Remeha Gas 610 Eco Pro Fault codes & diagnostics

33 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Natural Gas 80-290 kW Discontinued

Replaced by: Gas 610 Eco Pro (Condensing Range)

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32 High 1 Low

All 33 documented codes

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00.

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame when it shouldn't, which is a safety check that prevents the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Ignition electrode
  • Control PCB
01.

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault within its internal wiring which has caused the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low voltage wiring loom
  • Internal fuse
  • Control board (PCB)
02.

Your boiler is failing to light properly or cannot detect that a flame has started, resulting in a safety shutdown to prevent unburnt gas from building up.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Ionisation probe
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition transformer
04

Your boiler has encountered a technical communication error between its internal controls, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Electronic Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
08.

Your boiler is struggling to breathe properly because air isn't moving through the system as it should.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan assembly
  • Flue seals
  • Heat exchanger cleaning kit
12.

Your boiler has lost power to its main control system because an internal safety fuse has blown.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3.15 AT Fuse
  • Electronic Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom
18.

Your boiler has shut down because the water inside has become or is being detected as dangerously hot.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the external system pump is running if visible
  3. Press the reset button once the boiler has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Heat Exchanger
19.

Your boiler has shut down because the water returning from your heating system is too hot, which prevents the unit from cooling itself down properly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that at least two or three radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate.
  2. Ensure your external pump (if visible) is running and hasn't seized.
  3. Check if any bypass valves in your pipework have been accidentally closed.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Circulation Pump
  • Return Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • System Bypass Valve
24.

Your boiler has stopped working because it thinks the internal water temperature readings are the wrong way around or flowing incorrectly.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Return Temperature Sensor
  • Circulation Pump
25.

Your boiler has shut down because the water inside it is heating up too quickly, which usually means the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the water pressure gauge is at least 0.8 bar and top up if necessary using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Temperature sensors (NTC thermistors)
  • Flow pipework (clearing blockages)
Showing 11–20 of 33
28.

Your boiler's fan is not spinning correctly, which means the system cannot safely vent exhaust gases and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Control PCB fuse (3.15 AT)
  • Transformer
  • Wiring harness
29.

Your boiler's fan is spinning continuously and cannot stop itself, which prevents the heating system from starting its normal cycle.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • PCB (Main Control Board)
  • Wiring harness
30.

Your boiler has shut down because the water is heating up too quickly or isn't circulating properly through the system.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the external system pump is running and hasn't seized
  3. Check that the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. Bleed any air from the radiators and the pump

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Circulation Pump
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensors (NTC)
  • Heat Exchanger (Flushing/Cleaning)

Related codes

31.

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors the water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control PCB
32.

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing it to stop running for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • External sensor connection
36.

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
37

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing it to stop running for safety.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • Heat exchanger cleaning
37.

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £140-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board
43.

Your boiler's computer settings have become scrambled or are outside of their safe operating range, causing the system to stop working.

High Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Control Board)
  • Parameter Resistor (CSU)
61.

Your boiler is unable to start because it cannot confirm that the internal fan system is safe to move air through the flue.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
Showing 21–30 of 33
A.

Your boiler is displaying its current operational mode setting, which tells you whether the heating and hot water have been intentionally switched on or off.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check your thermostat or external controls to see if they are set to off.
  2. Access the boiler control panel and adjust the setting values if the heating or hot water is disabled when you want it on.
  3. Restart the boiler to see if it clears a temporary configuration mismatch.
E0

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a technical error and is unable to manage the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £450-£900

Parts commonly replaced

  • SU Control PCB
  • Burner Control Unit

Related codes

E1

Your boiler's electronic brain has lost power, meaning the system cannot run or communicate with the controls.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal Power Supply Unit
  • Main Control PCB
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

E2

Your boiler is failing to light the gas or cannot stay lit, which means it will stop providing heat and hot water for your property loop.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is working elsewhere (e.g. at a gas hob)
  2. Check if your gas meter has credit
  3. Press the Reset button for 2 seconds to attempt a restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionization electrode
  • Ignition transformer
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E3

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has reached a temperature that is too high, often caused by a circulation problem or a blockage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • High limit thermostat (STB)
  • Circulation pump
  • Thermal fuse

Related codes

E4

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensors that monitor water temperature, which is preventing the system from heating up safely.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E5

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a malfunction and is unable to manage the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £450-£850

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic Control Unit (PCB)
  • Control Box

Related codes

E6

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected a problem with the air flow or the way exhaust gases are being cleared from the system.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan assembly
  • Venturi tube

Related codes

E7

Your boiler has sensed that the water inside is getting too hot and has shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the error clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Main heat exchanger (cleaning/flushing)

Related codes

E8

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan used to clear out waste gases is not spinning at the correct speed.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Combustion fan
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–33 of 33
E9

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system correctly or is overheating too quickly, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed any trapped air from your radiators
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow/Return temperature sensors (NTC)
  • External system filter

Related codes

Green zone; end of green zone

Your boiler is struggling to light or keep its main flame burning steadily, which is preventing it from heating properly.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Burner gasket
red zone

Your boiler is failing to light properly because the internal pilot flame is being lost or is too weak to stay on.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Ignition electrode
  • Pilot burner assembly
  • Gas valve