Biasi Riva Compact 24S Fault codes & diagnostics

56 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural Gas 24 kW Discontinued

Replaced by: Biasi Riva Plus

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 47 High 2 Medium 6 Low

All 56 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Flashing LD1

Your boiler is operating normally and performing a routine check to ensure everything is working correctly.

Low DIY-safe £0

What to check first

  1. No action required
  2. Wait for the indicator to stop flashing as it completes its cycle
  3. Monitor for any future solid red or orange lights

Related codes

Flashing LD2

Your boiler has detected low water pressure or a circulation issue, preventing it from heating up to protect the system.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If pressure is low, use the filling loop underneath the boiler to top it up until the needle reaches 1.2 bar.
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open and bleed any air from the radiators using a radiator key.

Parts commonly replaced

  • CH Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Primary Flow Switch
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

LD1, LD2 Flashing

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors hot water temperature, which means your taps may not get warm.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Probe (NTC)
  • Connecting wiring harness
LD1, LD2, LD3 Flashing

Your boiler has detected a problem with the internal temperature sensor that monitors the heating water, preventing the unit from operating correctly.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • C.H. Temperature Probe (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring harness connectors

Related codes

LD2, LD3 Flashing

Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot or the sensor monitoring them has failed, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas NTC Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled)

Related codes

1 second ON / 1 second OFF

Your boiler is operating normally and is currently responding to a demand for heating or hot water.

Low DIY-safe £0

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a status indicator rather than a fault.
  2. Ensure your thermostat or timer is set to your preferred schedule.
  3. If the boiler is running but radiators are cold, check that radiator valves are open.
30c

Your boiler has detected that the water temperature has risen too high, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
75°C

Your boiler has detected that the water inside is getting too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open to ensure water can flow.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset dial to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Heat Exchanger
  • Overheat Thermostat
A short pulse every 4 seconds

Your boiler is currently on standby and is performing its normal automatic safety check to prevent the internal pipes from freezing.

Low DIY-safe £0

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is normal operation.
  2. Ensure the gas and electricity supply to the boiler remain switched on during cold weather.
  3. If you require heating or hot water, ensure your external controls or thermostat are turned up.
All operation lights OFF

Your boiler has no power and is completely unresponsive, meaning it cannot provide any heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check if the boiler's main power switch is turned on
  2. Check your home's consumer unit (fuse box) for a tripped circuit breaker
  3. Replace the fuse in the boiler's external electrical spur switch (usually a 3-amp fuse)

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Fuses
  • External Spurred Socket Fuse
Showing 11–20 of 56
C.h. operation

Your boiler is currently running in central heating mode and this light is a normal status indicator rather than a fault.

Low DIY-safe £0

What to check first

  1. Check if your thermostat or programmer is calling for heat
  2. Adjust your temperature settings if you do not want the heating on
  3. No action is required if your radiators are warming up as intended

Related codes

D.h.w. operation

Your boiler is currently providing hot water but ignoring heating demands, or it may have a sensor glitch causing it to stay in hot water mode.

Medium DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check all hot water taps are fully turned off
  2. Ensure there are no dripping taps or leaking shower heads
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • DHW Flow Switch
  • Diverter Valve Actuator
E00---684

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, which has caused it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Primary Flow Switch
  • Circulation Pump
  • Diverter Valve Membrane
E00---688

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, meaning it won't fire up to provide heating or hot water until the internal pressure sensor is triggered.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main flow switch membrane
  • Diverter valve diaphragm
  • Flow switch microswitch
E01

Your boiler has failed to ignite, which means it cannot provide heat or hot water and requires a safety reset.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on and other gas appliances are working
  2. Locate the selector switch on the front panel and turn it to the 'R' (Reset) position for 2-3 seconds
  3. Return the switch to the 'ON' position and wait for the boiler to restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition PCB
E01---204

Your boiler has detected a problem with the internal part that heats your water, often caused by a blockage or a faulty sensor, meaning you will likely have no hot water.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water Plate Heat Exchanger
  • DHW Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Diverter Valve Valve Actuator
E01---205

