Common problems guide

The most common Potterton Promax Combi ErP problems

The faults most likely to send a Potterton Promax Combi ErP into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
10 documented codes
6 most common
5 DIY-safe checks
1 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
E110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down for safety, preventing internal damage.

What to try first

Switch off the boiler and wait at least 30 minutes for it to cool down completely.Check that your radiator valves are open and your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.Turn the selector knob to the 'Reset' position for five seconds, then turn it back to your desired setting.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump, Heat Exchanger
Full guide for E110
02
E119 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small valves) underneath or near the boiler.Slowly open one or both valves until you hear water entering the system.Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop, Pressure sensor, Expansion vessel
Full guide for E119
03
E125 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that hot water is not moving around the system correctly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

What to try first

Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.If you have recently bled your radiators, top up the water pressure using the filling loop.

Est. cost
£180-450
Parts
Circulation Pump, Flow Temperature Sensor, Main Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)
Full guide for E125
04
E133 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has failed to light, likely because gas isn't reaching the burner or the spark isn't igniting the flame.

What to try first

Check if your gas meter has credit (if on a prepayment meter)Check that other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working correctlyPress and hold the Reset button for five secondsCheck if the condensate pipe (the white plastic pipe outside) is frozen

Est. cost
£100-£350
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for E133
05
E193 High DIY-safe

The water isn't moving through your boiler properly or is heating up too quickly, causing the system to shut down to prevent overheating.

What to try first

Check that your radiator valves are fully openEnsure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar)Try bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air

Est. cost
£180-350
Parts
Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled up), Flow/Return Thermistors
Full guide for E193
06
E20 High Engineer

Your boiler has lost its ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water being heated for your radiators, causing the system to shut down for safety.

Est. cost
£90-160
Parts
NTC Temperature Sensor (Negative Temperature Coefficient thermistor), Connecting wiring harness
Full guide for E20

on the Potterton Promax Combi ErP

Overheat ThermostatCirculation PumpHeat ExchangerFilling loopPressure sensorExpansion vessel

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Potterton shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 10-code list for the Potterton Promax Combi ErP