Common problems guide

The most common Heatline Capriz 28 problems

The faults most likely to send a Heatline Capriz 28 into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
20 documented codes
6 most common
4 DIY-safe checks
2 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
F0 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose, usually underneath the boiler.Open the small valve or tap on the filling loop to allow water into the system.Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (usually between 1 and 1.5 bar) and then tightly close the valve.

Est. cost
£0-£120
Parts
Pressure relief valve, Pressure sensor, Expansion vessel
Full guide for F0
02
Flashing 80 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

What to try first

Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under the boiler connecting two pipes.Open the attached valves slowly to allow mains water into the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Close both valves tightly and ensure no water is leaking from the connection points.

Est. cost
£80-120
Parts
Filling loop, Pressure relief valve, Expansion vessel
Full guide for Flashing 80
03
Low water pressure High DIY-safe

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water level inside the heating system has dropped too low to operate safely.

What to try first

Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a silver braided hose under the boiler.Open the small valve or tap attached to the loop slowly, allowing water to enter the system while watching the pressure gauge.Stop filling once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then ensure the valve is fully closed.

Est. cost
£80-150
Parts
Pressure relief valve, Pressure sensor, Expansion vessel
Full guide for Low water pressure
04
Significant loss in pressure High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water inside the system to operate safely.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose under your boiler.Open the valves at both ends of the hose to allow water into the system.Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).Close both valves tightly and remove the filling loop if it is not a permanent fixture.

Est. cost
£80-150
Parts
Pressure Relief Valve, Pressure Sensor/Transducer, Expansion Vessel
Full guide for Significant loss in pressure
05
F1 High Engineer

Your boiler is trying to start up but cannot light the gas flame needed to produce heat.

Est. cost
£120-250
Parts
Ignition lead, Ignition electrode, Gas valve
Full guide for F1
06
F2 High Engineer

Your boiler has lost the ability to accurately measure the water temperature, so it has safely shut down to prevent overheating.

Est. cost
£120-180
Parts
Central Heating (CH) NTC Sensor, Wiring harness
Full guide for F2

on the Heatline Capriz 28

Pressure relief valvePressure sensorExpansion vesselFilling loopPressure Relief ValvePressure Sensor/Transducer

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Heatline shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 20-code list for the Heatline Capriz 28