Baxi System Fault codes & diagnostics

21 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural Gas 2016-present

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
21 High

All 21 documented codes

Tap any card for details

neon flashing

Your boiler has detected an internal error and has locked itself out for safety, requiring a professional inspection to identify the specific part that has failed.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan
  • Gas Valve
24

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the flame or the internal drainage pipe is backed up with water.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if your condensate pipe (typically a white plastic pipe outside) is frozen or blocked.
  2. Thaw a frozen pipe with warm (not boiling) water or a hot water bottle.
  3. Press the Reset button for five seconds to restart the system.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Condensate Trap
25

Your boiler has stopped heating because it is struggling to accurately read the temperature of the water circulating through your radiators.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
26

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan isn't moving air through the system properly or there is a blockage in the exhaust pipe.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB
27

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low or the pump that circulates water is struggling to move it through the system.

High DIY-safe £60-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is low, use the filling loop valves to top the system up until the needle reaches the green zone.
  3. Restart the boiler to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Water Pressure Sensor
28

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor that monitors your hot water temperature, meaning it cannot heat your water safely or accurately.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
29

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water used to heat your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
No Water Flow

Your boiler is struggling to detect water moving through the system, causing it to continuously turn itself on and off to protect against overheating.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow switch
  • Diverter valve cartridge
  • Central heating pump
Section A

Your boiler is not receiving any electrical power from the main supply or has a blown internal fuse, leaving the unit completely unresponsive.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check if other appliances in the house have power
  2. Check your main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped
  3. Ensure the boiler’s external isolation switch (fused spur) is turned on and its fuse hasn't blown

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal PCB fuse
  • Main power cable
  • Control PCB

Related codes

Section B

Your boiler has lost electrical power to the pump, which means it cannot circulate water to your radiators or hot water tank.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
Showing 11–20 of 21
Section C

Your boiler has detected low water pressure or a trapped air pocket, which is preventing it from circulating heat properly.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is low, use the external filling loop valves to top up the system with water.
  3. Ensure all radiator bleed valves and the boiler's automatic air vent are not blocked or tightly closed.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Primary flow valve diaphragm
  • Automatic air vent
  • Filling loop assembly

Related codes

Section D

Your boiler has detected a failure in one of its internal safety sensors or the fan, meaning it cannot circulate water or vent gases safely and has stopped working.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow microswitch
  • Primary temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Fan assembly
Section E

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it extracts exhaust fumes, often caused by a blocked pipe or a sensor problem, and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi
  • Flue Fan
Section F

Your boiler has tried to light but cannot find enough gas to start the heating process.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit or if the emergency control valve is turned on.
  2. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker or hob, are working correctly.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Section G

Your boiler is not controlling the gas flow to the burner correctly, which has caused it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Modulator Coil
Section H

Your boiler is struggling to light its flame, meaning it cannot heat your water or radiators until the ignition problem is fixed.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Spark generator
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Section I

Your boiler is struggling to detect whether the gas has actually lit, causing it to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £100-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Section J

Your boiler has got too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage to the internal components.

High DIY-safe £90-£220

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to off
  2. Allow the boiler to cool down for at least 30 minutes
  3. Press the 'Reset' button or turn the selector switch to R for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
Section K

Your boiler's main control dial or internal computer has developed a fault, meaning the system cannot correctly process a reset command or switch between modes.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Selector Switch Potentiometer
Section L

Your boiler has stopped working because the waste water pipe that drains excess liquid away is blocked or frozen.

High DIY-safe £80-140

What to check first

  1. Locate the plastic pipe leading from the boiler to the outside of your property.
  2. If the weather is freezing, pour warm (not boiling) water over the external pipe to melt any ice blockages.
  3. Ensure any internal drain traps are clear and the boiler is reset using the dial or button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate trap
  • Condensate discharge pipe
  • External pipe insulation
Showing 21–21 of 21
Section M

Your boiler has switched itself off because the exhaust gases have become too hot, which is a safety measure to prevent damage to the system.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Burner Insulation