Atag Q 25CR Fault codes & diagnostics

72 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 25 kW 2013-2018 Discontinued

Replaced by: iC Economiser

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 49 High 9 Medium 13 Low

All 72 documented codes

Tap any card for details

FILL (flashing)

Your boiler's water pressure has dropped too low, so it needs you to top it up using the external filling loop before it can work at full capacity.

Medium DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible metal hose) connected between two pipes under your boiler.
  2. Open the valves on both ends of the hose slowly to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the boiler until it reaches 1.5 bar, then turn the valves off tightly.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
10

Your boiler has lost communication with the weather sensor outside your home and is now running on its default safety settings.

Low Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
20

Your boiler is struggling to detect the flow of water through its system, which means it cannot safely heat your home or provide hot water.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Wiring harness
40

Your boiler is struggling to accurately read the temperature of the water returning to it, which prevents it from heating your home reliably.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
50

Your boiler is having trouble detecting the temperature of the water coming from your taps, which means it cannot heat your hot water properly.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Sensor
  • NTC Sensor wiring harness
61

Your boiler's electronic control system has lost its internal connection, meaning the main brain can no longer talk to the other components to request heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness
  • Control interface unit
78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside your heating system is either too low or too high, so it has safely shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a small silver braided hose with one or two valves underneath the boiler.
  2. Gradually open the valve(s) to let water in until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly to stop the flow of water and check if the error code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
105

Your boiler has detected low water pressure and is automatically running a seven-minute process to remove trapped air from the system before it resumes normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait 7 minutes for the automatic de-aeration program to complete.
  2. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler once the program has finished.
  3. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, use the filling loop underneath the boiler to Top up the system to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
110

Your boiler has detected that it is getting dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage.

Emergency Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Heat exchanger
  • NTC temperature sensor
  • Diverter valve
117

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has become too high.

High DIY-safe £80-120

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator with a bleed valve and a small key.
  2. Place a cloth or small container under the valve to catch water.
  3. Slowly open the valve to let a little water out until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler drops to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 72
118

Your boiler has lost some water pressure, so it is working less efficiently to prevent internal damage until you add more water to the system.

Medium DIY-safe £0-£100

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, usually a silver braided hose with one or two valves underneath your boiler.
  2. Open the valves slowly to allow mains water into the heating system while watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.
  3. Stop the flow once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.2 and 1.5 bar, and ensure both valves are firmly closed.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure gauge
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has detected that a critical safety connection inside its control panel has come loose or is missing, which prevents it from operating correctly.

High Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Link wire
  • PCB connector
  • Main PCB
129

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan responsible for moving air and removing exhaust gases inside the unit failed to start.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
133

Your boiler has failed to light the flame after several attempts and has switched itself off for safety.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame rectification probe
151

Your boiler's internal fan, which is responsible for safely venting fumes, is failing to spin at the correct speed, causing the system to stop working for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £200-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Control PCB

Related codes

154

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot move water through the system effectively, likely due to a circulation problem or a blockage.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Diverter valve
  • System filter

Related codes

180

This is not an error code, but merely a notification confirming that the boiler's manual testing mode has finished successfully.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required.
  2. Wait a few seconds for the display to return to the normal operating screen.
181

This code is not an error; it simply confirms that your boiler has finished its setup or testing mode and is returning to normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required
  2. Wait for the boiler to return to its normal display
  3. Ensure the boiler is heating your water as expected
A0

Your boiler is struggling to accurately read or control the temperature of the water flowing through your heating system.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • NTC sensor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 72
A1

Your boiler is struggling because the temperature of the water returning to it from your radiators is not what it expects, which is causing it to pause operations to protect itself.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return water sensor
  • Pump
  • Central heating system filter

Related codes

A2

Your boiler has detected that the water it is trying to heat is reaching a dangerously high temperature, so it has shut itself off to stay safe.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC temperature sensor
  • Diverter valve
  • Primary heat exchanger

Related codes

A4

Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases leaving the system are running hotter than they should be.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Heat exchanger
  • Main PCB
A5

Your boiler has lost communication with the weather sensor installed outside your home, so it is using a standard indoor setting instead.

