the boiler off and back on again at the fused spur switch

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if fault persists
Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has detected a general internal fault that is preventing it from firing up safely, often caused by a component failing to communicate properly.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Fuse
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

FLASH OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected that the incoming electrical supply is too weak to power the system safely.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check if there is a power cut or brownout in your local area
  2. Ensure the boiler is plugged directly into its dedicated fused spur and not an extension lead
  3. Check if other heavy appliances are causing a temporary voltage drop when they turn on

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Voltage Regulator
FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has got too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevents damage.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open and not stuck shut
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the external gauge if applicable
  3. Press the overheat reset button located on the bottom of the boiler control box

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Thermistor
FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer brain has developed an electronic fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £220-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box
FLASH ON ON

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £240-£380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system or has detected heat with no water present, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your external system pump is running and hasn't seized
  3. Check the central heating header tank in the loft has water

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Flow/Return Thermistor

Related codes

ON FLASH ON

Your boiler has detected a problem with its temperature sensor and has stopped running to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected that the electrical wiring coming into the unit is connected incorrectly, meaning the power flow is backwards.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and is unable to manage the system safely.

High Engineer only £220-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
110

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler off and allow the system to cool down completely
  2. Check all radiator valves are open and bleed any trapped air from your radiators
  3. Check that your system pressure is at the correct level (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  4. Locate the manual reset button on the boiler and press it to restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Thermistor (NTC Sensor)

Related codes

117

Your boiler has too much water inside it, which is putting excess stress on the internal pipework and safety valves.

Medium DIY-safe £60-140

What to check first

  1. Check that the external filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce system pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. If pressure continues to rise on its own, call a Gas Safe engineer

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a flexible silver hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two valves on the filling loop until you hear water entering.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a braided silver hose under or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

125

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system properly, causing it to overheat and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Pump Lead
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

127

Your boiler hasn't been able to heat the water hot enough to kill off harmful bacteria within the storage tank.

Medium Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Immersion Heater
  • Diverter Valve
  • PCB

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame rectification electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Spark generator

Related codes

133

Your boiler is failing to light the gas flame and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas prepayment meter has credit
  2. Ensure other gas appliances in your home are working
  3. Press the reset button or turn the selector switch to 'R' for 5 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition lead
  • Electrode set
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

153

Your boiler has likely experienced a technical internal error or a safety lockout that has been manually cleared, but the system is now failing to restart correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Release the button and wait for the boiler to attempt the ignition sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Lead
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

160

Your boiler's fan has failed to start or isn't running at the correct speed, which prevents the boiler from safely clearing out exhaust fumes and starting the ignition process.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan cannot safely push waste gases out through the flue pipe.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

164

Your boiler has detected an issue with how water is flowing through the system, preventing it from heating up safely.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow switch
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

166

Your boiler is unable to safely clear away waste gases, so it has stopped running to prevent a build-up of fumes.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water circulating inside it, causing it to overheat rapidly and shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • System filter

Related codes

432

Your boiler has detected an electrical safety issue where the internal components are not properly grounded, causing the system to shut down for protection.

High Engineer only £90-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • External earth bonding
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

433

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected that the internal water temperature is far too hot and needs to cool down for safety.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is at 1.5 bar
  3. Switch the boiler off and on again to attempt a reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)

Related codes

E.00 – .04

Your boiler has detected that a small internal thermometer that monitors water coming back into the system is disconnected or faulty, causing the unit to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness / Connector
E.00 – .05

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly read the temperature of the water returning to the unit due to a faulty or disconnected sensor.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.01 – .02

Your boiler is confused because the water coming back from your radiators seems hotter than the water leaving the boiler, which usually means water isn't moving through the system correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)
  • System bypass valve
E.01 – .04

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit and has locked itself out for safety after multiple failed attempts.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. Press the reset button or turn the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Ignition Lead
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler's fan is not spinning at the right speed to safely clear waste gases, likely due to a mechanical failure or a strong gust of wind blocking the flue.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Gas/air unit
E.01 – .12

