Common problems guide

The most common Potterton Promax 15 & 24 problems

The faults most likely to send a Potterton Promax 15 & 24 into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
7 documented codes
6 most common
2 DIY-safe checks
4 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
SWITCHED LIVE High DIY-safe

Your boiler is not receiving the electrical signal from your thermostat or timer telling it to turn on.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler is powered on but isn't receiving the necessary electrical 'command' from your external controls to start heating. The most common reason is a failure in the communication line between your room thermostat, programmer, or motorized valves and the boiler itself. Essentially, the boiler is waiting for a green light to fire up that never arrives because of a fault in those external components.

What to try first

Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.Ensure your programmer or heating timer is set to 'ON' or 'AUTO'.Replace the batteries in your wireless thermostat if the screen is blank or showing a low battery symbol.

Est. cost
£80-250
Parts
Room thermostat, Heating programmer, Motorised zone valve
Full guide for SWITCHED LIVE
02
No Switched Live High DIY-safe

Your boiler is not receiving the electrical signal from your thermostat or programmer telling it to turn on.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler is receiving main power but isn't getting the specific 230V command to actually start heating. The most common reason is a failure in an external component like a broken room thermostat, a blown fuse in the wiring center, or a motorized valve that is stuck and failing to trigger the microswitch. Essentially, the boiler is 'waiting' for a signal that never arrives because of a break in the electrical chain outside the unit itself.

What to try first

Ensure your wall thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperatureCheck that your programmer or heating timer is set to 'ON' or 'AUTO'Check your home's consumer unit (fuse box) to see if any switches have trippedReplace the batteries in your room thermostat if it has a digital display

Est. cost
£80-200
Parts
Room thermostat, External programmer, Wiring centre fuse
Full guide for No Switched Live
03
PUMP FEED High Engineer

Your boiler is unable to send power to the water pump, which means it cannot circulate heat around your home and has shut down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's computer sends a signal to start the pump, but detects that no electricity is actually reaching it. The most common reason is a malfunctioning main control board that can no longer switch power on, though it can also be caused by loose internal wiring or a pump that has short-circuited.

Est. cost
£180-£450
Parts
Main Control Board (PCB), Circulation Pump, Wiring Harness
Full guide for PUMP FEED
04
Ignition Lockout High Engineer

Your boiler has failed to start because it cannot successfully light or maintain a flame, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent gas buildup.

Est. cost
£120-250
Parts
Ignition electrode, Gas valve, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for Ignition Lockout
05
Dry-fire Lockout High Engineer

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect enough water inside to safely heat your home.

Est. cost
£120-250
Parts
Central heating pump, Flow switch, System pressure sensor
Full guide for Dry-fire Lockout
06
No Pump Feed High Engineer

Your boiler has detected a safety issue preventing it from circulating heart or hot water, and it has shut down to protect itself.

Est. cost
£150-300
Parts
Safety thermostat, Fan thermostat, Flow thermistor
Full guide for No Pump Feed

on the Potterton Promax 15 & 24

Room thermostatHeating programmerMotorised zone valveExternal programmerWiring centre fuseMain Control Board (PCB)

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Potterton shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 7-code list for the Potterton Promax 15 & 24