Ariston Genus 27 Fault codes & diagnostics

18 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 27 kW 1997-2007 Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-116-0147-116-0847-116-0947-116-1147-116-13

Replaced by: Genus Premium

Download the Ariston Genus 27 manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

The fault code is already on your display

Note it down before pressing reset — resetting clears the code immediately. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 17 High

Which version do you have?

The GC number on your boiler's data badge identifies the exact appliance and production years, as recorded in the UK Product Characteristics Database.

GC number Appliance (register name) Produced
41-116-01 Genus 27 RFFI System 1998–2007
47-116-11 Genus 27 BFFI Plus 1997–2002
47-116-13 Genus 30 MFFI 1999–2007

All 18 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 - IGNITION FAILURE

Your boiler is trying to start but cannot get the flame to stay lit, so it has safely shut itself down to avoid wasting fuel.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
2 - CIRCULATION FAILURE

Your boiler has detected that water is not flowing through the system correctly, so it has shut down to protect itself from overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check your pressure gauge located on the front of the boiler; if it is below 1 bar, you need to repressurise the system.
  2. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose under the boiler) and open the valves to let water in until the pressure reaches 1.5 bar.
  3. Close valves tightly and press the reset button on your boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Pressure sensor
  • Flow switch
3 - OVERHEATING

Your boiler has automatically turned itself off because the water inside it has become dangerously hot.

Emergency Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC temperature sensor
  • Central heating pump
  • Primary heat exchanger
A01

Your boiler has stopped working because it tried to light three times but could not detect a flame.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home (like a hob) are working to ensure your gas supply is on.
  2. If you have a prepaid meter, check that you have remaining credit.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel once to see if the system restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

A02

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low, meaning there isn't enough water inside the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small taps) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the taps until you hear the water flowing and watch the pressure gauge needle move.
  3. Close the taps firmly once the pressure gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

A03

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected that the water inside has become dangerously hot and is potentially overheating.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
A07

Your boiler has tried to light several times during its cycle but the flame keeps going out, causing the system to lock itself for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

E 02

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small tap or taps on the filling loop until you hear water moving.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then turn the taps off tightly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E02 026

Your boiler has detected a safety issue with the flame and has shut down to prevent damage or unsafe operation.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E02 071

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot safely confirm that the waste gases are being blown out of the flue.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

E02 078

Your boiler is failing to light properly, which means the system cannot create the flame needed to heat your home or water.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Detection electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E03

Your boiler has detected that it is dangerously overheating even though it is not currently supposed to be running.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Control Board

Related codes

E03 818

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it is venting waste gases, which prevents it from firing up for your safety.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

INSUFFICIENT WATER

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible metal hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the valves on the filling loop to allow cold mains water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure transducer
  • Expansion vessel
L.E.D. D

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure flowing through the system to heat your home safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop (a silver braided hose beneath the boiler).
  2. Slowly open the valves attached to the loop until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until it reaches 1.5 bar, then firmly close the valves.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Circulation pump
  • Pressure sensor
Overheat thermostat

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot and has automatically shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • NTC temperature sensor
  • Central heating pump
S 01

Your boiler tried to light the burner but couldn't detect a flame, so it is currently not providing heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas supply is active
  2. Check for any credit on your prepaid gas meter
  3. Turn the boiler off and on again to trigger a reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
Safety Shut-off

Your boiler's internal computer brain has detected a safety error while trying to ignite, causing the system to lock itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition electrodes

1 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.