Potterton Promax Combi ErP Fault codes & diagnostics

10 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 2008 onwards Discontinued
GC Numbers 47-393-4747-393-4847-393-49
Download the Potterton Promax Combi ErP manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
9 High 1 Medium

Which version do you have?

The GC number on your boiler's data badge identifies the exact appliance and production years, as recorded in the UK Product Characteristics Database.

GC number Appliance (register name) Produced
47-393-47 Promax 24 Combi ErP 2008–present
47-393-48 Promax 28 Combi ErP 2008–present
47-393-49 Promax 33 Combi ErP 2008–present

All 10 documented codes

Tap any card for details

E20

Your boiler has lost its ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water being heated for your radiators, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor (Negative Temperature Coefficient thermistor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring harness connection

Related codes

E50

Your boiler is struggling to provide hot water because its internal temperature sensor has stopped working correctly.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Thermistor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down for safety, preventing internal damage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Switch off the boiler and wait at least 30 minutes for it to cool down completely.
  2. Check that your radiator valves are open and your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Turn the selector knob to the 'Reset' position for five seconds, then turn it back to your desired setting.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small valves) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open one or both valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E125

Your boiler has detected that hot water is not moving around the system correctly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  3. If you have recently bled your radiators, top up the water pressure using the filling loop.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has switched itself off because it detected that the exhaust gases have become too hot, which is a safety feature to protect the internal parts.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger (cleaning/descaling)
  • Heat Exchanger Return Pipework

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has failed to light, likely because gas isn't reaching the burner or the spark isn't igniting the flame.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit (if on a prepayment meter)
  2. Check that other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds
  4. Check if the condensate pipe (the white plastic pipe outside) is frozen

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E160

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that clears exhaust gases is not spinning at the correct speed.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E193

The water isn't moving through your boiler properly or is heating up too quickly, causing the system to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar)
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled up)
  • Flow/Return Thermistors

Related codes