Ideal Mexico Fault codes & diagnostics

33 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Regular Natural Gas 6-41 kW 1970-2016 Discontinued

Replaced by: Logic Heat

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Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
29 High 2 Medium 2 Low

All 33 documented codes

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C0

Your boiler has lost its identity because the small memory chip inside has either moved or failed, meaning the system can't start up.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Boiler Chip Card (BCC)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C2

Your boiler has lost communication with its internal digital identity chip, meaning it cannot confirm its own model and safety settings to operate correctly.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Boiler Chip Card (BCC)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F1

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system is too low to operate safely and effectively.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small tap(s) on the filling loop to let water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and turn the tap(s) off once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

F2

Your boiler has started to light but the flame has unexpectedly gone out, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Check that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has sufficient credit
  3. Ensure the condensate pipe (the plastic pipe leading outside) isn't frozen if it is very cold weather
  4. Press the reset button once to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F2, FN or LN

Your boiler is failing to stay lit or cannot detect a flame, which means your heating and hot water have stopped working for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.
  2. Ensure your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has sufficient credit.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front control panel and hold for two seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F3

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fan that safely pushes waste gases out of the flue, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

F4

Your boiler has lost its ability to measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, meaning it cannot operate safely and has shut itself down.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Wiring harness / connector
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F5

Your boiler's internal sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit has developed a fault, preventing the system from operating correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

F6

Your boiler has lost connection with its outdoor thermometer, meaning it cannot automatically adjust its temperature based on the weather outside.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

F7

Your boiler has detected that the electricity supply coming into your home is too low for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-150

What to check first

  1. Check if other electrical appliances in your home are behaving strangely or flickering
  2. Verify if there is a known power cut or grid issue in your local area
  3. Contact your electricity network provider (DNO) to report a potential supply fault

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Voltage Stabiliser

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 33
F9

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been set up correctly to tell it which model it is, so it doesn't know how to operate.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Configuration Chip

Related codes

F9, L9, F8 or L8

Your boiler's internal computer has lost its settings or developed a technical fault, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Configuration Chip

Related codes

FA

Your boiler has detected that the pipes carrying water in and out of the unit have been installed or connected the wrong way around.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow and return pipework
  • External pump (if incorrectly oriented)

Related codes

FD

Your boiler is unable to move water around the system, which is preventing it from heating your home safely.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  2. Check your central heating pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Pump head
  • Water pressure switch

Related codes

Flow return reversed

Your boiler has detected that the water temperature is rising in a way that suggests the heating pipes might be mixed up or a sensor is dislodged.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor
  • NTC sensor clip

Related codes

Flow/Return reversed

Your boiler has sensed that the internal water temperature readings are backwards, which usually means a sensor has come loose or is failing.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor
  • Return thermistor
  • Thermistor clip

Related codes

FU

Your boiler has detected that the water is getting too hot too quickly, likely because it cannot flow through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are turned on and open.
  2. Ensure the large lever valves underneath or near the boiler are in the 'open' position (parallel to the pipe).
  3. Check that your pump is running if it is external to the boiler.
  4. Reset the boiler using the reset button once you have checked the valves.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow and Return Thermistors
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

Ignition lockout

Your boiler has stopped trying to light after several failed attempts, which means it has safely shut itself down for your protection.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds to attempt a restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Spark Leads

Related codes

L1

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot or that water is not moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Press the reset button once the boiler has had time to cool down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

L2

Your boiler has failed to light because it cannot detect a flame, causing the system to lock itself for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active (e.g., check other gas appliances or prepay meter credit)
  2. If it is winter, check that your external condensate pipe hasn't frozen
  3. Press the Reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 33
L4 or F4

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly or a temperature sensor has stopped working, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor
  • Return thermistor
  • Connecting lead

Related codes

L5

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short period and has temporarily locked itself out for safety.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the power to the boiler off at the fused spur switch
  2. Wait for at least 15 minutes without touching any buttons
  3. Turn the power back on and see if the code has cleared

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required for L5
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

L5 or F5

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

L6

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame even though the burner hasn't been turned on, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas valve

Related codes

LC

Your boiler has experienced a temporary communication error or power fluctuation and simply needs to be restarted.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the power switch for the boiler (usually a fused spur switch nearby).
  2. Turn the power switch to the 'Off' position.
  3. Wait 30 seconds, then turn the power switch back to the 'On' position to reset the system.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually resolved by external reset)
  • PCB (only if fault persists after reset)

Related codes

Low mains voltage

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power to operate correctly, which is likely caused by an external supply issue or a faulty internal component.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Low water pressure

Your system does not have enough water in it to operate properly, causing the boiler to shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the silver flexible filling loop underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Open both small valves slowly until you hear water flowing into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

Overheat lockout

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  2. Check the pressure gauge and refill the system to 1.0 bar if it is too low
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and boiler service valves are fully open
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Pump rotor blocked

Your boiler's internal pump has stopped spinning, which means hot water cannot be moved around your radiators or taps.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Pump Nut/Valves

Related codes

Thermal fuse lockout

Your boiler has shut down because a temperature safety limit was reached and it now needs to be manually cleared to restart.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button or dial on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for several seconds (or turn the dial to 'Reset' then back to 'On')
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its start-up sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required for a one-off reset
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Showing 31–33 of 33
Too many resets

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short window and has temporarily locked itself out as a safety precaution.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the boiler power off at the fused spur switch
  2. Wait for at least 15 to 30 minutes to allow the internal timer to clear
  3. Turn the power back on and see if the boiler identifies a specific underlying fault code

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Ignition Electrode
  • PCB

Related codes

Too many restarts

Your boiler is repeatedly struggling to stay alight and has automatically shut down for safety after trying to start five times in a short period.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Turn the electrical power switch to the boiler off
  2. Wait for 30 seconds
  3. Turn the power back on to reset the control system

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

Water pressure

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the pipes has become too low for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a silver flexible hose with one or two black lever valves.
  2. Open the valves slowly until you hear water moving and watch the pressure gauge needle reach 1.0 to 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both valves tightly and restart the boiler to clear the fault.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes