Heatline Capriz 28 Fault codes & diagnostics

20 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 28 kW 2010-2015 Discontinued

Replaced by: Capriz2

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
16 High 1 Medium 3 Low

All 20 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Flashing 30

Your boiler has lost the ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water being sent to your radiators, so it has purposefully shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC sensor
Flashing 40

Your boiler is struggling to detect the outside temperature, so it is defaulting to a basic setting to keep your home warm.

Low Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor temperature sensor
  • Wiring loom
Flashing 50

Your boiler is failing to detect the airflow required for safe combustion, which is preventing it from starting up properly.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Flue fan
  • Venture pipe

Related codes

Flashing 60

Your boiler has failed to light the flame properly and has safely shut itself down to prevent a build-up of gas.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed circuit board

Related codes

Flashing 70

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of your hot water, which may cause your taps to run cold or prevent the hot water from switching on reliably.

Medium Engineer only £120-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Thermistor
Flashing 80

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under the boiler connecting two pipes.
  2. Open the attached valves slowly to allow mains water into the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both valves tightly and ensure no water is leaking from the connection points.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Central Heating NTC fault

Your boiler is struggling to accurately read its own temperature, so it has shut down your heating to prevent any potential overheating.

High Engineer only £120-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Sensor (Temperature Thermistor)
DHW sensor fault

Your boiler has detected a faulty sensor responsible for hot water temperature, so it is now running in a restricted 'backup' mode to ensure you still have hot water available.

Low Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC thermistor
F0

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-£120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose, usually underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the small valve or tap on the filling loop to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (usually between 1 and 1.5 bar) and then tightly close the valve.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 20
F1

Your boiler is trying to start up but cannot light the gas flame needed to produce heat.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition lead
  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

F2

Your boiler has lost the ability to accurately measure the water temperature, so it has safely shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (CH) NTC Sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F3

Your boiler is struggling to accurately detect the temperature of your hot water, which means it will likely stop producing hot water until the faulty sensor is replaced.

High Engineer only £120-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC thermistor

Related codes

F4

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage or fire hazards.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Limit thermostat
  • Overheat sensor
  • Main printed circuit board (PCB)

Related codes

F5

Your boiler is struggling to clear exhaust gases safely, so it has shut down to prevent any risk of fumes entering your home.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Flue fan
  • Venturi
  • Condensate trap

Related codes

F6

Your boiler is struggling to read the outdoor temperature correctly, which may cause your heating to run less efficiently or not start at all.

Low Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • External NTC Sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Lock-out

Your boiler has stopped working as a safety precaution because it either failed to light or became too hot.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Low water pressure

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water level inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a silver braided hose under the boiler.
  2. Open the small valve or tap attached to the loop slowly, allowing water to enter the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Stop filling once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then ensure the valve is fully closed.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Overheat

Your boiler has detected that it is getting dangerously hot and has automatically shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Pump
  • Diverter valve
  • Primary heat exchanger

Related codes

Significant loss in pressure

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water inside the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose under your boiler.
  2. Open the valves at both ends of the hose to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  4. Close both valves tightly and remove the filling loop if it is not a permanent fixture.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Pressure Sensor/Transducer
  • Expansion Vessel

Related codes