The 6 most common faults
Your boiler has temporarily stopped working because the internal water pressure has dropped too low to operate safely.
Locate the filling loop (two valves and a silver braided hose) underneath your boiler.Open both valves slowly to let mains water into the system, and watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.Stop filling when the needle reaches the green zone (usually between 1.0 and 1.5 bar) and firmly close both valves.
Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system effectively, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.
Check that your radiator valves are fully openEnsure your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gaugeGently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
Your boiler has failed to ignite or lost its flame, meaning it has temporarily stopped working to keep you safe.
Full guide for E133Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit has developed a fault.
Full guide for E20Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing it to stop running for safety.
Full guide for E28Your boiler has sensed that the exhaust gases are getting too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.
Full guide for E130on the Potterton Gold Combi
Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.
Call a Gas Safe engineer if…
- You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
- The Potterton shows an Emergency or High severity code
- The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
- You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
- There's visible water leaking from the boiler
- The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
Avoid the next call-out bill
Monthly cover means no unexpected bills when your boiler breaks down.
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