Common problems guide

The most common Main Ecoinstaller 2 problems

The faults most likely to send a Main Ecoinstaller 2 into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
15 documented codes
6 most common
4 DIY-safe checks
2 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
E119 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (a silver flexi-hose with valves) underneath the boiler or nearby pipework.Open the valves slowly to allow mains water into the system while watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.Stop filling once the needle reaches 1.5 bar on the gauge and ensure both valves are firmly closed.

Est. cost
£80-150
Parts
Pressure Relief Valve, Pressure Sensor, Expansion Vessel
Full guide for E119
02
24 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the flame or the internal drainage pipe is blocked.

What to try first

Check if the white plastic pipe underneath the boiler is frozen or blockedThaw any frozen external pipes with warm (not boiling) water or a heat padLocate your gas meter to ensure the gas supply is turned onPress and hold the Reset button for five seconds

Est. cost
£80-250
Parts
Flame Sensing Electrode, Condensate Trap, Gas Valve
Full guide for 24
03
25 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has effectively switched itself off because it has detected it is getting too hot, likely due to a circulation or blockage issue.

What to try first

Check that your home's radiator valves are fully open.Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.Attempt to reset the boiler using the selector switch.

Est. cost
£120-£350
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump, External Heating Filter
Full guide for 25
04
27 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low or the pump that circulates water around your home is struggling to move.

What to try first

Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; if it is below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop handles to top it up to 1.5 bar.Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to flow.Restart the boiler once the pressure is restored.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Circulating Pump, Expansion Vessel recharge, Water Pressure Switch
Full guide for 27
05
E20 High Engineer

Your boiler has lost the ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water circulating through your radiators, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent overheating.

Est. cost
£120-220
Parts
Central Heating NTC Sensor, Wiring harness
Full guide for E20
06
E28 High Engineer

Your boiler's computer module has been identified as the wrong type for your specific heating system, preventing it from operating correctly.

Est. cost
£250-450
Parts
Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full guide for E28

on the Main Ecoinstaller 2

Pressure Relief ValvePressure SensorExpansion VesselFlame Sensing ElectrodeCondensate TrapGas Valve

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Main shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 15-code list for the Main Ecoinstaller 2