Low Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outside temperature sensor
  • Wiring loom
A6

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside the system is too low for it to operate safely and efficiently.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a flexible silver hose connected to the underside of the boiler.
  2. Open the small valve or tap attached to the loop to allow mains water to enter the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  4. Close the valve firmly and ensure the flexible hose is disconnected if required.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

A9

Your boiler is having difficulty spinning the internal fan that clears out exhaust gases, which is preventing it from firing up safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • PCB
Block 01

Your boiler has detected that an external safety device, such as a heat sensor or chimney flue thermostat, has triggered a shutdown to prevent overheating or unsafe operation.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue safety thermostat
  • External temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
Block 11

Your boiler has temporarily stopped heating your home because the water is not circulating fast enough to transfer heat away, likely due to a blockage in your pipes or radiators.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • System filter
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

Block 12

Your boiler has temporarily stopped heating your hot water because the temperature difference between the water leaving and returning to the boiler is too high, often caused by a blockage or flow issue.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Plate-to-plate heat exchanger
  • Diverter valve
  • Central heating pump

Related codes

Block 60

Your boiler's internal settings have been incorrectly configured, preventing it from safely regulating its power output.

High Engineer only £100-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main circuit board (PCB)
Showing 31–40 of 72
Block 67

Your boiler has detected an unusual temperature difference inside the system while the heating is turned off, so it has paused its operation to prevent any potential damage.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

Block 80

Your boiler has automatically paused itself because the waste gases exiting the flue are dangerously hot, likely indicating an internal system blockage or a failed sensor.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Primary heat exchanger
  • Pump

Related codes

Block 81

Your boiler has detected that a critical safety sensor monitoring exhaust gases has become unplugged or disconnected, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent operation.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Block 82

Your boiler has detected a faulty sensor reading in the exhaust system and has safely shut itself down to prevent it from running incorrectly.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Block 85

Your boiler is temporarily pausing because it cannot detect enough water moving through the system and is attempting to clear any trapped air bubbles automatically.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow switch
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

c 1 05

Your boiler is currently running an automated air-removal cycle to clear trapped air from the system, which is a normal process after maintenance or a power restart.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the cycle to complete, which typically takes between 10 to 20 minutes.
  2. Ensure your heating and hot water are still turned off at your thermostat while the process finishes.
  3. If the boiler does not resume normal operation after 30 minutes, switch the power off and back on at the fused spur.
C 20

Your boiler is failing to register the flow of water because of a faulty connection or sensor, meaning it cannot safely heat your home or water.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Wiring harness
C 40

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of the water coming back into the system, so it has safely shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
C 61

Your boiler's electronic parts have lost their connection to each other and have stopped working entirely to keep your home safe.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
C 78

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside the system is either too low or the internal pump responsible for moving that water is not working correctly.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose under the boiler).
  2. Open the valves to fill the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valves tightly and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
Showing 41–50 of 72
C1 10

Your boiler has detected that it is running much hotter than it should be and has automatically switched itself off to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Heat exchanger
  • System filter
  • Temperature sensor (NTC)

Related codes

C1 11

Your boiler has detected that it is running much hotter than it should be and has switched itself off to prevent internal damage.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Diverter valve
  • Heat exchanger thermistor
c1 17

Your boiler has automatically shut down because the water pressure inside the system has become too high.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator in your home that is easily accessible.
  2. Place a cloth or small container under the radiator bleed valve.
  3. Slowly open the valve to release water until the pressure gauge on the boiler shows between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then securely close the valve.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

c1 18

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low, which is causing it to work less efficiently.