Your boiler is failing to heat your tap water correctly because the internal heat exchanger is likely blocked or faulty.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water Heat Exchanger
  • DHW Temperature Sensor
  • Diverter Valve Assembly
E83---013

Your boiler has shut down because a safety component has detected an internal pressure issue, likely caused by a communication error or a faulty sensor.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety pressure switch
  • Main PCB
  • Pressure sensor
E83---082

Your boiler is not detecting when you turn on a hot tap, so it isn't starting up to provide hot water.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Switch
  • Switch Membrane
  • Flow Sensor Cable
E83---086

Your boiler is having trouble switching between heating your radiators and providing hot water because of an electrical fault with an internal valve.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3-way diverter valve actuator
  • Diverter valve motor
Showing 21–30 of 56
E83---101

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system water pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Wait for the boiler to cool down and press the 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Cleaning or Replacement)
E83---121

Your boiler is struggling to manage the internal pressure changes as the water heats up, which is causing the system to shut down.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Schrader Valve
  • Flexible Hose
E83---122

Your boiler is failing to detect the flame needed to heat your water and radiators, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Detection electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

E83---126

Your boiler is failing to light the gas properly because the component responsible for creating the starting spark is faulty or worn out.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E83---127

Your boiler is struggling to light the burner because the part responsible for creating the internal spark is failing or dirty.

High Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Ignition Lead
  • Spark Generator

Related codes

E83---129

Your boiler is unable to safely control the flow of gas required to light the burner, meaning your heating and hot water will not work.

High Engineer only £180-£320

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
E83---142

Your boiler is failing to light the gas burner correctly to provide heating and hot water.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E83---178

Your boiler has detected an internal insulation issue or a heat-related fault that requires a professional safety inspection of the main central heating components.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Combustion Chamber Insulation Panels
  • Heat Exchanger Seals
  • Overheat Thermostat
E83---180

Your boiler has detected a potential structural issue or heat damage within the internal combustion chamber, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Combustion chamber rear insulation panel
  • Burner gasket
  • Heat exchanger
E83---181

Your boiler has detected a physical issue or insulation failure within the main combustion chamber, which is preventing it from heating safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Combustion chamber rear panel insulation
  • Burner gasket
  • Heat exchanger seals

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 56
E83---196

Your boiler has detected a potential safety issue or an internal communication error involving the front panel of the combustion area.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Combustion Chamber Insulation
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E83---197

Your boiler has detected a potential safety issue with the seal or position of the main burner cover, which is preventing it from firing safely.

Emergency Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Combustion chamber seal
  • Front panel insulation gasket
  • Burner assembly fasteners
ER + 14 + Reset

Your boiler has stopped working because it has detected a specific internal electrical fault or a sensor communication error that requires a manual reset.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector switch on the front control panel
  2. Turn the switch to the 'Reset' position for 5 to 10 seconds
  3. Turn the switch back to the 'On' (Heating or Hot Water) position and wait for the boiler to restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Control Knobs
ER + 25 + Reset

Your boiler has likely detected a circulation or temperature issue that has caused it to lock out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Locate the selector switch on the front panel and turn it to the 'R' position for 5 seconds, then back to the on position.
  2. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open to allow water to flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Primary Heat Exchanger
  • Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
ER + 69

Your boiler has detected an internal communication failure between the control board and the display, meaning it cannot process commands correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Interconnecting Wiring Harness
ER 01 + Reset

Your boiler has failed to light the flame or has lost its flame during operation, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob
  2. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds
  3. Ensure the condensate pipe (outside white plastic pipe) isn't frozen if it is winter

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
ER 02 + Reset

Your boiler has likely overheated, causing its safety system to shut it down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned off.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (between 1.0 and 1.5 bar).
  3. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for 5 seconds to restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Temperature NTC Sensor
ER 03 + Reset

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it is venting waste gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan
  • Flue venturi
ER 10 + reset

Your boiler has detected low water pressure in the system, which is preventing it from firing up to provide heat or hot water.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (the flexible silver hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two small valves on the hose until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Turn the selector switch to 'Reset' for a few seconds to clear the fault code.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel recharge
Fan doesn't turn

Your boiler is unable to start up or heat your water because the internal fan that clears away exhaust gases isn't spinning.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB
Showing 41–50 of 56
Fan turns

Your boiler's fan is running, but the system is failing to spark the burner, meaning you will have no heating or hot water until it is repaired.

