Johnson Starley J32 System ET Fault codes & diagnostics

33 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural Gas 9.38 kW 1994-2005 Discontinued

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
27 High 4 Medium 2 Low

All 33 documented codes

Tap any card for details

LED Flashing

Your boiler's internal fan is failing to start or power up, which means the unit cannot safely clear exhaust gases and will refuse to ignite.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Fan Capacitor
  • Control PCB
1 2 OUTDOOR SENSOR ERROR

Your boiler is having trouble reading the temperature outside, which means it might not adjust your heating correctly as the weather changes.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
ADC LOCKOUT

Your boiler's computer brain is having trouble processing information from its internal sensors and has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Control Board)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

DHW SENSOR LOCKOUT

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors your hot water, so it has shut down that function to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Thermistor
  • DHW NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
DRIFT TEST WAITING

Your heater is temporarily pausing while it carries out a routine internal calibration check to ensure the fan is running at the correct speed.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the unit to complete the internal check
  2. Ensure there is a call for heat (thermostat turned up)
  3. Do not power off the unit while the test is in progress

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Fan assembly
  • Control PCB
E-01

Your boiler is failing to ignite, meaning it cannot create the flame needed to provide heating and hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob.
  2. Ensure your gas prepayment meter has sufficient credit.
  3. Press the Reset button on the control panel to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
E01

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has been unable to create a flame, meaning you will not have any heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a gas hob, are working correctly to ensure gas is reaching the property.
  2. Verify that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has sufficient credit.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by following the instructions in your user manual to clear the fault.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Ignition Lead
E03

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, which is a safety feature to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Ensure there are no blockages in the system by checking if any external pumps are running.
  3. Try resetting the boiler via the control panel once it has cooled down.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

EEPROM LOCKOUT

Your boiler's computer memory has encountered a software error and can no longer process instructions safely.

High DIY-safe £280-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the main power switch for the boiler (usually a fused spur nearby).
  2. Turn the power off for at least 30 seconds.
  3. Turn the power back on and wait for the boiler to complete its startup sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control PCB
  • Display Interface Module
EXHAUST SENSOR FAULT

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the safety of the exhaust gases and has shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue thermistor
  • Exhaust gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 33
F-15

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short window, causing the system to lock itself out for safety.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the electrical power supply to the boiler off at the fused spur switch.
  2. Wait for at least 20 minutes without touching any buttons to allow the internal timer to clear.
  3. Switch the power back on and see if the boiler resumes normal operation without further resets.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software lockout)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if fault persists
F15

Your boiler has stopped working because it has been manually reset too many times in a short window, suggesting an underlying fault that needs professional attention.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
F37

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the metal braided filling loop underneath or near your boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two valves on the loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
F40

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the central heating system is too low or too high for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or under the casing; it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If it is below 1.0, use the external filling loop valves to top up the system until the needle reaches the green zone.
  3. If the pressure is too high, bleed a radiator to release water and lower the pressure.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
FALSE FLAME LOCKOUT

Your boiler has detected a flame when there shouldn't be one, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame rectification probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Control board)
FAN FAULT

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that clears exhaust gases, preventing the unit from starting up for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

FLAME CIRCUIT FAILURE

Your boiler is failing to detect the flame needed to heat your home, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
FLOW THERMISTOR FAULT

Your boiler's temperature sensor is reporting an error, which means the system cannot accurately track how hot the water is and has stopped running as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £95-£170

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • PCB

Related codes

FLOW/RETURN SENSOR DRIFT ERROR

Your boiler has detected that the temperature sensors are giving inconsistent readings, which usually happens because the water isn't flowing correctly or the system is low on pressure.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check the system pressure gauge and top up with water if it is below 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC sensor
  • Return NTC sensor
  • Circulation pump
FLUE TEMPERATURE SENOR LOCKOUT

Your boiler has shut itself down as a safety precaution because it detected that the exhaust gases are becoming too hot.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Heat Exchanger cleaning
  • Main PCB
Showing 21–30 of 33
HE DHW OUTLET SENSOR

Your boiler's hot water sensor is not reading the temperature correctly, which means you may have inconsistent or no hot water.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC Thermistor
  • Sensor Connection Wiring
IGNITION LOCKOUT

Your boiler has failed to light after several attempts and has locked itself for safety, leaving you without heating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has credit.
  2. Ensure other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctly.
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to attempt a restart.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator
LOW POWER SUPPLY FROM MAINS

Your boiler is not receiving the correct amount of electricity from your home's power supply to run safely and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
LOW WATER PRESSURE

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely and effectively, causing it to shut down.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the silver filling loop (braided hose) usually found underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two valves on the hose until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
NO DHW BUT CH ON

Your boiler is successfully heating your radiators, but it is failing to send heat to your hot water tank.

Medium DIY-safe £140-£280

What to check first

  1. Check if the hot water is turned on at your external programmer or timer
  2. Ensure the cylinder thermostat (usually strapped to the water tank) is turned up to at least 60°C
  3. Locate the motorised valve near your tank and check if the manual lever is stuck

Parts commonly replaced

  • Motorised 2-port or 3-port zone valve
  • Cylinder thermostat
  • External programmer/timer
NO DISPLAY

Your boiler has lost all power, meaning it cannot operate and the control screen has gone completely blank.

High DIY-safe £150-£450

What to check first

  1. Check if your home's main electrical consumer unit has tripped
  2. Ensure the boiler's isolation switch (usually a fused spur near the unit) is turned on
  3. Check the fuse in the boiler's external isolation switch

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Internal Glass Fuse
  • Wiring Loom
OVERHEAT LOCKOUT

Your boiler has switched itself off because it became too hot, acting as a safety measure to protect the internal components.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Wait at least 15 minutes for the unit to cool down completely.
  2. Check that all internal registers and warm air vents are open and not blocked by furniture.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the control panel to see if the heater restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Fan Motor
  • Limit Switch

Related codes

REMOTE RESET LOCKOUT

Your heater has encountered a temporary electronic error and needs a manual reboot to resume operation.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the mains power switch for your heating system (usually a fused spur near the unit).
  2. Turn the power switch to the 'OFF' position and wait for 30 seconds.
  3. Switch the power back to 'ON' and check if the lockout cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Electronic Control Board
  • Reset Switch
RETURN THERMISTOR FAULT

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £95-175

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

SENSOR STUCK LOCKOUT

Your boiler has stopped running because it cannot detect a change in water temperature, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Sensor
  • Return NTC Sensor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 31–33 of 33
VALVE FEED BACK ERROR

Your boiler has detected a communication problem with the gas valve, which means it cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
WATER PRESSURE SENSOR

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is either too low or the sensor that monitors it has stopped working.

High DIY-safe £120-210

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or under the casing.
  2. If the pressure is below 1 bar, use the external filling loop valves to top the system up to 1.5 bar.
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the fault code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Expansion Vessel recharge
  • Filling Loop
WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH

Your boiler has too much water in the system, which can put unnecessary stress on the internal seals and pipework.

Medium DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver filling loop valves are fully closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a radiator key to reduce pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Reset the boiler once the correct pressure is reached

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve (PRV)