Your boiler has sensed that the water returning from your radiators is hotter than the water leaving the boiler, which usually means the water isn't circulating correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the boiler control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds then release.
  3. Check that your radiator valves are open and that the pump is running if accessible.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Circulation pump
  • PCB
E.01 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system properly or a sensor has lost connection.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or dial on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Check that your radiator valves are open and not blocked

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Wiring Loom
E.01 – .20

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution, usually because water isn't moving through the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your external pump is running
  3. Rotate the selector switch to 'Reset' for five seconds, then back to 'On'

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flue gas NTC sensor
  • Heat exchanger (descaling)
E.02 – .00

Your boiler is simply notifying you that the reset button was recently held or pressed, which can sometimes happen during a manual restart or testing.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its internal check cycles.
  2. Ensure the mode dial is set to the 'On' or 'Auto' position.
  3. If the code persists, try turning the power off and back on at the fused spur switch.
E.02 – .07

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose underneath the boiler).
  2. Open the black tap/taps slowly until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once it reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
E.02 – .16

Your boiler's internal computer has suffered a serious electronic failure and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Channel Service Unit (CSU)
E.02 – .17

Your boiler has lost the internal connection between its main control board and the gas system, meaning it cannot safely light the burner to provide heat.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .19

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been altered or are incorrect, preventing it from starting up properly.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Jumper Link
E.02 – .20

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been changed or detected incorrectly, which is preventing it from running properly.

Medium Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Selector Jumper Pin
Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been altered or are mismatched, preventing the system from starting correctly.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Control Board Jumper
E.02 – .47

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with external controls like your thermostat or timer due to a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External timer
  • Room thermostat
  • Wiring harness
E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your thermostat or wireless receiver, which often happens when the connection signal is lost or the devices need re-pairing.

High DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat has fresh batteries and is powered on.
  2. Try moving the thermostat closer to the boiler to see if signal strength improves.
  3. Follow your thermostat manufacturer's instructions to restart or re-pair the wireless connection (often involving a 'sync' button on the receiver).

Parts commonly replaced

  • Room thermostat batteries
  • Wireless receiver pack
  • PCB (in rare communication failure cases)
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost communication with the internal valve that controls the gas supply, meaning the system cannot fire up to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .01

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water moving through the system.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .02

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot communicate with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water flowing to your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .03

Your boiler has overheated because water is not moving through the system properly or at all.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key
  4. Perform a reset by turning the control knob to 'R' and back

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger
E.04 – .04

Your boiler has identified an issue with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, and it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Wiring Harness
  • Flue Temperature Sensor
E.04 – .05

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the exhaust gases leaving the system.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main control board

Related codes

E.04 – .06

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, which is likely caused by water not moving through the system correctly or a faulty internal sensor.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Flue Gas Temperature Sensor
  • Overheat Thermostat
Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature and has automatically shut down to prevent damage or overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is within the correct range (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Turn the boiler off and back on again to attempt a reset once it has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation Pump
E.04 – .10

Your boiler has failed to ignite, meaning it is unable to create a flame to provide heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Ensure your gas pre-payment meter has sufficient credit
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .12

Your boiler detects a flame when there shouldn't be one, or the internal burner is overheating, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionization electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Burner head
E.04 – .13

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that clears away waste gases is jammed or cannot spin properly.

High Engineer only £220-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a serious problem with how it controls gas or air, and has locked itself out for safety.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Gas/air unit
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
E0

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors internal heat, which stops it from running safely and providing heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down completely.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators in your home.
  3. Check that all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open.
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

E2

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system effectively, which is usually caused by trapped air or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off your heating and let the radiators cool down.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed all radiators, starting from the lowest floor.
  3. Check your boiler pressure gauge and top it up if it has dropped below 1.0 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Automatic air vent
  • Flow temperature sensor

Related codes

E3

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £240-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E4

Your boiler is struggling to light and stay on, which can sometimes be caused by air trapped in your heating system.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow the radiators to cool down.
  2. Using a radiator key, bleed all radiators to release trapped air.
  3. Restart the boiler to see if the ignition failure clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas control valve, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas control valve
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E10

