Ferroli Modena F Fault codes & diagnostics

21 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-32 kW 2006-2015 Discontinued

Replaced by: Modena HE

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
10 High 1 Medium 10 Low
Just want the most common Ferroli Modena F faults?
The top 6 problems in plain English — with causes, DIY checks and repair costs.
Fault codes

All 21 documented codes

Tap any card for details

LED / flash-pattern codes
LED 4 (Flashing)

Your boiler is currently in standby mode for the central heating and is waiting for a signal from your thermostat to turn on.

Low DIY-safe £0-60

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to an 'ON' period.
  3. Replace the batteries in your wireless thermostat if the display is faint or blank.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • Room thermostat
  • External programmer

Related codes

Full explanation for LED 4 (Flashing)
LED 5 (Flashing)

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your radiators or pipework is too low for it to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Gradually open the black handles (one or two) to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the handles once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
Full explanation for LED 5 (Flashing)
LED4 flashing

Your boiler is currently taking a brief planned break between heating cycles to protect its components and ensure efficiency.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait 3 to 5 minutes for the 'egg timer' delay to finish automatically
  2. Check that your room thermostat is set high enough to call for heat
  3. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar

Related codes

Full explanation for LED4 flashing
LED5 flashing

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water pressure in your heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Open the filling loop valves slowly until you hear water flowing and watch the pressure gauge.
  3. Close both valves tightly once the pressure gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel re-pressurisation
  • Pressure sensor
Full explanation for LED5 flashing
Digital codes
E01

Your boiler is unable to light the flame needed to heat your water or radiators, resulting in the system shutting down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home (like a hob) are working to ensure your gas supply is on
  2. Confirm you have credit on your gas meter if you use a prepay system
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel for 3-5 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Full explanation for E01
E02

Your boiler has got too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically between 1 and 1.5 bar).
  3. Wait for the boiler to cool down and press the 'reset' button on the control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

Full explanation for E02
E03

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot safely confirm that the fan is moving air and exhaust gases correctly through the system.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan assembly
  • Venting tubes
Full explanation for E03
E04

Your boiler has shut down because its internal temperature has gotten too high and a safety switch has tripped.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down and try pressing the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Central Heating Temperature Sensor (NTC)
Full explanation for E04
E05

Your boiler has lost its ability to measure the temperature of the water flowing to your radiators, which prevents the system from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating flow NTC sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E05
E06

Your boiler is struggling to correctly measure the temperature of your hot water, which usually means your taps or shower will only run cold.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E06
Showing 11–20 of 21
E31

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in your heating system is too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small valves underneath the boiler).
  2. Slowly open both taps/valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel re-pressurisation
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Full explanation for E31
LED 1

Your boiler is currently switched on and operating correctly, as this light is a status indicator rather than a fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this light indicates normal operation.
  2. Ensure your thermostat is set to the desired temperature.
  3. Monitor the control panel for any other flashing lights if the boiler stops working.

Related codes

Full explanation for LED 1
LED 2

Your boiler has detected an internal fault and has shut down as a safety precaution, meaning you currently have no heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Full explanation for LED 2
LED 3

Your boiler is currently working to heat your tap water, which is a normal operating status rather than a fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if a hot water tap is currently turned on or dripping
  2. Ensure your pre-heat function is not active if the light stays on while taps are closed
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if the light goes off once the water reaches temperature

Related codes

Full explanation for LED 3
LED 4 (Permanent)

Your boiler is currently operating normally and providing heat to your radiators.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat or programmer if you did not expect the heating to be on
  2. Turn down your thermostat to see if the light goes out, confirming control
  3. No action is required if your heating is working as intended

Related codes

Full explanation for LED 4 (Permanent)
LED 5 (Permanent)

Your boiler is receiving power and is currently in standby mode or operating normally, but it is not currently calling for heat or hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if the room thermostat is turned up high enough to trigger the heating
  2. Ensure any external timers or programmers are set to 'ON'
  3. Check if the boiler mode is set to 'Winter' (Heating + Hot Water) rather than just 'Summer' (Hot Water only)

Related codes

Full explanation for LED 5 (Permanent)
LED2 on

Your boiler has entered a safety lockout mode because it either failed to light properly or it has detected that the system is getting too hot.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on and you have credit on your meter.
  2. Locate the selector switch and turn it to the 'R' (Reset) position for several seconds, then back to 'On'.
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are open and the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

Full explanation for LED2 on
LED3 on

Your boiler is currently working to provide hot water to your taps, which is a normal operating signal rather than a fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if any hot water taps are slightly open or dripping
  2. Ensure your shower or bath mixer is fully turned off
  3. Monitor the light to see if it turns off once you stop using hot water

Related codes

Full explanation for LED3 on
LED4 permanent

Your boiler is currently operating normally in central heating mode to warm your radiators.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your room thermostat or programmer is set to 'On'
  2. Wait for the house to reach temperature; the light should go out when the heating turns off
  3. Turn down your room thermostat if you wish to stop the heating manually

Related codes

Full explanation for LED4 permanent
Showing 21–21 of 21
LED5 on

Your boiler is receiving electrical power and is currently sitting in standby mode or operating normally.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check if the room thermostat or timer is calling for heat
  2. Ensure the boiler control knob is turned to the 'ON' or 'Winter' position
  3. If the LED remains on but there is no heat, try a simple reset by turning the dial to 'RESET' for 5 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Thermostat
  • Control PCB

Related codes

Full explanation for LED5 on