High Engineer only £140-£320

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
  • PCB
Faulty air pressure switch

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot confirm that the fan is safely clearing waste gases from the system.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Venturi tube
  • Fan assembly
Faulty primary circuit

Your boiler has lost water pressure or the water isn't moving through the system properly, which has triggered a safety shutdown to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is low, use the filling loop valves underneath the boiler to top it up.
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and lockdowns are open to allow water to flow.
  4. Restart the boiler once the correct pressure is reached.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Primary Pressure Switch
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
Frost protect operation

Your boiler has sensed very cold temperatures and is running its internal pump or burner to prevent its pipes from freezing.

Low DIY-safe £0

What to check first

  1. Check that your electricity and gas supplies are turned on so the boiler can finish its cycle.
  2. Ensure any visible condensate pipes leading outside are not frozen or blocked.
  3. Wait for the boiler to finish the cycle; the light should turn off once the water reaches a safe temperature.
Lack of burner ignition

Your boiler is failing to light the gas flame required to heat your water and radiators.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, check that you have sufficient credit
  3. Press and hold the reset button for at least two seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
LD1

Your boiler has failed to light the gas or cannot detect the flame once it has started.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on and other gas appliances are working
  2. Press and hold the 'R' reset button for 2 to 3 seconds then release
  3. Ensure there is enough credit on your prepaid gas meter if applicable

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

LD2

Your boiler has likely overheated or sensed an internal temperature error, causing it to stop running for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check if the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Turn the control knob to the 'Reset' position for 5 seconds and then back to 'On'

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Pump

Related codes

LD3

Your boiler has stopped working and locked itself for safety because it failed to light or stay lit.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas credit has run out or if other gas appliances in your home are working.
  2. Locate the reset knob on the front panel and turn it to the 'R' position for a few seconds.
  3. Wait for the boiler to attempt to restart; if the red light persists, do not keep resetting it.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

LD3 ON

Your boiler has stopped working because it failed to light or detected a safety issue, causing it to shut down for protection.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has credit
  2. Ensure that any external condensate drain pipes are not frozen or blocked
  3. Press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds to try and restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Gas Valve
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Li

Your boiler has failed to ignite after several attempts, meaning it cannot produce heat or hot water.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working to ensure gas supply is active.
  2. Verify that your prepaid gas meter has credit, if applicable.
  3. Turn the control knob to the 'R' position for a few seconds to reset the boiler.
  4. If the boiler was recently serviced, ensure the gas isolation valve under the boiler is fully open.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition PCB
Showing 51–56 of 56
Lock-out signal lamp OFF

Your boiler is failing to start up for central heating even though no warning lights are showing, meaning the ignition sequence is failing at various stages.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Main Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Diverter Valve Sensor
Lock-out signal lamp red

Your boiler has failed to light the burner after several attempts and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Ensure any other gas appliances in the home are working correctly
  3. Press and hold the reset button for at least two seconds
  4. Check if the system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

LP

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low, which is preventing it from firing up to keep you safe.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop valves underneath the boiler
  2. Slowly open both taps until you hear water entering the system
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
Normally operating boiler

Your boiler is currently working as it should and is simply communicating that it is in normal operating mode for the season you have selected.

Low DIY-safe £0

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this light sequence indicates normal operation.
  2. Ensure your thermostat is set to the desired temperature.
  3. Ensure your timer or programmer is set to 'ON'.
Safety thermostat lockout

Your boiler has shut down because it reached an internal temperature that is too high, often caused by a circulation issue or a lack of water flow.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open to ensure water can flow through the system.
  2. Verify that the boiler pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar; top up using the filling loop if it is too low.
  3. Press the reset button on the front control panel to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger