Common problems guide

The most common Intergas Combi Compact HRE 28/24 problems

The faults most likely to send a Intergas Combi Compact HRE 28/24 into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
23 documented codes
6 most common
3 DIY-safe checks
3 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
E01 High DIY-safe

Your boiler is trying to light but cannot spark or maintain a flame, meaning you have no heating or hot water.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal computer tries to start the burner multiple times but cannot detect a successful flame. The most common reason is a problem with the gas supply or a worn-out ignition spark, but it can also be triggered by a build-up of debris on the internal sensors that monitor the fire.

What to try first

Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position.Verify if other gas appliances, such as a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.If you have a pre-payment meter, ensure you have sufficient credit.Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel for 2 seconds.

Est. cost
£120-300
Parts
Ignition electrode, Ionisation probe, Gas valve
Full guide for E01
02
E02 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has shut down because the water inside it has become too hot, causing it to overheat for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when water cannot circulate through the boiler quickly enough to carry heat away, causing the internal temperature to reach a dangerous level. The most common reasons are a failed pump that isn't pushing water around, a blockage in the pipework, or air trapped within the heat exchanger. It acts as a safety 'trip' to prevent the appliance from being damaged by extreme heat.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.Ensure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.Press the 'reset' button on the boiler control panel once the unit has cooled down.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Circulation Pump, Overheat Thermostat (Limit Switch), NTC Temperature Sensor
Full guide for E02
03
E04 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to run safely, or there is a blockage preventing water from circulating.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler detects that there isn't enough water pressure in the system to operate safely, or the water isn't moving through the unit correctly. The most common reason is a gradual loss of pressure through small leaks or after bleeding your radiators, but it can also be triggered by a faulty pump that isn't pushing water around the circuit.

What to try first

Check the pressure gauge on your boiler or under the sink; it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Locate the filling loop (a flexible silver hose) and slowly open the valves until the pressure reaches 1.2 bar.Ensure all radiator valves are open and your external pump (if applicable) is running.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop, Pressure sensor, Circulating pump
Full guide for E04
04
24 High Engineer

Your boiler has sensed that the water returning from your radiators is hotter than the water leaving the boiler, which usually means there is a circulation problem or a sensor fault.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal sensors detect that the system is operating in reverse, with the return pipe being hotter than the flow pipe. The most common reason is a circulation failure, often caused by a faulty pump or a blockage in the heat exchanger that prevents water from moving through the boiler correctly. It can also be triggered if one of the temperature sensors has failed and is providing an incorrect reading to the control board.

Est. cost
£90-220
Parts
Flow NTC sensor, Return NTC sensor, Circulation pump
Full guide for 24
05
29 High Engineer

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fan, which means it cannot safely move air and gas through the system to start the heating process.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's control system loses communication with the fan or detects that it isn't spinning at the required speed. The most common reasons are a mechanical failure of the fan motor itself, loose internal wiring, or a fault on the main circuit board failing to send power to the unit.

Est. cost
£250-£450
Parts
Fan unit, Fan wiring harness, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for 29
06
30 High Engineer

Your boiler has sensed that the water returning to it is significantly hotter than the water going out, which usually means there is a blockage or a sensor error causing the system to stop for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler detects that the water coming back from your radiators is much hotter than the water it just sent out, which shouldn't happen during normal operation. The most common reason is a lack of water flow caused by a blockage, trapped air, or a failing pump, but it can also be triggered if the electronic sensors that measure temperature become faulty and provide 'garbage' readings to the control board.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Flow/Return Temperature Sensors (NTC), Circulation Pump, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for 30

on the Intergas Combi Compact HRE 28/24

Ignition electrodeIonisation probeGas valvePrinted Circuit Board (PCB)Circulation PumpOverheat Thermostat (Limit Switch)

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Intergas shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 23-code list for the Intergas Combi Compact HRE 28/24