Ideal Compact HE Fault codes & diagnostics

33 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24 kW 2006-2010 Discontinued

Replaced by: Logic Combi

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31 High 2 Low

All 33 documented codes

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C0

Your boiler has failed to recognize its internal digital identity card, which means the main computer doesn't know how to operate the system safely.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Boiler Chip Card (BCC)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

C2

Your boiler has developed a communication problem with its internal memory chip, meaning it cannot process the instructions needed to run properly.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Boiler Chip Card (BCC)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F1

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible silver hose) underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open both taps on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps when it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

F2

Your boiler has lit correctly but the flame has gone out unexpectedly, meaning the system has shut down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas pre-payment meter (if you have one) has credit.
  2. Verify that other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property.
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the mode knob to 'reset' and then back to the original setting.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F2, FN or LN

Your boiler is failing to stay lit or cannot detect its own flame, meaning it has shut down for safety and will not provide heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working to ensure gas supply is active.
  2. If it is freezing outside, check if the plastic condensate pipe leading outdoors is frozen and thaw it with warm water.
  3. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler once to see if the system restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F3

Your boiler has detected an issue with the electrical fan, which is preventing it from safely clearing waste gases so it has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

F4

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Connecting lead/wiring harness

Related codes

F5

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators, preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F6

Your boiler is having trouble readng the temperature outside, which means it cannot adjust its heating settings automatically to match the weather.

Low DIY-safe £90-160

What to check first

  1. Check the outside sensor for any obvious signs of damage or loose wiring
  2. Turn the boiler off and back on again at the fused spur switch to reset the electronics
  3. If the fault persists, contact a professional as the internal wiring may need testing

Parts commonly replaced

  • External weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

F7

Your boiler has stopped working because it isn't receiving enough electrical power from the mains supply to run safely.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • External Voltage Regulator
Showing 11–20 of 33
F9

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been programmed correctly and doesn't know how to run the system.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Plug

Related codes

F9, L9, F8 or L8

Your boiler's internal computer is having trouble communicating or hasn't been set up correctly, meaning the unit cannot safely manage its heating functions.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

FA

Your boiler has detected that the water is flowing in the wrong direction through the pipes or the temperature sensors have been installed backwards.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Pump

Related codes

FD

Your boiler is not detecting water moving through the system, which is preventing it from heating up safely.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's main stop tap and all boiler isolation valves are fully open.
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar; top up using the filling loop if it is too low.
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking water flow.
  4. Restart the boiler by pressing the reset button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow thermistor
  • Water pressure switch

Related codes

Flow return reversed

Your boiler has detected that the temperature sensors are reading values in the wrong order, suggesting water may be moving the wrong way or a sensor has become loose.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor
  • Return thermistor
  • Thermistor clip

Related codes

Flow/Return reversed

Your boiler has detected that heat is moving through the pipes in the wrong direction or the sensors that measure temperature are giving confusing readings.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Return thermistor (NTC sensor)

Related codes

FU

Your boiler has detected that the water is getting too hot too quickly, usually because it cannot circulate through your pipes and radiators properly.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that the blue and red lever valves underneath the boiler are fully turned to the open position
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned up to a high setting
  3. Check that the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Ignition lockout

Your boiler has tried to light several times but failed, so it has shut down for safety purposes to prevent unburnt gas from building up.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check other gas appliances, like a hob, to ensure gas is reaching your home.
  2. Verify that your gas meter has credit if you use a prepaid meter.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the boiler once to clear the fault.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

L1

Your boiler has shut down because it has become too hot or there is not enough water moving through the system to keep it cool.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button once the boiler has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Thermistor (temperature sensor)
  • Heat exchanger

Related codes

L2

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot start safely, so it has locked itself out to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas prepayment meter has credit and that the gas emergency control valve is open.
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctly.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the boiler control panel for two seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 33
L4 or F4

Your boiler has sensed a temperature sensor issue or a flow problem, causing it to shut down for safety to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Thermistor
  • Return Thermistor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

L5

Your boiler has been manually reset too many times in a short period and has temporarily locked itself out to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the power to the boiler off at the fused spur switch
  2. Wait for at least 5 minutes to allow the internal timer to clear
  3. Turn the power back on and see if the boiler resumes normal operation

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Spark Generator

Related codes

L5 or F5

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water coming back into the unit, causing it to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

L6

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame even though it isn't supposed to be running, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the control panel.
  2. Check if the condensate pipe (outside white plastic pipe) is frozen and defrost it with warm water if necessary.
  3. Ensure there are no signs of water leaking onto the boiler from above.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

LC

Your boiler has likely experienced a temporary communication error and simply needs to be restarted.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Switch the electricity supply to the boiler off at the wall or fuse spur.
  2. Wait approximately 30 seconds for the system to fully power down.
  3. Switch the electricity back on and wait for the boiler to complete its start-up sequence.

Related codes

Low mains voltage

Your boiler has detected that the incoming electrical supply is too weak or unstable to run the internal components safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Low water pressure

Your boiler has lost the water pressure it needs to push heat around your home, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the flexible silver filling loop underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the small taps on the filling loop slowly until you hear water moving.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps once it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

Overheat lockout

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has reached too high a temperature, usually due to a lack of water or a blockage in the system.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and refill the system to 1.0 bar if it is too low
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler service valves are fully open
  4. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pumping head
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Heat exchanger (flushed or replaced)

Related codes

Pump rotor blocked

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal pump that moves water around your pipes is stuck or seized.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Pump head

Related codes

Thermal fuse lockout

Your boiler has overheated because a safety switch has tripped to protect the internal components, and it now needs to be manually restarted.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset knob or button on the front control panel.
  2. Turn the reset knob to the 'RESET' position and hold for 2 seconds, then release.
  3. Wait for the boiler to run through its startup sequence to see if heat is restored.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Reset only)
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Thermistor

Related codes

Showing 31–33 of 33
Too many resets

Your boiler has locked itself out because the reset button was pressed too many times in a short period while trying to clear another fault.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn off the power supply to the boiler at the fused spur switch
  2. Wait for at least 5 minutes to allow the internal timer to clear
  3. Turn the power back on and see if the boiler identifies the original fault code

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts required for this specific code
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if timer fails to reset

Related codes

Too many restarts

Your boiler is repeatedly trying and failing to ignite, causing it to lock itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Turn the electrical power to the boiler off and back on again
  2. Check that your gas pre-payment meter (if applicable) has credit
  3. Ensure all internal gas valves are fully open

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

Water pressure

Your boiler has lost water pressure and needs to be topped up to work properly.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose underneath the boiler).
  2. Open the filling valves slowly until you hear water moving and the pressure gauge reaches 1.0 to 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both valves tightly and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes