Ideal Sprint Fault codes & diagnostics

33 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24 kW 1997-2005 Discontinued

Replaced by: Icos

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30 High 1 Medium 2 Low

All 33 documented codes

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C0

Your boiler's internal memory card has failed to communicate, meaning the control system no longer recognizes which model it is supposed to be operating.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Boiler Chip Card (BCC)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C2

Your boiler's internal memory chip has developed a communication error or has failed, meaning the main control board cannot identify which model it is operating.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Boiler Chip Card (BCC)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F1

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, which is usually a simple matter of the system needing a top-up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose with small lever valves under the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both lever valves until you hear water flowing and watch the pressure gauge.
  3. Close both valves tightly once the pressure gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

F2

Your boiler has failed to stay lit, which means it has stopped providing heating and hot water for safety reasons.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to confirm your gas supply is active.
  2. If it is freezing outside, check if your condensate pipe (the plastic pipe leading outside) is frozen and thaw it with warm water.
  3. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel for two seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F2, FN or LN

Your boiler has started to light but the flame has gone out, meaning the system has shut down for safety and cannot provide heat or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances (like a hob) are working to ensure gas is reaching your home.
  2. If it is winter, check that your external condensate pipe is not frozen.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to attempt a restart.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F3

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fan that safely pushes waste gases out of your home, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F4

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F5

Your boiler has lost its ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F6

Your boiler has lost connection with its outdoor thermometer, meaning it cannot automatically adjust your heating based on the weather outside.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring

Related codes

F7

Your boiler has stopped working because the electrical supply from the power grid is currently too weak to power the appliance safely.

High Engineer only £0-120

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Voltage regulator

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 33
F9

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been set up correctly to tell the unit how to operate, so it has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Software Programming Chip

Related codes

F9, L9, F8 or L8

Your boiler's internal computer has either lost its memory or developed a technical fault, preventing the unit from starting up.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Plug

Related codes

FA

Your boiler has detected that the water is flowing in the wrong direction through the pipes, or there is an issue with the temperature sensors.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor
  • Return thermistor
  • Pump
  • Main PCB

Related codes

FD

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system correctly, which is often caused by a lack of water pressure or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. If pressure is low, use the filling loop underneath to top the water up
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open and that the pump is not making a loud or grinding noise
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is corrected

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Thermistor
  • Primary Heat Exchanger

Related codes

Flow return reversed

Your boiler has detected that the temperature sensors on the main pipes are showing unusual readings, often because the water flow is not moving in the direction the system expects.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor
  • Return thermistor
  • Clip-on temperature sensor

Related codes

Flow/Return reversed

Your boiler has detected that the water temperature readings are backwards, which usually means a sensor has come loose or is faulty.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Return thermistor
  • Thermistor clip

Related codes

FU

Your boiler has detected that water is getting too hot too quickly, which usually means the water isn't flowing through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that the flow and return isolation valves underneath the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to their highest setting
  3. Check the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  4. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Ignition lockout

Your boiler has stopped working because it failed to light the flame after several attempts, typically due to a temporary interruption in the gas supply.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that other gas appliances, such as a gas hob, are working correctly to confirm gas supply.
  2. Ensure your gas meter has credit if you are on a prepay system.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to restart the ignition sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Spark Lead
  • PCB

Related codes

L1

Your boiler has shut down because it has become too hot or water is not circulating through the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Thermistor (Temperature Sensor)
  • Heat Exchanger

Related codes

L2

Your boiler has tried to light several times but failed, so it has shut itself down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas pre-pay meter has credit (if applicable)
  2. Check that other gas appliances like your hob are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  3. Press the Reset button or turn the control knob to 'Reset' then back to 'On/Service'

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 33
L4 or F4

Your boiler has detected that water is getting too hot too quickly or a temperature sensor has failed, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Return Thermistor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

L5

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short window, causing the system to lock itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the power to the boiler off at the fused spur switch.
  2. Wait at least five minutes to allow the internal timer to clear.
  3. Turn the power back on and wait for the boiler to restart.
  4. If the boiler locks out again, do not reset it; call a Gas Safe engineer to find the underlying fault.

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required for L5 itself
  • Ignition Electrode (if original fault persists)
  • PCB (if timer fails to clear)

Related codes

L5 or F5

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

L6

Your boiler thinks a flame is present when it shouldn't be, causing the system to shut down safely to prevent a gas hazard.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

LC

Your boiler has experienced a temporary electronic glitch and simply needs to be restarted to clear its memory.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the power switch or fused spur for the boiler.
  2. Turn the power off completely.
  3. Wait for 30 seconds, then turn the power back on to see if the code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset)
  • Printed Circuit Board (if fault persists)

Related codes

Low mains voltage

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power to operate properly and has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • PCB

Related codes

Low water pressure

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water in the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps/levers on the hose until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Ensure both taps are fully closed and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Overheat lockout

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and refill to 1.0 bar if it is low
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Pump rotor blocked

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal pump that moves water around your pipes is stuck or jammed.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Internal pump valves
  • Pump head

Related codes

Thermal fuse lockout

Your boiler has switched itself off because it got too hot and needs to be safely cooled down and restarted.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for several seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required for a one-off reset
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Showing 31–33 of 33
Too many resets

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short window and has temporarily locked itself out as a safety precaution.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the power to the boiler off at the fused spur switch.
  2. Wait for at least 15 to 30 minutes to allow the internal timer to clear.
  3. Turn the power back on and see if the boiler resumes normal operation without further resets.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software lockout)
  • Printed Circuit Board (if fault persists)

Related codes

Too many restarts

Your boiler is trying to fire up too many times in a short window because it keeps failing to stay alight.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Locate the power switch or fused spur for the boiler.
  2. Turn the power off for 30 seconds.
  3. Turn the power back on to reset the control sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Spark generator
  • Gas valve

Related codes

Water pressure

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system is too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Switch off the boiler and allow the system to cool down completely.
  2. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath the boiler.
  3. Open the small valve handles slowly until you hear water flowing and the gauge reaches 1.0 - 1.5 bar.
  4. Close the valves tightly and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes