Vaillant ecoMAX Fault codes & diagnostics

21 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 2000-2006 Discontinued

Replaced by: ecoTEC

Download the Vaillant ecoMAX manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
20 High 1 Medium

All 21 documented codes

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F.0

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Thermistor
  • Connecting Cable Harness

Related codes

F.1

Your boiler has detected a problem with the temperature sensor that monitors the water returning from your radiators, causing it to stop heating for safety.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • NTC wiring harness

Related codes

F.10

Your boiler has stopped working because it has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.11

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the sensor that monitors water returning from your radiators, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Return Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring harness / Connector
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.13

Your boiler has lost its connection to the hot water tank sensor, meaning it cannot tell how hot your water is and may stop providing it.

Medium Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water tank NTC sensor
  • Wiring loom harness

Related codes

F.20

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that the internal temperature has become too hot and reached a dangerous level.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  3. Press the reset button (flame symbol with a cross) once to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat (Limit Switch)
  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

F.22

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure inside the system to operate safely, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  2. Locate the external filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) under or near the boiler.
  3. Slowly open both valves on the loop until you hear water entering and the gauge reaches 1.5 bar, then close them tightly.
  4. Press the reset button (indicated by a flame with a line through it) to restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Expansion Vessel Re-charge
  • Pressure Sensor

Related codes

F.23

Your boiler has stopped working because the water isn't circulating properly between the pipes, causing a sudden and unsafe temperature gap.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Try bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensors
  • Pump Lead/Cable

Related codes

F.24

Your boiler is heating up much too fast because there isn't enough water moving through the system to carry the heat away.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and top up the water to between 1 and 1.5 bar using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Heat exchanger (if scaled up)

Related codes

F.25

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low or a safety switch has disconnected, causing the system to shut down for protection.

High DIY-safe £100-220

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the needle is below 1.0 bar, locate the filling loop (braided silver hose) underneath or near the boiler
  3. Slowly open the tap(s) on the filling loop to add water until the pressure reaches 1.5 bar
  4. Close the taps tightly and press the 'Reset' button (flame symbol with a cross over it)

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Filling loop valve
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 21
F.27

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fuel supply or the internal control system, causing it to shut down for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.28

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has been unable to establish a flame, meaning you have no heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property.
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, check that you have sufficient credit.
  3. Press the Reset button (indicated by a flame with a cross through it) for one second to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Ignition electrode
  • Spark lead
  • PCB

Related codes

F.29

Your boiler was working but the flame has unexpectedly gone out, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances like your hob are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Check your prehistoric or smart gas meter to ensure you haven't run out of credit
  3. Press the reset button (represented by a flame with a line through it) for one second to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

F.32

Your boiler’s air fan is not spinning at the correct speed to safely push exhaust fumes out of the flue, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £280-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.60

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault connected to the component that controls the gas flow, meaning it cannot safely light the burner.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Loom
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.61

Your boiler is struggling to talk to the gas valve, which means it cannot safely light the flame to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.62

Your boiler has detected that the gas valve is not closing as quickly as it should, preventing the unit from shutting down safely and causing it to lock out.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

F.63

Your boiler's internal computer brain has suffered a memory error and can no longer process the data it needs to run safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.64

Your boiler has detected a communication error between its internal sensors and the main control board, preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.65

Your boiler's internal control board has become too hot to operate safely and has shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Display PCB

Related codes

Showing 21–21 of 21
F.67

Your boiler's electronic control board is having trouble communicating with the flame sensor, meaning the system cannot safely confirm if the burner is lit.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

69 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.

