Baxi Titanium Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-40 kW 2010-2016 Discontinued

Replaced by: Potterton Titanium+ / Baxi Platinum

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 112 High 8 Medium 8 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 green flash

Your boiler has reached the required temperature and is taking a normal break between heating cycles.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your thermostat is set to the temperature you want
  2. Wait for the boiler to restart automatically once the water temperature drops
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are open if your home is still cold
1 red flash

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot or that water isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-220

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Switch the boiler off and back on again to attempt a reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down for safety, which is why your heating and hot water have stopped working.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open and not turned to zero.
  2. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Wait for the boiler to cool down and then turn the selector switch to 'R' (Reset) for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

3 green flashes

Your boiler has briefly lost its flame and is attempting to restart itself automatically.

Medium DIY-safe £0-150

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is active (e.g. check other gas appliances)
  2. Wait for the boiler to attempt an automatic reset
  3. Monitor the display to see if the error clears or turns into a solid red fault
  4. Ensure there are no external obstructions to the flue terminal

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler is failing to light its burner after five attempts and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances (like a hob) are working
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Lead
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief moment where its electronic brains struggled to talk to each other, but it should fix itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait a few minutes for the boiler to complete its automatic self-reset process
  2. If the lights continue flashing, switch the power to the boiler off and back on again
  3. Ensure any external room thermostats or timers have fresh batteries and a clear signal

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control Interface Cable
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

4 red flashes

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of your home, is not spinning correctly or at all.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

5 green flashes

Your boiler's computer has hit a temporary glitch while reading its settings and is currently trying to fix itself.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic self-reset process
  2. If the flashing continues for more than 10 minutes, try turning the selector switch to 'Reset' for five seconds
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if the green lights return to a steady state

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually self-corrects)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

5 red flashes

Your boiler's internal memory chip has developed a communication fault or become corrupted, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Parameter Storage Unit (PSU)
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

6 green flashes

Your boiler has encountered a minor, temporary glitch and is currently trying to fix itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait 5-10 minutes to see if the boiler resets itself
  2. Turn the selector switch to the 'Reset' position for five seconds
  3. Check that your gas supply is active and that other gas appliances are working

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Ignition Electrode
  • PCB

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has detected a general internal fault that is preventing it from running properly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Turn the selector switch to the reset position and hold for 5 seconds
  2. Check that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has credit
  3. Ensure any external condensate pipes are not frozen or blocked

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
  • Gas valve

Related codes

FLASH FLASH ON

Your boiler's fan is not spinning correctly, which means it cannot safely remove exhaust fumes or pull in fresh air to stay alight.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

FLASH OFF FLASH

Your boiler has stopped working because the electricity supply reaching it is too low to safely power the system.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External voltage regulator
  • Internal wiring harness

Related codes

FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has got too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the gauge.
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down, then press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical communication error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

FLASH ON ON

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a serious communication error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water moving through the system to keep it running safely.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Open all radiator valves and ensures none are blocked by furniture
  3. If the pressure is low, use the filling loop to top the system up with water

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow switch
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

ON FLASH ON

Your boiler has detected a faulty internal temperature sensor, which means it cannot accurately monitor the water temperature and has stopped working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected that the electrical wiring connecting it to your home's power supply is incorrectly configured.

High Engineer only £80-130

Parts commonly replaced

  • External wiring connections
  • Fused spur
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

110

Your boiler has reached too high a temperature and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down completely.
  2. Check all radiator valves are open and bleed any air from the radiators using a radiator key.
  3. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, refilling via the filling loop if necessary.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

117

Your boiler has detected that there is too much water in the system, causing the pressure to rise above the safe operating limit.

High DIY-safe £80-160

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Switch off the boiler and bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. If pressure continues to rise on its own, turn off the mains water and call an engineer

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system has dropped too low, which prevents it from running for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small taps) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the tap or taps until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps firmly when it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Restart the boiler if it doesn't automatically reset.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel re-pressurisation
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two valves on the loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

125

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system properly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)
  • Water Pressure Sensor

Related codes

127

Your boiler has failed to heat the water to a high enough temperature to kill off bacteria, usually because the hot water hasn't been used or heated fully for a while.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water cylinder thermostat is set to at least 60°C.
  2. Ensure your hot water heating times are set long enough for the tank to reach full temperature.
  3. Restart the boiler and allow it to run a full hot water heating cycle.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder sensor
  • External NTC thermistor

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to work but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas supply.
  2. Verify that your pre-paid gas meter has credit.
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator

Related codes

133

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot successfully stay lit, resulting in a lockout for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active and other gas appliances are working
  2. Check if your condensate pipe is frozen outside if it has been very cold
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Lead
  • PCB

