Atag Sov. Fault codes & diagnostics

19 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural GasLPG 15-35 kW 2000-2009 Discontinued
GC Number 41-310-15

Replaced by: iS Series

Download the Atag Sov. manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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16 High 3 Low

All 19 documented codes

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10

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor that measures the temperature outside, which may cause your heating to behave unpredictably.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

20

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, meaning it cannot safely regulate heat.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators, preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £120-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main control board

Related codes

50

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that manages your hot water, which means it cannot accurately tell if the water is at the right temperature.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • T3 Hot Water Sensor
  • NTC Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

61

Your boiler has lost the ability to communicate with its internal control systems or the external thermostat, meaning it cannot receive instructions to heat your home.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Communication Module
  • Main PCBA (Control Board)
  • Wiring Harness
78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is either too low or too high, or the sensor that monitors this pressure has lost its connection.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or via the digital display.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop valves to carefully top it up to 1.5 bar.
  3. If the pressure is above 3.0 bar, bleed a radiator to release excess pressure.
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is back within the normal range (1.0 to 2.0 bar).

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

105

Your boiler is busy removing air bubbles from the pipes after the water pressure was topped up, and it will return to normal operation in about seven minutes.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait approximately 7 to 10 minutes for the automatic countdown to complete
  2. Ensure the blue filling loop taps are fully closed
  3. Check that the water pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Related codes

C 20

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, which has caused it to stop running for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main control board (PCB)

Related codes

C 40

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors water returning from your radiators, preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Water Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

C 61

Your boiler's internal computer brain has temporarily lost its ability to talk to the control sensors and requires a manual power restart.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the main electrical power switch for your boiler (usually a fused spur switch nearby).
  2. Turn the power switch to the 'Off' position and wait for 30 seconds.
  3. Turn the power switch back to 'On' to allow the system to reboot and re-establish communication.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal wiring loom
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

C 78

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating properly, which could mean the pump has stopped working or the water pressure is too low.

High DIY-safe £250-450

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on your boiler or under the sink.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop to top it up to 1.5 bar.
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the error clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

C1 05

Your boiler is currently running an automatic cycle to clear trapped air from the system, which typically occurs after it has been powered on or refilled.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait approximately 7 to 10 minutes for the automatic cycle to finish
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to help move air through the system
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped

Related codes

C1 10

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally, often due to a lack of water flow or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel after the unit has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger cleaning

Related codes

C1 11

Your boiler has sensed that the water inside has become far too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure your system water pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Reset the boiler by pressing the reset button to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

c1 18

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is critically low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath or near the boiler
  2. Slowly open the small valve handle(s) until you hear water flowing
  3. Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then turn the valves off tightly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

C1 29

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which clears exhaust fumes, is unable to start up correctly.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

C1 33

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has failed to produce a flame, meaning your heating and hot water will not work.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working to ensure gas supply
  2. Check if your gas meter has credit
  3. Press the Reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Ionisation probe
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator

Related codes

C1 51

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that removes waste gases is not spinning at the correct speed.

High Engineer only £280-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Main PCB (Control Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

C1 54

Your boiler has detected that water is heating up too quickly or flowing in the wrong direction, often because something is blocking the circulation of water through the system.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensors
  • Main Heat Exchanger (cleaning or replacement)

Related codes