Atag iC28 Fault codes & diagnostics

18 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural GasLPG 28 kW 2015-present
GC Numbers 47-310-2147-310-22
Download the Atag iC28 manualThe official installation and service manual (PDF), the document these fault codes were read from. PDF

The fault code is already on your display

Note it down before pressing reset — resetting clears the code immediately. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
2 Emergency 10 High 2 Medium 4 Low

Which version do you have?

The GC number on your boiler's data badge identifies the exact appliance and production years, as recorded in the UK Product Characteristics Database.

GC number Appliance (register name) Produced
47-310-21 iC28 2015–present

Appliance names and production years are taken from the UK Product Characteristics Database (the SAP/SEDBUK register). Where a GC number is also printed in this model's own manufacturer manual, both sources were checked to agree.

All 18 documented codes

Tap any card for details

10

Your boiler has lost communication with the weather sensor outside your home and is now running on its default safety settings.

Low Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
20

Your boiler is struggling to detect the flow of water through its system, which means it cannot safely heat your home or provide hot water.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Wiring harness
40

Your boiler is struggling to accurately read the temperature of the water returning to it, which prevents it from heating your home reliably.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
50

Your boiler is having trouble detecting the temperature of the water coming from your taps, which means it cannot heat your hot water properly.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Sensor
  • NTC Sensor wiring harness
61

Your boiler's electronic control system has lost its internal connection, meaning the main brain can no longer talk to the other components to request heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness
  • Control interface unit
78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside your heating system is either too low or too high, so it has safely shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a small silver braided hose with one or two valves underneath the boiler.
  2. Gradually open the valve(s) to let water in until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly to stop the flow of water and check if the error code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
105

Your boiler has automatically started a special air-clearing cycle because the water pressure recently dropped too low.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the automatic de-aeration program to finish its cycle.
  2. Check your system pressure gauge to ensure it is sitting between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. If the pressure is still low, top up the system using the filling loop.

Related codes

110

Your boiler has detected that it is getting dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage.

Emergency Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Heat exchanger
  • NTC temperature sensor
  • Diverter valve
111

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally, likely due to a lack of water flow or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-450

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and internal stop taps are fully open to allow water to flow.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by pressing the 'Reset' button on the control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

117

Your boiler has temporarily stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has risen above the safe limit.

Emergency DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Turn off the heating and let the system cool down completely.
  2. Locate a radiator and place a cloth and container beneath the bleed valve.
  3. Open the bleed valve slightly to let water out until the pressure gauge drops to around 1.0 to 1.5 bar, then close the valve tightly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Filling loop valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has lost some water pressure, so it is working less efficiently to prevent internal damage until you add more water to the system.

Medium DIY-safe £0-£100

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, usually a silver braided hose with one or two valves underneath your boiler.
  2. Open the valves slowly to allow mains water into the heating system while watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.
  3. Stop the flow once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.2 and 1.5 bar, and ensure both valves are firmly closed.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure gauge
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has detected that a critical safety connection inside its control panel has come loose or is missing, which prevents it from operating correctly.

High Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Link wire
  • PCB connector
  • Main PCB
129

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan responsible for moving air and removing exhaust gases inside the unit failed to start.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
133

Your boiler has failed to light the flame after several attempts and has switched itself off for safety.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame rectification probe
151

Your boiler's internal fan, which is responsible for safely venting fumes, is failing to spin at the correct speed, causing the system to stop working for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £200-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Control PCB

Related codes

154

Your boiler has detected an abnormal temperature difference between the water leaving it and the water returning, which usually indicates a circulation problem inside the system.

Medium Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Flow sensor
  • NTC thermistor

Related codes

180

This is not an error code, but merely a notification confirming that the boiler's manual testing mode has finished successfully.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required.
  2. Wait a few seconds for the display to return to the normal operating screen.
181

This code is not an error; it simply confirms that your boiler has finished its setup or testing mode and is returning to normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required
  2. Wait for the boiler to return to its normal display
  3. Ensure the boiler is heating your water as expected

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