Your boiler is struggling to work out how hard to run because the sensor that monitors the weather outside has stopped sending a clear signal.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • External temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E12

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating properly through the system, preventing it from firing up for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the gauge
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential pressure switch
  • Circulating pump
  • Diaphragm

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that a internal water pressure switch is stuck or blocked, preventing the unit from starting the ignition process for your heating.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential Water Pressure Switch
  • Diaphragm
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

E15

Your boiler has detected a communication problem with the gas valve, meaning it cannot safely trigger a flame to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of the water flowing to your radiators, which prevents it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (Flow) NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it disposes of waste gases, which could be caused by a sensor fault or a physical blockage.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water coming back from your radiators, preventing it from heating correctly.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

E50

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water is giving an incorrect reading or has failed, meaning the system cannot safely heat your water to the right temperature.

High Engineer only £110-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC thermistor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E53

Your boiler is struggling to breathe properly because the exhaust outlet outside your home might be obstructed, causing poor burning conditions.

Emergency DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check the external flue terminal (the exhaust pipe outside) for any physical obstructions like bird nests, leaves, or debris.
  2. Gently remove any visible external blockages if it is safe to reach.
  3. Ensure there are no items like garden furniture or storage boxes leaned against or blocking the flue.
  4. Reset the boiler once the external area is clear; if the fault persists, call a Gas Safe engineer.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue terminal
  • Gas valve
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is struggling to detect when you turn on a hot tap, meaning you are likely getting cold water or inconsistent temperatures.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW flow sensor
  • Flow turbine
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E55

Your boiler’s internal computer has lost its timing settings and needs to be professionally synchronised to burn gas safely and efficiently.

High Engineer only £100-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E78

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure its internal water pressure, which means it cannot tell if it is safe to start or keep running.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's internal computer has lost its connection with the control panel or external thermostat, meaning it cannot receive instructions to turn on.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your wireless thermostat or programmer has fresh batteries.
  2. Ensure the thermostat is within range of the boiler and there are no new obstructions.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the control knob to 'Reset' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External controls/Thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring loom
E92

Your boiler has detected an issue with the air and gas mixture while trying to automatically adjust its settings and has shut down to ensure safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E100

Your boiler's internal computer has lost track of the correct time, preventing it from following your heating schedule.

Medium Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Timer/Clock Module

Related codes

E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system properly, which is causing it to stop running to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the main boiler power switch is on
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Verify that the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Pressure sensor
  • Flow/Return thermistors

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has likely overheated, causing a safety sensor to automatically shut the system down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are turned on and not blocked
  2. Allow the boiler to cool down for at least 30 minutes
  3. Locate the reset button (usually behind the drop-down flap) and press it firmly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Thermistor

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has too much water in the system, which is causing it to shut down to prevent damage from overpressure.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the external filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce the pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the system to ensure it returns to 1.0 - 1.5 bar
  4. Press the reset button to restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop (if leaking)
  • Pressure Relief Valve

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible silver hose) usually found underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small valve handle(s) on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel repressurisation

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low for the system to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the tap or taps on the filling loop to let water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E125

Your boiler is unable to move hot water around the system effectively, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned off.
  2. Ensure your system water pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

E128

Your boiler is repeatedly struggling to keep its burner lit, causing it to shut down for safety after 12 failed attempts.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit during its startup and setup phase, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot and has shut down to prevent internal damage.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger (cleaning or replacement)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected that the exhaust gases are becoming too hot, which is a safety feature to prevent damage to the system.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Heat Exchanger
  • NTC Sensor

Related codes

E133

Your boiler is failing to light because it either cannot get enough gas or the system is not detecting a flame.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and that the gas supply valve is open.
  2. Try restarting other gas appliances like a hob to confirm gas is flowing to the house.
  3. Press the reset button on the boiler controls to attempt to clear the fault.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Spark electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E134

Your boiler is trying to light but cannot detect a flame, meaning it is failing to ignite properly after multiple attempts.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • PCB

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect a steady flow of gas, which is likely due to an internal part failure or a supply issue.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Electrode

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has noticed that water is not circulating correctly or the temperature sensors are disagreeing with each other.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that removes waste gases cannot spin at the correct speed or communicate with the main controls.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Fan wiring harness

Related codes

E160 / E161

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that safely pushes waste gases out of your home, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch
E163

Your boiler is unable to read the temperature of your hot water properly, which means your taps and showers likely won't get warm.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC thermistor sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E164

Your boiler is having trouble measuring its internal water pressure, which means it will stop running to protect the system.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and is struggling to communicate with the rest of the unit.