Related codes

153

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times or the reset button has been held down for too long, causing the control system to temporarily lock itself.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 to 10 seconds.
  3. Release the button and wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • N/A (Software reset usually sufficient)
  • Main PCB (if fault persists)

Related codes

160

Your boiler's fan is not spinning at the correct speed, which prevents the system from safely venting gases and starting the ignition process.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler is struggling to safely clear away exhaust fumes or pull in fresh air, causing it to shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan
  • Flue Seal

Related codes

164

Your boiler is having trouble detecting the flow of water through the system, which is preventing it from heating up correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Flow switch
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

166

Your boiler has detected a problem with how air is moving through the system, meaning it cannot safely clear waste gases and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that it is heating up too quickly because there isn't enough water moving through the system to carry the heat away.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Top up the system using the filling loop if the pressure is too low
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open
  4. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • System Filter

Related codes

432

Your boiler has detected a problem with its electrical safety grounding, which is preventing the system from running safely.

High Engineer only £90-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Main Control PCB
  • Earth connection cable

Related codes

433

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected that the water inside is getting too hot, likely due to a circulation problem.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)
  • Main heat exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

E.00 – .04

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor (Temperature Sensor)
  • Wiring harness connecting the sensor

Related codes

E.00 – .05

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the water returning to the unit, meaning it cannot accurately track temperature and has stopped working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E.01 – .02

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water going out, which usually means the water sensors are confused or there is a circulation problem.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

E.01 – .04

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame lit and has shut down for safety after failing to stay ignited multiple times.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Inspect the condensate pipe outside to ensure it hasn't frozen or become blocked by debris
  3. Press the 'R' or Reset button for 5 seconds to see if the system clears the fault

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler's fan is not spinning at the correct speed to safely clear exhaust fumes, likely due to a mechanical failure or strong wind blowing back into the flue.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E.01 – .12

Your boiler has stopped working because it thinks the water returning to the unit is hotter than the water leaving it, which is often caused by a circulation blockage or a trapped air pocket.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for at least five seconds
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow
  3. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Return NTC sensor
  • Flow NTC sensor

Related codes

E.01 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system properly or a temperature sensor is disconnected.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.01 – .20

Your boiler has shut down because it has become too hot internally, likely due to a lack of water flow or a sensor issue.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open to allow water flow
  2. Check your boiler pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Plate Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E.02 – .00

Your boiler has recorded that the reset button was pressed and it is currently performing a brief self-check before restarting.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait 30-60 seconds for the boiler to complete its reboot sequence
  2. Check if the display returns to the normal temperature reading
  3. If the code persists, try pressing the reset button once more

Related codes

E.02 – .07

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually two small taps on a silver braided hose under the boiler).
  2. Open both taps slowly until you hear water entering the system and watch the pressure gauge needle rise.
  3. Close both taps tightly once the pressure gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

E.02 – .16

Your boiler's internal computer has suffered a serious electronic failure and can no longer communicate with the heating system.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Channel Service Unit (CSU)

Related codes

E.02 – .17

Your boiler's electronic control board can no longer talk to the gas supply unit, meaning the system cannot safely manage the fuel needed to start the heater.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.02 – .19

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been changed or are set incorrectly, meaning the control board doesn't know which specific model it is operating.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Selector Jumper
E.02 – .20

Your boiler's internal configuration settings have been altered or are correctly mismatched with the control board's software.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Jumper Link
Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's internal computer settings have been altered or are misconfigured, preventing it from functioning correctly.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Selector Jumpers
E.02 – .47

Your boiler has lost communication with an external control, such as your thermostat or programmer, likely due to a loose wire or electrical fault.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Thermostat
  • RF Receiver
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your wireless thermostat or external controller.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if your wireless thermostat has run out of batteries.
  2. Ensure the thermostat is within range of the boiler and has no obstructions nearby.
  3. Follow your thermostat manual to re-pair or sync the device with the boiler receiver.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Batteries
  • RF Receiver
  • Wireless Thermostat
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost communication with the gas control valve, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E.04 – .01

Your boiler has stopped working because one of its internal heat sensors is reporting a faulty connection and can no longer measure the water temperature correctly.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E.04 – .02

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .03

Your boiler has shut down because it is overheating, which usually means the water is not moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • System diverter valve
E.04 – .04

Your boiler has identified an issue with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .05

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust fumes, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • External Flue
E.04 – .06

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent internal damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Flue Thermistor
  • Heat Exchanger cleaning/replacement
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, likely due to a lack of water flow or a faulty sensor.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the bypass valve are open
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds
  4. Wait 30 minutes for the unit to cool down before restarting

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Circulating Pump
E.04 – .10

Your boiler has failed to ignite, which means it isn't getting enough gas or cannot create a flame to provide warmth and hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working to confirm your gas supply is active.
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, ensure you have credit and the valve is open.
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or 'Reset' button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • PCB

Related codes

E.04 – .12

Your boiler detects a flame when there shouldn't be one, or the internal burner is overheating, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E.04 – .13

Your boiler has detected that the fan responsible for clearing exhaust fumes is stuck or not spinning correctly, preventing the system from starting for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extractor Fan
  • Fan Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a serious internal communication or hardware failure regarding how it manages gas and air, preventing it from firing up safely.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

E0

Your boiler's internal thermometer has stopped communicating correctly, meaning the system can no longer reliably tell how hot the water is.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Bleed your radiators using a radiator key to remove trapped air
  3. Once cooled, press the reset button on the front of the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

E2

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the heating system, which is causing it to stop running to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £80-£350

What to check first

  1. Check your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Switch off the heating and use a radiator key to bleed air from all radiators
  3. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensors

Related codes

E3

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Wiring Harness

Related codes

E4

Your boiler is struggling to light its flame, which could be caused by air trapped in your system or a gas supply issue.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off your heating and allow the radiators to cool down.
  2. Bled all radiators using a radiator key to remove any trapped air.
  3. Check that your gas stopcock and any other gas appliances are turned on.
  4. Press and hold the Reset button on the boiler for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Spark Lead

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas control system, meaning it cannot safely release fuel to create a flame.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E10

Your boiler is struggling to understand the temperature outside, which may cause it to run less efficiently or use the wrong settings for your home.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E12

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, which has caused it to stop running for your safety.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open.
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Differential Water Pressure Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that a internal water flow sensor is stuck in the 'on' position, preventing the system from starting its safety checks.

High Engineer only £100-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential water pressure switch
  • Flow sensor diaphragm
  • Hydraulic microswitch

Related codes

E15

Your boiler's electronic control board has detected a communication error or a fault with the gas valve, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler's temperature sensor has developed a fault or is disconnected, preventing the system from heating your home properly.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it disposes of waste gases or a blocked drainage pipe, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check the white plastic condensate pipe outside for signs of freezing or blockages.
  2. Inspect the external flue terminal to ensure it is not obstructed by debris or garden growth.
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating Return NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

E50

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has developed a fault, meaning the system cannot accurately monitor or provide hot water to your taps.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness / Connector

Related codes

E53

Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases are not clearing properly, which could mean the flue pipe is obstructed.

Emergency Engineer only £90-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue seals
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is struggling to detect when you turn on a hot tap, which may result in your water failing to heat up or turning cold unexpectedly.

Medium Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Flow Turbine
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E55

Your boiler has lost its settings and needs to be recalibrated to ensure the gas and air are mixing correctly to heat your home.

High Engineer only £100-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Electrode

Related codes

E78

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors internal water pressure, meaning it cannot confirm if there is enough water to run safely.

High Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's internal computer has lost contact with its control sensors or external thermostat, meaning it cannot receive instructions to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Remote control/Thermostat interface

Related codes

E92

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fuel and air mixture while trying to calibrate itself automatically.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Electrode
  • PCB
E100

Your boiler's internal computer has lost track of the correct time and date, which may prevent your heating schedules from working correctly.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the user control panel on the front of the boiler
  2. Navigate to the 'Settings' or 'Clock' menu using the selector dial
  3. Update the time and date to the current values and press 'OK' to save

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system efficiently, which is often caused by a blockage or a pump issue.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Bleed any radiators that have trapped air to help the water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Flow and return thermistors

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has likely overheated, causing a safety sensor to automatically shut the system down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the bypass valve are open to allow water flow
  3. Turn the selector knob to 'R' (Reset) for five seconds and then release

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your pipes is too high, causing the system to stop for safety.

High DIY-safe £60-120

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator and use a bleed key to release a small amount of water into a container.
  2. Monitor the pressure gauge on the boiler as you bleed the radiator.
  3. Stop once the pressure gauge returns to the green zone, typically between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with one or two small taps) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both taps (or the single handle) until you hear water running and watch the pressure gauge.
  3. Once the gauge reaches 1.5 bar, close both taps tightly and reset the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the tap handles on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Ensure the taps are fully closed and press the Reset button on the control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E125

Your boiler has detected that hot water isn't moving through the system properly, which is usually caused by a trapped air bubble or a pump that has stopped working.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air
  3. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Plate Heat Exchanger
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

E128

Your boiler has lost its flame multiple times in a short period and has now shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to maintain a steady flame during its automatic setup process, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot, which is a safety feature to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £100-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger (cleaning or replacement)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has shut itself down because it detected that the exhaust gases have become too hot, which is a safety measure to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC sensor
  • Heat exchanger (descaling or replacement)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has failed to light because it either isn't receiving gas or is unable to detect a flame.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position.
  2. If you have a pre-payment meter, ensure you have credit and the meter is active.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler fascia for 5 seconds to attempt a restart.
  4. In freezing weather, check if your external condensate pipe has frozen and thaw it with warm water.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • PCB