d.0 Diagnostic Your boiler is limiting its maximum output to match your heating needs, which is a normal setting adjustment rather than a breakdown. d.1 Diagnostic Your boiler is briefly keeping the internal pump running after the heating has switched off to cool down the internal components. d.2 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently taking a temporary break from heating after successfully reaching its target temperature to prevent it from turning on and off too frequently. d.5 Diagnostic Your boiler is simply displaying the current temperature setting for your heating water and is not experiencing a fault. d.7 Diagnostic Your boiler is simply reporting the current temperature setting selected for its internal hot water storage feature. d.8 Diagnostic Your boiler is receiving a signal from your thermostat or internal timer requesting heat, so it is simply running as instructed. d.10 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to detect or operate the water pump responsible for moving heat around your home. d.11 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected that the external water pump responsible for moving heat around your home is not communicating or responding as expected. d.13 Diagnostic Your boiler is having difficulty communicating with an additional external water pump that helps move heat around your home. d.14 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to circulate water effectively because the internal pump is not running at the correct speed. d.16 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to push heated water around your radiators because an external pump is not responding correctly. d.22 Diagnostic Your boiler is simply showing that it has received a request to provide hot water to your taps or shower. d.23 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently set to a mode that limits or disables the central heating, meaning it will likely only provide hot water. d.24 Diagnostic Your boiler's fan is failing to reach the required speed to safely vent gases, causing the system to stop working. d.25 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently running a routine internal test to ensure your hot water starts instantly when you turn on the tap. d.34 Diagnostic This code is simply an information display showing the current speed the internal fan is running at. d.35 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to switch between heating your radiators and heating your hot water taps, which may cause you to lose one or both services. d.40 Diagnostic This code is simply displaying the current temperature of the water flowing through your heating system and is not a fault or a cause for concern. d.41 Diagnostic Your boiler is simply displaying a live measurement of how warm the water is when it returns from your radiators, rather than showing a fault. d.44 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to confirm that the burner is successfully lit, preventing it from heating your home safely. d.46 Diagnostic Your boiler has lost the signal from its external weather sensor, so it is currently heating your home based on internal settings rather than the outside temperature. d.47 Diagnostic Your boiler is struggling to read the temperature from the sensor installed outside your home, so it is using a standard backup setting instead. d.60 Diagnostic Your boiler has detected that it has shut itself down due to overheating several times, suggesting it is struggling to circulate water effectively. d.61 Diagnostic Your boiler has recorded several failures that caused it to shut down for safety reasons, indicating a persistent underlying fault that requires professional diagnosis. d.67 Diagnostic Your boiler is perfectly fine and is simply taking a short, programmed break to prevent wear and tear before it switches back on. d.68 Diagnostic Your boiler has failed to initialise its startup sequence correctly, meaning it is currently unable to fire up to provide heating or hot water. d.69 Diagnostic Your boiler failed to light on its second attempt, which means it has stopped trying to start as a safety precaution. d.71 Diagnostic Your boiler has reached its maximum allowed internal temperature limit for the heating system to protect the pipework and components. d.72 Diagnostic Your boiler's pump is running longer than it should to cool down the system after heating water, usually because a sensor has detected a temperature imbalance. d.73 Diagnostic Your boiler's pre-heat function for hot water isn't reaching the temperature it expects, which may lead to slower or inconsistent hot water delivery. d.80 Diagnostic This code is simply an information display showing the total number of hours your boiler has been running since it was installed, rather than indicating a fault. d.81 Diagnostic This code is not an actual fault; it is simply an information display showing the total number of hours your boiler has spent providing hot water. d.82 Diagnostic This code is simply an information display showing the total number of times your boiler has started up since it was installed, rather than indicating a fault. d.83 Diagnostic This code is simply an information display showing how many times your hot water system has started up, rather than an active error or fault. P.1 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic test at full power and is not in a normal operational mode. P.2 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently running a brief automatic testing sequence to verify its performance and is not indicating a fault. P.5 Diagnostic Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic safety test to ensure its emergency shut-off mechanism is working correctly, which is a normal automated process. S.0 Status Your boiler is currently in standby mode because it is not receiving a signal from your thermostat or timer to provide heat. S.1 Status Your boiler is currently performing a normal startup routine and the water pump is simply pushing heat around your radiators. S.2 Status Your boiler is currently preparing to ignite and is circulating water through the system, which is a normal part of the startup process. S.3 Status Your boiler is currently trying to light its flame to start heating your home. S.4 Status Your boiler is operating normally and is currently firing up to provide heat to your radiators. S.5 Status Your boiler is currently idle because it is waiting for the heating system to cool down before it can restart. S.6 Status Your boiler is currently running its internal fan to clear out waste gases after a heating cycle, which is a normal part of the shutdown process. S.7 Status Your boiler is currently cooling itself down after the heating has been turned off, which is a normal part of its automatic shutdown procedure. S.8 Status Your boiler is currently taking a short mandatory rest period after being active to prevent it from overheating or working too hard. S.10 Status Your boiler is simply letting you know that it is currently working to heat up water for your taps or shower. S.11 Status Your boiler is currently performing a standard safety check before ignition, where it runs the internal fan to clear any leftover gases. S.13 Status Your boiler is currently trying to light its flame, but it hasn't succeeded yet. S.14 Status Your boiler is simply notifying you that the burner has successfully lit and is currently operating to heat your water or radiators. S.15 Status Your boiler is currently performing a standard internal check of its mechanical systems and is not experiencing a fault. S.16 Status Your boiler is currently running its fan to clear out any leftover gases after a heating cycle, which is a normal part of the shutdown process. S.17 Status Your boiler is currently running the internal water pump to safely move leftover heat away from the burner after you have finished using your hot water or heating. S.20 Status Your boiler is currently performing a routine check or heating up its internal store of hot water, which is a normal part of its operation. S.21 Status Your boiler is simply running its internal extraction fan to prepare for ignition or to clear gases, which is a normal part of its operating cycle. S.23 Status Your boiler is currently trying to light the flame to start heating your water, but it is taking longer than expected to establish. S.24 Status Your boiler is operating normally and has successfully ignited the flame to begin heating your home or water. S.25 Status Your boiler is currently running through a routine safety check or purge cycle before igniting, which is a normal part of its operation. S.26 Status Your boiler is correctly clearing out leftover gases to ensure it is safe before it shuts down or prepares for the next cycle. S.27 Status Your boiler is currently running its pump to safely move heat away from the system, which is a normal part of the cooling-down process. S.28 Status Your boiler is perfectly fine and is simply taking a short, programmed break to prevent overheating before it starts warming your home again. S.30 Status Your boiler is currently in standby mode because it is not receiving a signal from your thermostat or timer to turn the heating on. S.32 Status Your boiler has temporarily paused its heating cycle because it detected an irregularity in the air flow system and is waiting for everything to reset itself. S.34 Status Your boiler is temporarily protecting itself from freezing by circulating water, and this is a normal automated safety process rather than a fault. S.36 Status Your boiler is currently in standby mode because it has not received a signal from your thermostat to turn on the heating. S.37 Status Your boiler is momentarily pausing its internal air-flow system to ensure it is safe to start the combustion process. S.39 Status Your boiler has detected that the water running through your underfloor heating loop is getting too hot, so it has automatically paused to prevent any damage to your flooring. S.53 Status Your boiler has temporarily stopped because it cannot move water around your heating system fast enough, likely due to a lack of water pressure or a blockage. S.54 Status Your boiler has temporarily stopped itself because it has detected an issue with the water pressure or flow, and it is now waiting for a short period before it attempts to start again.