Medium DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop or internal filling key under the boiler
  2. Slowly open the valve to allow fresh mains water into the system
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the front panel and close the valve firmly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

C1 29

Your boiler's internal air propulsion system has failed to activate, which prevents the unit from starting safely.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB

Related codes

C1 33

Your boiler has failed to start up or stay alight after several attempts to ignite the burner.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ionisation probe
  • PCB
C1 51

Your boiler's air circulation system isn't working correctly, which prevents the unit from starting safely so it has shut down to protect your home.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB
c1 54

Your boiler has switched itself off because it cannot move water around the system effectively, likely due to a blockage or a pump issue.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • System filter
  • Diverter valve
COdE

Your boiler is asking for a secure service password, which usually appears during routine maintenance or setup and indicates it is currently locked from standard operation.

Low Engineer only £80-120
E01

Your boiler has failed to ignite the flame needed to produce heat or hot water, usually because the gas supply is interrupted or the ignition system is blocked.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame rectification probe

Related codes

Showing 51–60 of 72
E03

Your boiler has detected that the water inside the heating system is not reaching or maintaining the correct temperature, leading the unit to stop operating to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • NTC sensor
  • Main printed circuit board

Related codes

E04

Your boiler has detected an issue with the temperature of the water returning to the unit, suggesting the system is struggling to circulate water correctly or a sensor is misreading.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • System filter

Related codes

E05

Your boiler is temporarily limiting its power output because it is struggling to transfer heat effectively into your home's heating system.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • System filter
  • Heat exchanger

Related codes

E06

Your boiler is struggling to pump water around your heating system effectively, which is preventing it from working as it should.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Pump cable

Related codes

Error 00

Your boiler is struggling to light correctly or stay lit, which means it will not be able to provide heating or hot water until the issue is resolved.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame rectification probe
  • Gas valve

Related codes

Error 01

Your boiler has detected an electrical short-circuit in its internal wiring, which has triggered an automatic safety shutdown to prevent further damage.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness
  • Sensor assembly

Related codes

Error 02

Your boiler is trying to start but cannot detect a flame, so it has safely shut down to prevent gas from building up.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition transformer

Related codes

Error 04

Your boiler has detected a power issue or a software hiccup which has caused it to stop working for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Error 05

Your boiler is struggling to calibrate itself correctly, which is preventing it from firing up reliably.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Control board (PCB)
  • Venturi
Showing 61–70 of 72
Error 12

Your boiler has stopped working because a small protective fuse that powers the internal control system has blown.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3A Fuse
  • Control PCB
  • Internal wiring loom
Error 18

Your boiler has detected that the water inside the system has become dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage or overheating.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • NTC Sensor
  • Heat exchanger
Error 19

Your boiler has shut down because the water returning from your radiators is too hot, which suggests an issue with how the water is flowing or being measured inside the system.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor
  • Central heating pump
  • System filter

Related codes

Error 28

Your boiler's fan is failing to communicate with the control board, meaning the system cannot safely vent exhaust gases and has shut down to prevent potential danger.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB
Error 69

Your boiler's electronic control panel is experiencing a communication error, meaning it cannot properly display information or talk to the main computer.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Display interface board
  • Main control unit (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
Error 80

Your boiler has detected that the exhaust gases leaving your home are becoming dangerously hot and has shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas sensor
  • Heat exchanger
  • Main circuit board
FILL

Your boiler has automatically stopped working because the water pressure inside your heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the two small valves (filling loop) connected to the pipework underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valves to allow mains water into the system while watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler.
  3. Once the needle reaches the green zone (typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar), tightly close both valves.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

HIGH

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside your heating system is too high and has safely shut itself down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator in your home, preferably one upstairs.
  2. Using a radiator bleed key, open the bleed valve slightly to let a small amount of water out into a container.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of your boiler until it drops back into the green zone (typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar), then tightly close the radiator bleed valve.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
P x.x

Your boiler is simply displaying its current water pressure rather than indicating a fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front display against the manufacturer's recommended range (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  2. If the pressure is within the green zone, no action is required.
  3. If it is outside the recommended range, use the external filling loop to adjust the water pressure accordingly.
Showing 71–72 of 72
STOP

Your boiler is pausing because the water pressure has reached the correct level and it is ready to return to normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check the boiler display to see if it automatically clears after a few moments
  2. Ensure the filling loop valves are fully closed so no more water enters the system
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset button if it does not resume normal operation automatically