High Engineer only £240-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E168

Your boiler’s internal computer has encountered a memory or software error and has stopped working to protect itself.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External Flame Sensor

Related codes

E193

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system properly before it begins the full heating process.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is too low

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E270

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to overheat quickly as if it were running dry.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Primary heat exchanger
  • Overheat thermostat

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected that the electricity coming from your mains supply is at the wrong frequency, preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External Voltage Regulator

Related codes

E321

Your boiler's hot water sensor has failed or is sending an incorrect reading, meaning the system cannot safely monitor the temperature of your water.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness connectors

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks a flame is present even when it hasn't been told to ignite, which is a safety conflict that prevents the system from starting.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power to operate safely, which is usually caused by an external power cut or an internal electrical failure.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Transformer

Related codes

E430

Your boiler is checking if there is enough water pressure to operate safely and has paused briefly to confirm the system is stable.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on your system to ensure it is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. If the pressure is too low, use the external filling loop valves to top up the water
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open and that the pump is not making unusual noises

Parts commonly replaced

  • External filling loop
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has lost its connection to the internal gas control valve, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler is shutting down because the water inside is heating up too quickly or isn't moving through the pipes fast enough.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking circulation

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow and return thermistors (NTC sensors)
  • Heat exchanger (if scaled or blocked)

Related codes

H.01 – .08

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system properly, causing it to heat up much faster than it should and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air which may be blocking circulation

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • System diverter valve
H.01 – .14

Your boiler has shut down temporarily because its internal temperature has risen too high or the water is not moving through the system quickly enough.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure the system pressure is within the green zone on the gauge (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that could be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger (Descaling)
H.01 – .18

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which is causing it to stop running to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check the system pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • NTC Temperature sensors
  • Flow switch
H.01 – .21

Your boiler is heating up too quickly and has shut down temporarily to prevent overheating, likely because water isn't moving through the system fast enough.

Medium DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Check for any visible leaks around the pipework
  4. Restart the boiler to see if the temporary fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • DHW temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Plate heat exchanger
H.02 – .02

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been set up correctly or has lost its memory, so it doesn't know how to operate.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Plug
Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer settings have become scrambled and don't match the specific model requirements.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Parameter Key
H.02 – .04

Your boiler's computer memory has become confused about its internal settings and cannot operate as intended.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Display Interface
H.02 – .06

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is either too low or there is a leak somewhere in the heating system, causing it to stop for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on your system to see if it is below 1 bar.
  2. If pressure is low, use the external filling loop valves to top up the system to 1.5 bar.
  3. Inspect visible pipework and radiator valves for any signs of water leaks.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
H.03 -.00

Your boiler is having trouble reading the temperature accurately due to a connection or sensor problem, causing it to stop running for safety.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flue Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
H.03 – .01

Your boiler's main control center and display screen have stopped talking to each other, preventing the unit from starting up.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Control Wiring Loom
  • Display Interface Board

Related codes

H.03 – .02

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, meaning it cannot provide heat or hot water safely.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler has no power and is completely unresponsive, meaning the control lights are not turning on at all.

High DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Check if the boiler's power switch or fused spur on the wall is turned on
  2. Inspect your home's main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped
  3. Replace the 3-amp fuse in the boiler's power spur switch

Parts commonly replaced

  • External fuse
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
ON OFF ON

Your boiler has failed to light several times and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active and credit is on the meter
  2. Turn the selector switch to the reset position or 'Off' for 10 seconds
  3. Switch the boiler back on and see if the pilot light ignites

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem between its main control components.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control box assembly

Related codes