Common problems guide

The most common Ideal Response problems

The faults most likely to send a Ideal Response into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
13 documented codes
6 most common
3 DIY-safe checks
3 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
lockout LED 2 ON High DIY-safe

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot detect a flame, causing the system to shut down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs because the boiler's control system cannot confirm that a flame has successfully lit after several attempts. It is usually caused by a lack of gas reaching the burner, a worn-out ignition spark electrode, or a dirty sensor that can no longer 'see' the flame even if it is there. The boiler shuts down as a safety precaution to prevents unburnt gas from building up inside the unit.

What to try first

Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' positionIf you have a pre-payment meter, ensure you have credit availableCheck if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctlyPress the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Est. cost
£120-£350
Parts
Ignition PCB, Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve
Full guide for lockout LED 2 ON
02
Mains On neon NOT lit High DIY-safe

Your boiler has no power and is completely unresponsive, likely due to an electrical supply issue or a blown fuse.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when electrical power fails to reach the boiler's internal controls, leaving the unit completely lifeless. The most common reason is a blown fuse in the external wall switch or a surge that has tripped the boiler's internal protection, often caused by a failing component like the pump or fan. In some cases, the interference filter has failed, preventing electricity from flowing through the circuit safely.

What to try first

Check if your home's main electrical consumer unit has a tripped circuit breakerEnsure the boiler's external isolation switch (fused spur) is turned onReplace the 3-amp fuse in the external isolation switch with a new one

Est. cost
£70-160
Parts
External 3A Fuse, EMC Filter, Internal PCB Fuse
Full guide for Mains On neon NOT lit
03
Low system pressure High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water level inside the system has dropped too low and needs topping up.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal water pressure drops below the minimum level required for the boiler to operate safely. The most common reason is a slow leak from a radiator valve or a pipe joint, but it can also happen if you have recently bled your radiators and didn't top up the system afterwards. In some cases, a component inside the boiler like the pressure relief valve may be letting water out of the system gradually.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.Slowly open the one or two small tap handles until you hear water running.Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps firmly once it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop valve, Pressure relief valve, Expansion vessel
Full guide for Low system pressure
04
CH light on PCB 40 flashing High Engineer

Your boiler has detected a communication problem or a fault with the sensor that controls your central heating temperature.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's main computer loses touch with the sensor that monitors your heating water temperature. It usually happens because the sensor has failed internally or the electrical wires connecting it to the control board have become loose or damaged. Without this vital temperature data, the boiler shuts down as a safety precaution to prevent overheating.

Est. cost
£90-180
Parts
Central Heating (CH) thermistor/sensor, Wiring harness, Main PCB
Full guide for CH light on PCB 40 flashing
05
HW light on PCB 40 flashing High Engineer

Your boiler has detected a fault with the temperature sensor that controls your hot water, meaning it cannot accurately measure how hot the water is.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal computer receives an incorrect electrical signal from the hot water temperature sensor. It usually means the sensor has developed a short circuit or the wiring connecting it to the main control board has become damaged or loose. Because the boiler no longer knows how hot the water is, it shuts down as a safety precaution to prevent overheating.

Est. cost
£90-160
Parts
Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Thermistor, Wiring harness
Full guide for HW light on PCB 40 flashing
06
Overheat 'stat tripped High Engineer

Your boiler has shut down because it detected that the water inside has become too hot, causing a safety switch to trigger.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water within the heat exchanger reaches a dangerously high temperature, triggering a safety sensor to cut off the gas for your protection. The most common reasons for this are a lack of water circulation caused by a failing pump, a blockage in the pipework, or a sensor that has become faulty and is giving a false reading.

Est. cost
£90-180
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Central Heating Thermistor, Water Pressure Switch
Full guide for Overheat 'stat tripped

on the Ideal Response

Ignition PCBIgnition ElectrodeGas ValveFlame Sensing ProbeExternal 3A FuseEMC Filter

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Ideal shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 13-code list for the Ideal Response