Grant Vortex Fault codes & diagnostics

23 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Oil Oil 12-70 kW 2002-present

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2 Emergency 19 High 2 Low

All 23 documented codes

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10

Your boiler is struggling to vent exhaust gases properly when it starts up, which could lead to fumes building up in your home.

Emergency Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue terminal
  • Burner seal
  • Draft stabilizer

Related codes

12

Your boiler is allowing exhaust fumes to escape into your home, which is a serious safety concern that must be addressed immediately.

Emergency Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner gasket
  • Flue seal
  • Cleaning cover seal
C2849

Your boiler has stopped working because of a communication failure between its internal electronic brains and a fault in the ignition system.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Loom
  • BBV Sensor
  • Ignition Electrodes
E01

Your boiler's main internal computer has encountered a processing error and cannot safely operate.

High DIY-safe £250-450

What to check first

  1. Press the reset button on the control panel once
  2. Turn the main power switch to the boiler off, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on
  3. Ensure the boiler has not been subject to a recent power surge or lightning strike

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Interface
EE1

Your boiler has sensed a blockage or a pump failure that is stopping water from moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open
  2. Bleed your radiators to remove trapped air
  3. Ensure the system pressure gauge is within the correct range (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

EE2

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the central heating system is too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose beneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small valves at either end of the hose until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

EE3

Your boiler has stopped working because it has lost the electrical connection to its temperature sensor.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

EE4

Your boiler has detected that the electrical wiring coming into the unit is connected the wrong way round.

High Engineer only £80-140

Parts commonly replaced

  • Electrical wiring (correction)
  • Fused spur unit

Related codes

EE8

Your boiler's main control board has lost contact with the digital display or internal computer, meaning it can no longer send or receive instructions.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control PCB
  • Display Interface
  • Wiring Harness
Lock-out

Your boiler has stopped working to protect itself and needs to be restarted, though it may take a few attempts to get it running again.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check your external oil supply tank to ensure you have enough fuel and that any isolation valves are open.
  2. Locate the reset button on the boiler casing (or the burner unit) and press it once firmly.
  3. Wait for the boiler to attempt an ignition cycle; if it fails again, do not force the reset more than three times.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Fuel pump
  • Control box
Showing 11–20 of 23
Lock-out (Red neon)

Your boiler has stopped working because the flame inside failed to light or stay on.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Oil nozzle
  • Control box
OPn

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor cable has disconnected or become faulty, preventing the system from monitoring water flow correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Return Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Loom
OUTDR

Your boiler has lost connection with its outside temperature sensor, which means the heating might not adjust correctly to the weather.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring
PP1

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Inlet (Return) NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

PP2

Your boiler has detected a problem with a sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, and it has likely stopped working as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Discharge gas sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

PP3

Your boiler has stopped working because an internal sensor that monitors the temperature of the heating coil is no longer sending a correct reading.

High Engineer only £110-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Coil temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

PP4

Your boiler has stopped working because one of its internal sensors is failing to monitor the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return gas NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

PP5

Your boiler's internal thermometer that measures the air around it has stopped working properly, preventing the system from operating safely.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ambient temperature sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

PP6

Your boiler has shut itself down because the internal gases have reached an unsafely high temperature to protect the system from damage.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat exchanger NTC sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

PP7

Your boiler has detected very cold temperatures and is automatically running to prevent the internal pipes from freezing.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a normal safety function.
  2. Ensure the condensate pipe outside is not frozen or blocked.
  3. Check that your oil supply is sufficient to allow the boiler to run its cycle.

Related codes

Showing 21–23 of 23
sHr

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with its internal temperature sensors and has stopped running as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

SUP

Your boiler's temperature sensor has stopped sending the correct signals, meaning the system doesn't know how hot the water is and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
U2453

The boiler's internal computer has encountered a communication error between its memory and control systems, which prevents it from running correctly.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Module Unit