Related codes

E134

Your boiler is struggling to ignite because it cannot detect a flame despite trying to open the gas valve several times in a row.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit (if on prepay)
  2. Ensure other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are receiving gas
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Detection Lead

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas supply due to an internal electronic error or a blockage, meaning it cannot ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has noticed that its internal temperature sensors are giving conflicting readings, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that helps clear exhaust fumes, meaning it has stopped working for your safety.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extraction Fan
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E160 / E161

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of your home, is not spinning at the correct speed or has stopped working entirely.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E163

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors hot water temperature, which means it may not be able to heat your taps and showers reliably.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC thermistor sensor
  • Wiring harness connectors

Related codes

E164

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors water pressure, which is preventing it from heating your home or water.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a communication error and cannot control the system properly.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E168

Your boiler's internal computer is confused or struggling to communicate, often due to an electrical interruption or a failing component.

High DIY-safe £250-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or turn the selector knob to the 'R' position.
  2. Hold the reset for 5 seconds and then release.
  3. Ensure your electricity fuse board hasn't tripped and that your mains power is stable.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Surge Protector

Related codes

E193

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving correctly around the system before it starts the heating process, often due to a blockage or trapped air.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Auto Air Vent
  • Flow Temperature Sensor

Related codes

E270

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, which is causing it to overheat too quickly.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves (under the boiler) are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are turned to the highest setting
  3. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is too low
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)
  • Flow and return thermistors

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical power timing coming into the unit, which is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Power Supply/Inverter

Related codes

E321

Your boiler's hot water sensor is not reading the temperature correctly, which stops it from providing hot water.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks there is a flame present even when it hasn't been told to ignite, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler is receiving an inconsistent or low supply of electricity, which is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness
  • External Fuse Spur

Related codes

E430

Your boiler is performing a temporary check to ensure there is enough water pressure to operate safely.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop to top it up to 1.5 bar
  3. Monitor the display to see if the code clears automatically after the test finishes

Parts commonly replaced

  • External filling loop
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas control system, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler is overheating because the water isn't moving through the system quickly enough or the temperature sensors are giving conflicting readings.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • NTC thermistor (Flow or Return sensor)
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing/cleaning)

Related codes

H.01 – .08

Your boiler is overheating or water isn't moving through the system fast enough to keep the unit cool.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed any trapped air from your radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)

Related codes

H.01 – .14

Your boiler has detected that the internal water is getting too hot too quickly, often because the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system by checking the gauge
  3. Switch the boiler off and back on again to see if the temporary fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Flow/Return thermistor

Related codes

H.01 – .18

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly or a sensor is misreading the internal temperature.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

H.01 – .21

Your boiler is heating up too quickly when you try to use hot water, often because water isn't flowing through the system fast enough.

Medium DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that the main water stopcock and all isolation valves under the boiler are fully open.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Check if the fault clears after turning the hot water tap off and back on again.

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Plate Heat Exchanger
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

H.02 – .02

Your boiler’s internal computer has lost its settings and doesn't know how to operate correctly, likely due to a recent repair or a power interruption.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Plug

Related codes

Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler is momentarily confused by its internal electronic settings and needs a quick restart to synchronise its software.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or selector switch on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence
  4. If the fault reappears immediately, contact a Gas Safe engineer to check PCB settings

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset usually resolves it)
  • Main PCB (if fault persists)

Related codes

H.02 – .04

Your boiler's computer system is confused and cannot identify its own settings, causing it to stop working for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or selector knob on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds, then release.
  3. Wait up to 10 minutes for the boiler to cycle through its startup sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Parameter Plug

Related codes

H.02 – .06

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, likely due to a minor leak or the system needing a top-up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the valves slowly until the pressure gauge on the boiler screen reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valves tightly and restart the boiler to clear the fault code.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve

Related codes

H.03 -.00

Your boiler is struggling to read information from its internal temperature sensors, which is preventing it from heating up correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-£220

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or selector switch on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the 'R' or reset button for at least five seconds.
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence to see if the error clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flue Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.03 – .01

Your boiler's internal computer is having trouble talking to its main control board, which has caused the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.03 – .02

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, which means it has stopped providing heat or hot water for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler has lost all electrical power and is currently switched off or disconnected from its power source.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler's main power switch (often a fused spur) is turned on.
  2. Inspect your home's main fuse box or consumer unit to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.
  3. Ensure the fuse in the boiler's external plug or wall switch has not blown.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fuse
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

ON OFF ON

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot establish a flame, meaning it has shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas prepay meter has credit
  2. Verify other gas appliances like a hob are working
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector knob to the 'R' position for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low voltage wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes