Common problems guide

The most common Glow-worm EnergySaver Combi problems

The faults most likely to send a Glow-worm EnergySaver Combi into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
24 documented codes
6 most common
3 DIY-safe checks
3 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
1 2 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water pressure inside your heating system drops below a safe level, causing the boiler to shut down to prevent damage. The most common reasons are a slow leak from a pipe or radiator, or a loss of air in the expansion vessel which helps manage pressure changes. If you have recently bled your radiators, this can also cause the pressure to drop enough to trigger this code.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (a flexible silver hose) underneath or near the boiler.Slowly open the valves on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once it reaches 1.5 bar.

Est. cost
£0-£120
Parts
Filling loop, Expansion vessel, Pressure relief valve
Full guide for 1 2
02
04 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has lost its electrical power supply or experienced a sudden interruption, causing it to shut down safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler’s electronic brain suddenly loses its electrical connection, causing the unit to shut down instantly for safety. It is usually triggered by a blown internal fuse or a failure within the main circuit board that prevents power from flowing through the system. In some cases, an external issue like a tripped circuit breaker or a loose wire in the wall switch can also be the root cause.

What to try first

Check if there has been a local power cut in your street or homeCheck your property's main fuse box (consumer unit) to see if a circuit breaker has trippedEnsure the boiler’s fused spur switch (usually near the boiler) is turned onTry resetting the boiler by turning the selector knob to the 'Reset' position for 5 seconds

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Internal Glass Fuse, Printed Circuit Board (PCB), External Fused Spur
Full guide for 04
03
25 High DIY-safe

Your boiler is heating up much faster than it should and has shut down to prevent itself from overheating.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler gets hot too quickly because it isn't moving away from the heat source fast enough. The most common reasons are a pump that has failed or become stuck, or a blockage within the main heat exchanger that is restricting water flow.

What to try first

Check if your radiator valves are openEnsure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 barGently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Circulation Pump, Flow Thermistor (NTC Sensor), Main Heat Exchanger
Full guide for 25
04
0 8 High Engineer

Your boiler is failing to start because it cannot confirm that the internal fan is effectively clearing exhaust gases, which prevents it from igniting safely.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal drainage system becomes backed up with liquid that can no longer escape. The most common reason is a blockage in the external pipe, often caused by a buildup of sludge or debris within the condensate trap itself. When the water level rises too high inside the unit, a safety sensor shuts the system down to prevent internal leaking or damage.

Est. cost
£150-300
Parts
Air pressure switch, Fan assembly, Venturi
Full guide for 0 8
05
30 High Engineer

Your boiler detects a flame when it shouldn't, which is causing it to shut down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal sensor incorrectly detects a flame after the burner has been told to switch off. This is most commonly caused by a carbon-coated or damaged sensing probe sending a false electrical signal, or a moisture-damaged control board misreading the system's status.

Est. cost
£120-300
Parts
Ionisation electrode, Ignition lead, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for 30
06
06 High Engineer

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer control the heating and hot water functions safely.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's main control board experiences a hardware failure or a memory error, meaning it can no longer process data correctly. The most common reason is natural wear and tear of the electronic components, though electrical surges or moisture getting onto the board can also trigger this complete failure.

Est. cost
£250-£450
Parts
Automatic Control Module (PCB), Wiring harness
Full guide for 06

on the Glow-worm EnergySaver Combi

Filling loopExpansion vesselPressure relief valveInternal Glass FusePrinted Circuit Board (PCB)External Fused Spur

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Glow-worm shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 24-code list for the Glow-worm EnergySaver Combi